BLF Special Light by Sofirn Named SP70

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mmalive
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Count me in for group buy.

JasonWW
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mmalive wrote:
Count me in for group buy.

We are not doing that yet.

If a group buy happens, that info will be linked here so people know.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

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teacher
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I like ‘Sofirn SP70’ too. If BLF ‘can be’ added fine. But the ‘Sofirn’ name should be on it too.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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Agro
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teacher wrote:
Satan@103TFS wrote:
Lot of people can’t do proper dedoming like some of skill moder here it is hit or miss (that mean some new LED cost),factory done may add some cost but surely less than larger the head for the same throw effect.
I understand what you are saying. Thumbs Up . BUT…… you are assuming some factory worker, who may have never dedomed anything; can do it with the skill & accuracy of a seasoned modder.

That “assumption” could well be a recipe for disaster in this, or any group buy. Unless a “factory” has proven they can dedome properly this should not even be a consideration.

The same thing is going on in the GT70 Group Buy. A dedomed emitter ‘may be an option*….. (may be an *option)…… BUT only if Lumintop can prove to TA that they can dedome properly.

As was said earlier… if someone wants this light dedomed they should do it themselves or send it to a skilled modder to have it done.


It’s not common, so I may be missing something important, but…
If you have a proper shim, making a razor cut should not require years of training. And should be of higher quality than similar cuts that many modders do by hand.
Yes, those of use who want to go the extra mile to polish afterwards can still do it better. Though according to RMM, the difference is cosmetic.
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Can someone please explain what SP or SF mean on those Sofirn lights? Thanks!

JasonWW
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RMM charges $8 extra to slice the dome. Would that be a fair bump in price to get a dedomed SP70?

I don’t know if Sofirn can do it and if so, would they want to do it. It adds a lot of extra complication to the assembly as well as packaging since it will need to be kept seperate from the regular version. It may even slow down the production times. Maybe they could do a limited number for those few who want it and can’t slice it their self. It would probably cost extra, though.

I also don’t know if people would really like the sliced 70.2 beam. I’ve heard it gets warmer and the corona gets more yellow. I have not tried slicing a 70.2 myself. I’ve only sliced the older xhp70. It lost a noticeable amount of output, like 20% to 25% and I didn’t like that do I stuck a new emitter back in. I believe the 70.2 only losses around 15%.

Something as to consider is if Sofirn uses a neutral white 70.2 like a 5000K, and you slice it, you may get too warm a color so maybe a 5700 would be a good choice for a single tint. We have not talked about tints, but I’m sure we will eventually. Typical 70.2 tints I’ve seen are 3000K, 4000K, 5000K, 5700K, 6000K and 6500K.

From the Convoy store.

.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

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FlashTom wrote:
Can someone please explain what SP or SF mean on those Sofirn lights? Thanks!

It looks to me like SF is tail switch and SP is side switch. I would also like to know if there is more to it than that, and if the letters stand for anything in particular.

Beam me up!

JasonWW
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Zulumoose wrote:
FlashTom wrote:
Can someone please explain what SP or SF mean on those Sofirn lights? Thanks!

It looks to me like SF is tail switch and SP is side switch. I would also like to know if there is more to it than that, and if the letters stand for anything in particular.


It’s just some internal naming system they have. I don’t know what it means. Maybe they can explain it.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

LessDark
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I had a xhp70.2 5700k sliced, and it turned a bit green. Which I don’t like at all….
The xhp70.2 4000k dome on I like a lot though.
So when it comes to the choice between bad tint and great throw, or good tint and not so good throw I would choose good tint. But that’s just me.

JasonWW
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I did find a light with a 90mm head and a sliced 70.2 led. The Acebeam K65. So it should have the same size reflector as our light will use. A 5000K NW version was tested by Maukka. It’s rated at 6200 lumen and 1014 meters throw. It actually did 4890 lumens and had 900 meters throw. It’s possible this discrepancy is due to the specs being for the 6000K CW version and this being the 5000k NW version.

Here is a beam shot.

He commented that the sliced dome gave the hot spot a slight greenish tint and it made the corona a stronger yellow. It also looks like the spill is fairly yellow. His full review is here. It seems to me like we would want the tint to be a bit cooler than normal since the 70.2 seems to appear warmer than you expect. I’ve got a 6500K in my L6 and it still looks a bit NW to me. I live with it though, as I can’t find anything cooler. This where we need a tint expert like Texas_Ace.

I think the K65 tests prove that with enough power and a sliced dome, over 1000m is easily achieved. I just don’t know if a sliced dome is worth it or not.

