In the last pages of this thread you will find some information!
But I’m afraid you won’t find what you are looking for with this light!
I only have the previous version so I can’t talk much, but maybe the owners of the recent version can help you with that!
I can give you my guesstimate : L = 100, M = 200 - 300, H = 500 - 600 . I like it that way , but I don’t use ML or FF on any of my lights. For the money , it is a buy . ( $13.60 - $4.00 coupon = $9.60 ) Can anyone recommend an optic for it ?
» 1st version: Medium - High - Strobe + Stepless dimming
Click for ON / Long click for OFF » Single click to advance the 3 regular modes ; Double click to pass to stepless dimming (from a “low” but far from ML or FF mode to “high”, but there is no huge discrepancy on the level output. freeme’s video over here: Clone of On The Road M3 ~$13 - #35 by freeme )
» 2nd version: Low - Medium - High + Stepless dimming + Strobe
Click for ON / Long click for OFF » Single click to advance the 3 regular modes ; Double click to pass to stepless dimming ; Triple click for Strobe
(As I said, can’t say much from the 2nd version, but don’t think the modes have suffered much changes in terms of outputs; only the UI has been improved)
On CR123A primaries (not rechargeable) it will probably not exceed 100 lumen.
If you want more light from a CR123A primary, you will need a boost driver.
A CR123 will sag under load and then you have less than 3 Volts from the battery, and you’ll lose some more in the springs and the driver. Not enough for most LEDs.
I am using one of the Convoy S2+ optics (can’t remember if I had to shave it on the edges) and it fits relatively well. There is a small gap between the lens and the bezel, though.
But in normal conditions it will fit (without the plastic holder).
It improves the beam as well, avoiding the fried egg provoked by the reflection!
I am using the gasket around the LED and that helps making pressure against the bezel. I am not using the glass lens.
Possible problems: it is not waterproof as I am not using an o-ring, so it may water may get in.
If I take the gasket out, without using the glass lens on top if the TIR, there will be a space between the bezel and the optic. In this case, the glass lens can be added, but it will still not be waterproof and the bezel will only be slightly tightened.
I could bother more with this and make it waterproof, but I won’t care much!
The frosted TIR, eliminates the “yellow/green” rings produced by the XPL led, and uniformizes it in a nice white beam
Found a quirk of the UI. When in the L-M-H group, it will change modes in the off position by way of short clicks. In other words, if it is turned off in High, you can turn in on in Low or Med by short clicking and then long click to on.
It surely does Tried that before the TIR and it instantly got better! But then I broke the lens and put the TIR in and got even better
This is the “new” UI version, I can’t do it on the old version :zipper_mouth_face:
Did you get the gray or black host? Seems they changed more than the UI for that flashlight!!
Mine is black. I removed the #2 DC Fix after finding the brightness reduced considerably . Does the TIR reduce the lumen output? Maybe tonight I will try the regular DC Fix .
I have no way to measure objectively the lumen output, but it surely decreases a bit, specially being a frosted lens. But, in this case, I prefer the frosted TIR to the DC-Fix, mostly due to the beam.
I guess you can try it with a TIR like those from the link you sent, despite they are a bit more larger than mine on the top. Still, if you have a frosted or pebbled lens to uniformize the beam, you will not miss the few lumens that are retrieved from the use of glass lens.
My opinion, of course