Sofirn Q8 group buy (gb closed, but try PM to Sofirn for discount)

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DB Custom
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A Q8 in both hands and “only” 11,000 lumens? Seems so… ineffective. Both of mine, when used together, netted right at 19,000 lumens. Big Smile I do belief David EF is about to experience some of that joy for his B-Day tomorrow…. Wink

There’s 15,293 lumens in that box I sent yesterday… wish I could see his face when he experiences that the first time. LOL

Dale

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19k lumens of Q8 would be very nice! It’s not an extremely high figure of coz but we also gotta throw in the lux and most importantly the cost as well. Smile

Well, 11k lumens is right about there for stock and excellent batts. Bypassing the spring gives you like 13k conservative for 2 of them? Unfortunately to squeeze out that last 2k+ lumens, the light has to operate in relatively ineffcient lumens/watt territory, a no-no for 29-31 deg C nights here in the tropics. It will be the same even with your SST-40s. Some hotter places have 34-38 deg C nights. Facepalm
Wouldn’t take much to hit 55 deg C even from a cold start.

I can only dream of running lights in winter temps like in N China, Seoul/Japan, N Europe, N USA, Canada.
Heck, even spring is good in those places, even at just 5 deg C we are talking about doubling the Turbo runtime vs here.
Putting it into the freezer before using it is useless as the lens initially fogs up with the very high dew point temps (26-27 deg C). I used to play with things like ice and even dry ice with my pocket rockets last time, spot cooling the head behind the lens part.

djozz
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Sofirn was a manufacturer without an own brand, they made (still make?) Thorfire flashlights, and thus also they made the Q8 for Thorfire. A year or so ago they started an own factory brand Sofirn. They asked the BLF-Q8 team ( Thumbs Up that they did that) if it was ok for them to make new versions of the Q8 under their new flashlight brand name, and so it happened.

mitosis
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Hey djozz did you ever figure out which tint bin are in these?

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Barry asked me to tell that people who currently still want to receive a discount for the Sofirn Q8, can contact Tracy: http://budgetlightforum.com/user/23289

I also wrote this in the OP.

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mitosis wrote:
Hey djozz did you ever figure out which tint bin are in these?

I did not get an answer from Sofirn as I remember, but I did measure it on my sample. I posted it before, but that got of course buried in this vast thread.

post #357: “For the record, I measured the light quality of the hotspot at max power: 70.5 CRI, 6550K, almost on top of the BBL (Duv=+0.0021)”

So that should be an 1A tint.

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Oh neat! Curiosity satisfied, thanks Big Smile

Drontti
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I finally received my Q8 from aliexpress today Smile
I was just about to solder buttons on my flat top 30Q’s, but just as joke tried those on my flashlight first and it turned on no problems. Is there something that I am missing? Why do they say that I’d need to use button tops?

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Put solder on your Batteries – maybe only one battery makes contact and get’s overloaded.

DB Custom
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Most flat tops will not make contact with the brass ring due to the wrap being too thick with the flat top falling below that, if your cells work without solder blobbing that’s great, use em!

I decided this morning to slice the domes off the XP-L2’s in my Sofirn Q8 and dice the remaining phosphor from the sides of the die to clear the substrate of unnecessary phosphor (to get rid of the ugly aura) This did cost me some lumens, but the resulting hot spot is tighter and easier to look at the aura… the aura is warmer than the hot spot but it’s not the odd sickly weirdness usually present from the flip chip technology. Where I was at 9936 lumens it now seems to be at 8522, charging the Samsung 25S cells to do another run on the box but I think it’s worth the loss, hot spot gains alone with the throw being at 91.75Kcd for 605.8M throw.

Edit: With fresh charged cells it’s now making 9142.5 lumens and at 30 seconds it has dropped to 7210.5 lumens, quite hot stuffed in the light box with no air flow! Thermal step down is probably the greater cause of the drop, Anduril is pretty effective in the Q8.

Dale

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Both ends of the spectrum:

It could wear down the wrapper and create a short or it could be as harmless as the light turning off with a slight bump, and probably a few other scenarios in between.

teacher
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Drontti wrote:
I finally received my Q8 from aliexpress today Smile
I was just about to solder buttons on my flat top 30Q’s, but just as joke tried those on my flashlight first and it turned on no problems. Is there something that I am missing? Why do they say that I’d need to use button tops?
Make sure all 4 batteries are making contact. In most cases, using flat tops; they won’t be. Sad

That is why button top or solder b(. )( .)b cells are recommended.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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djozz wrote:
Barry asked me to tell that people who currently still want to receive a discount for the Sofirn Q8, can contact Tracy: http://budgetlightforum.com/user/23289

I also wrote this in the OP.