Leaving the dome on seems to produce a nicer beam with higher lumen output, but may only get us to around 900 meters. I think this is very reasonable seeing as the older L6 and S70s were only around 500m or so.

Is the world ready for a FET driver? That might be the only way to reach 6000+ lumen on a pair of 26650 batteries.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

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To start off Jason PM’ed me so know that I know positively nothing about this light or thread besides what I scanned on this page.

Far as using the BLF name on the light, while there is no technical rules for using the name, I think that the BLF name should be reserved for lights that are “completely” designed by BLF, using BLF firmware / drivers and to our standards.

My own personal standard for a “BLF” light is a light that I do not need or want to mod after I buy it.

Most lights made now days get input from BLF members in some form, so the line needs to be drawn someplace or BLF will loose it’s meaning on a light.

That is just my opinion though.

Lights like the Q8, GT, FSW3 (SP? yeah, I am that far out of the loop) are good examples of this.

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I see some people asking about XHP70.2 tint.

There is a massive variance in XHP70.2 tints, much more then the model numbers would seem to say in my experience.

Good tints are not easy to find as we are finding with the GT70.

I do not recommend slicing the production lights, all the XHP70.2’s I have sliced so far turn some level of green, although the very cool or very warm versions seem to hide this the best. It will also get warmer by 300-500k when sliced as well.

teacher
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Agro wrote:
teacher wrote:
Satan@103TFS wrote:
Lot of people can’t do proper dedoming like some of skill moder here it is hit or miss (that mean some new LED cost),factory done may add some cost but surely less than larger the head for the same throw effect.
I understand what you are saying. Thumbs Up . BUT…… you are assuming some factory worker, who may have never dedomed anything; can do it with the skill & accuracy of a seasoned modder.

That “assumption” could well be a recipe for disaster in this, or any group buy. Unless a “factory” has proven they can dedome properly this should not even be a consideration.

The same thing is going on in the GT70 Group Buy. A dedomed emitter ‘may be an option*….. (may be an *option)…… BUT only if Lumintop can prove to TA that they can dedome properly.

As was said earlier… if someone wants this light dedomed they should do it themselves or send it to a skilled modder to have it done.

It’s not common, so I may be missing something important, but…
If you have a proper shim, making a razor cut should not require years of training. And should be of higher quality than similar cuts that many modders do by hand.
Yes, those of use who want to go the extra mile to polish afterwards can still do it better. Though according to RMM, the difference is cosmetic.
Could be it would turn out fine… but it also could end up being a mess if not done properly.

Maybe it would be done properly… maybe not.
And this is assuming SOFIRN would even considering doing it in the first place.

“Years of training”…. I assume that was an overstatement. Wink . But it would take some training & time is money… which will add to the price.
The dedoming will add to the price also. Is everyone going to be OK with that for a ‘feature’ they may not even want for this light?

Something I wonder, if dedoming is so quick & easy; why do people charge so much go do it?? Is there a high failure rate?? Beats me, IDK; but I do wonder.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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Texas_Ace wrote:
To start off Jason PM’ed me so know that I know positively nothing about this light or thread besides what I scanned on this page.

The condensed version: Basically the same as a L6 or S70s. Single 70.2, pair of 26650. Side and tail switch. It may have a 90mm head instead of a 75mm. I hope SMO reflector. Driver and UI is not decided.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

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Sounds nice, although unless they use BLF firmware / driver and get a good tint LED, I know a lot of people would still want to mod it with said parts, so not sure I personally would qualify it as a “BLF Series” light, but that is just me.

So I guess it depends on what they end up going with in the end.

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I don’t see any issue with using BLF in the name seeing as the light is being made for us by us its still a BLF build. As for the driver its better for them to make the driver its good inventive for them. For us its less time consuming and won’t take as long to build the light and will keep cost down. Maybe we can use BLF firmware on there driver but the original modes already sound good.

Look at the Astrolux A01 that is a BLF edition light. In the end it doesn’t really matter but if we are going to have major input its a loss to not have our name on it.

The only time we have ever had an issue was after the first BLF A6 driver where made. We had companies trying to place BLF naming on random lights because they saw how big the group buy was.

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/\Thumbs Up … Agreed.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

       Texas Lumens Flashlights  <>   M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$    ||||

         Rudeness Level /\ mΩ /\ {width:70%} /\ LightWiki /\ LED Tint Chart /\ LED Tint Picture /\ Xlamp size chart /\ BatteryU                   Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???   wink   /\ TheOriginal /\ TAB /\ LightSearch /\ BatterySearch /\ 14500's /\ DiCal                                                       

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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
I don’t see any issue with using BLF in the name seeing as the light is being made for us by us its still a BLF build.

Wellp, “FUBU” is already taken, so… Big Smile

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Sofirn wrote:

We never did a group buy before. Help will be much appreciated.

It would be great if people who get in K70 group buy come to this one. More people get in, lower cost it would be, then we can see if we can offer better price.

Furthermore, we are not quite sure if it’s a BLF SP70 or Sofirn SP70. Both works fine for us. If you guys want BLF SP70 or name it other way, anyone can make a logo for it? Is it necessary?

Thanks @Sofirn for stepping up on this project, I think it’ll be a big success for your company and for BLF consumers.

Also thanks @Sofirn for asking about using the BLF name.

JasonWW wrote:
I don’t know if the BLF name can be put on any light. Especially one that does not use a BLF based driver. It may also be up to the forum owner, SB, since he owns the BLF name.

Personally I think Sofirn SP70 is a fine name. I’ll contact SB to see what he thinks. Texas_Ace as well. There might be some sort of prerequisite to use the BLF name. I don’t know for sure.

Thanks @JasonWW too for the input. I agree that Sofirn SP70 sounds like a good name. Since I assume that the actual design and engineering will be handled in-house by Sofirn, they deserve the credit. Of course, if that changes, or if they decide to use a BLF driver, or if some BLF member(s) have a significant level of participation in the actual design/engineering, we can re-evaluate the name.

I would of course appreciate it if you mention somewhere in the final product description that it was developed with input from BLF members.

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Sofirn wrote:
How many people would love to have extra blinky modes like Beacon, SOS, Strobe? I think it could be made. But how do we hide them? Double click to Turbe(click to go back), another double click to SOS(click back to Turbo), another double click to Beacon1(click back to Turbo), another double click to Beacon2(click back to Turbo), make double click to cycle through Tubo-SOS-Beacon1-Beacon2-Strobe, something like that? Any ideas?

I would definitely prefer well hidden blinky modes. I frequently use strobe mode to discourage lurkers in a dark corner of my back yard. As for the UI, I think I would like:

  • Double-click to Turbo
    • Double-click to Strobe
      • Single-click to Beacon1
      • Single-click to Beacon2
      • Single-click to SOS
  • Double-click back to Turbo

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everydaysurvivalgear
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sb56637 wrote:
Sofirn wrote:

We never did a group buy before. Help will be much appreciated.

It would be great if people who get in K70 group buy come to this one. More people get in, lower cost it would be, then we can see if we can offer better price.

Furthermore, we are not quite sure if it’s a BLF SP70 or Sofirn SP70. Both works fine for us. If you guys want BLF SP70 or name it other way, anyone can make a logo for it? Is it necessary?

Thanks @Sofirn for stepping up on this project, I think it’ll be a big success for your company and for BLF consumers.

Also thanks @Sofirn for asking about using the BLF name.

JasonWW wrote:
I don’t know if the BLF name can be put on any light. Especially one that does not use a BLF based driver. It may also be up to the forum owner, SB, since he owns the BLF name.

Personally I think Sofirn SP70 is a fine name. I’ll contact SB to see what he thinks. Texas_Ace as well. There might be some sort of prerequisite to use the BLF name. I don’t know for sure.

Thanks @JasonWW too for the input. I agree that Sofirn SP70 sounds like a good name. Since I assume that the actual design and engineering will be handled in-house by Sofirn, they deserve the credit. Of course, if that changes, or if they decide to use a BLF driver, or if some BLF member(s) have a significant level of participation in the actual design/engineering, we can re-evaluate the name.

That is the whole plan we build the light the way we want it. They will design the light to our specs giving us a choice of parts and design from our feedback in the thread.

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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:

That is the whole plan we build the light the way we want it. They will design the light to our specs giving us a choice of parts and design from our feedback in the thread.

I understand. So let’s just hold off on deciding the final product name until we have the final specs nailed down. For now SP70 is good enough for internal discussion.

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sb56637 wrote:

I would definitely prefer well hidden blinky modes. I frequently use strobe mode to discourage lurkers in a dark corner of my back yard. As for the UI, I think I would like:
  • Double-click to Turbo
    • Double-click to Strobe
      • Single-click to Beacon1
      • Single-click to Beacon2
      • Single-click to SOS
  • Double-click back to Turbo

I’m surprised you don’t like the triple click for strobe. You can get to it faster and simpler. Maybe you think it’s too easy to accidentally activate? If so, maybe it can be changed to 4 fast clicks. Then if you try to activate Turbo and press one extra time by mistake, it will just do nothing instead of surprising you with strobe.

One of the good things about my suggestion was that dbl clk is always turbo and nothing else. Also, a single click is always either on/off or back to the previous level. Nothing else.

Plus it seems natural to cycle through the blinky modes the same way you cycle through the brightness modes. This just makes sense to me.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

sb56637
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JasonWW wrote:

I’m surprised you don’t like the triple click for strobe. You can get to it faster and simpler. Maybe you think it’s too easy to accidentally activate? If so, maybe it can be changed to 4 fast clicks. Then if you try to activate Turbo and press one extra time by mistake, it will just do nothing instead of surprising you with strobe.

One of the good things about my suggestion was that dbl clk is always turbo and nothing else. Also, a single click is always either on/off or back to the previous level. Nothing else.

Plus it seems natural to cycle through the blinky modes the same way you cycle through the brightness modes. This just makes sense to me.


That works too. Thumbs Up As long as blinky modes are available but well hidden I’m all for it.

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everydaysurvivalgear
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sb56637 wrote:
everydaysurvivalgear wrote:

That is the whole plan we build the light the way we want it. They will design the light to our specs giving us a choice of parts and design from our feedback in the thread.

I understand. So let’s just hold off on deciding the final product name until we have the final specs nailed down. For now SP70 is good enough for internal discussion.

Yea sounds good

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Compared to existing lights of this style (L6 and S70), is it possible to design the head with thicker internal shelf and additional/larger fins for better heat dissipation?

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Caleb wrote:
Compared to existing lights of this style (L6 and S70), is it possible to design the head with thicker internal shelf and additional/larger fins for better heat dissipation?

The L6 shelf already looks to be about 6mm thick and can already handle 120 watts. How much thicker does it need to be?

In looking at the L6 cutaway, I can see that if there is a triple emitter version built later on, the shelf is going to be much higher. This would be a great opportunity to use the same basic outer fin design as the single emitter except cut the fins under the shelf much deeper into the head. You will have much more surface area then.

Both single and triple versions would look very similar until you hold them sideways and notice the different fin depths. Does that make sense? I might try and draw a picture tonight.

BTW, the SP70 will use a clear rubber side switch boot like the Q8 to make the switch leds easy to see in the dark and identify the color.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

Texas_Ace
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sb56637 wrote:
Sofirn wrote:
How many people would love to have extra blinky modes like Beacon, SOS, Strobe? I think it could be made. But how do we hide them? Double click to Turbe(click to go back), another double click to SOS(click back to Turbo), another double click to Beacon1(click back to Turbo), another double click to Beacon2(click back to Turbo), make double click to cycle through Tubo-SOS-Beacon1-Beacon2-Strobe, something like that? Any ideas?

I would definitely prefer well hidden blinky modes. I frequently use strobe mode to discourage lurkers in a dark corner of my back yard. As for the UI, I think I would like:

  • Double-click to Turbo
    • Double-click to Strobe
      • Single-click to Beacon1
      • Single-click to Beacon2
      • Single-click to SOS
  • Double-click back to Turbo

So basically you want Narsil lol

Texas_Ace
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JasonWW wrote:
Caleb wrote:
Compared to existing lights of this style (L6 and S70), is it possible to design the head with thicker internal shelf and additional/larger fins for better heat dissipation?

The L6 shelf already looks to be about 6mm thick and can already handle 120 watts. How much thicker does it need to be?

In looking at the L6 cutaway, I can see that if there is a triple emitter version built later on, the shelf is going to be much higher. This would be a great opportunity to use the same basic outer fin design as the single emitter except cut the fins under the shelf much deeper into the head. You will have much more surface area then.

Both single and triple versions would look very similar until you hold them sideways and notice the different fin depths. Does that make sense? I might try and draw a picture tonight.

BTW, the SP70 will use a clear rubber side switch boot like the Q8 to make the switch leds easy to see in the dark and identify the color.

I think he is talking about the very thin walls along the edge of the reflector.

I pointed this out way back when the L6 was still in the prototype stage but it was never addressed. It would significantly improve heat dissipation if we gave the heat a path to use the fins along the top of the light.

As I am sure you know the heat is kind stuck around the shelf area of the light and has a hard time moving higher up the head to use all the fins.

See the Red area below:

Yokiamy
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Yeah basically, i’d prefer narsil as well
And then it could be the Sofirn SP70 BLF edition

Thijsco19 wrote:

a regular symptom of flasholism Big Smile

“Flasholism is the most severe form of flashlight use and involves the inability to manage your flashlight use habits. It is also commonly referred to as flashlight use disorder. Flashlight use disorder is organized into three categories: mild, moderate and severe. Each category has various symptoms and can cause harmful side effects. If left untreated, any type of flashlight use can spiral out of control.”

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