I did this and was able to pick up a Sofirn Q8 from Amazon for a friend. Not the exact same price as the original group-buy, but a very good price nonetheless. Thanks to djozz and Sofirn.

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My second Q8 just arrived. This one has some minor imperfections in its anodization (e.g. cooling fin has obviously touched something hard) and threads must have been greased with something "sandy" as it sounds terrifying when unscrewing the head from the tube. I guess I need to clean those threads and relubricate them with nyogel. So, certainly it will not end as a shelf queen. wink Apart from that it's a great flashlight and works properly so far.

What has also come to my attention is something strange to me. Maybe some of you guys can doublecheck with your Q8s if this is absolutely normal and the same with every Q8. When I look into the reflector from a centered position I see that the outer rim or this "black gap" between reflector and bezel ring is differently wide, see picture below. I'm not sure if this can be fixed or if it need to be fixed at all as I did not see any influence on the light beam so far. Both my Q8s look very much the same i.a.w. this gap. Unfortunately, I did not manage to take a real good picture to show the effect but I hope it still indicates what I meant to say.

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@ Lux-Perpetuam, that’s supposed to be the black O-ring right? It’s for water-proofing/water resistance of the light.

It should be quite uniform in thickness, but maybe you could try untwisting the stainless steel bezel (counter clockwise) and then tightening it back, with just enough torque? You don’t need too much tightening torque if you are not going to put it into rivers or something like that, it will still be splash proof and rain-proof.

Try to use a rubber glove if it’s difficult to twist.

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[quote=Lux-Perpetua]

My second Q8 just arrived. This one has some minor imperfections in its anodization (e.g. cooling fin has obviously touched something hard) and threads must have been greased with something “sandy” as it sounds terrifying when unscrewing the head from the tube. I guess I need to clean those threads and relubricate them with nyogel. So, certainly it will not end as a shelf queen. wink Apart from that it’s a great flashlight and works properly so far.


What has also come to my attention is something strange to me. Maybe some of you guys can doublecheck with your Q8s if this is absolutely normal and the same with every Q8. When I look into the reflector from a centered position I see that the outer rim or this “black gap” between reflector and bezel ring is differently wide, see picture below. I’m not sure if this can be fixed or if it need to be fixed at all as I did not see any influence on the light beam so far. Both my Q8s look very much the same i.a.w. this gap. Unfortunately, I did not manage to take a real good picture to show the effect but I hope it still indicates what I meant to say.



Try breaking the bezel loose enough, but don’t remove. Then remove the (2) screws the hold the driver to the head, remove the driver, the wires are long enough to access the back of the driver so it shouldn’t be a problem. to drop the driver a bit. Look inside the head. There are (3) screws the hold the reflector to the mcpcb to the head, loosen them, don’t remove them. Now tighten the bezel, it should center the reflector, then go back and tighten the (3) screws gently, evenly, in stages, reassemble the driver. I have had mine apart several times, it works for me… good luck.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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“I’ve had mine apart several times, it works for me…”

Indeed! Big Smile

Dale

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Anybody have a picture of the driver in the Sofirn Q8 specifically the MOSFET? Or know the number on the Q8 FET? I modded Q8 and also changed the stock mosfet to a Infineon FET, never paying attention what the stock FET was. But I have a used one laying here and I don’t know if it was from the Q8 or the C8F 21700. Wondering if Sofirn used the same FET in both lights?

Big Smile Hahaa Dale! “Indeed” Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Anybody have a picture of the driver in the Sofirn Q8 specifically the MOSFET? Or know the number on the Q8 FET? I modded Q8 and also changed the stock mosfet to a Infineon FET, never paying attention what the stock FET was. But I have a used one laying here and I don’t know if it was from the Q8 or the C8F 21700. Wondering if Sofirn used the same FET in both lights?

My first reaction is they have to be different since the Sofirn Q8 performs exactly as it should. Here are my two lights. They are similar, but not the same.

I looked at Sofirns store where they sell the driver and it clearly shows 2 different FETs in the pictures, but I can’t read the writing on them.

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Anthon
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I received my Sofirn Q8 from the GB

With a KD AR Lens my sphere shows a 330lm gain in turbo.

Measured at 5500lm and 680m with the AR Lens.

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Not keen on soldering a set of high quality springs into my brand new Sofirn Q8, I decided to try an old fashioned spring bypass. Not from the top of the springs to the tailcap switch (which does not exist). Instead I put in four 20 AWG leads from the top of the springs to where the base plate is screwed onto the body. Four leads may seem a bit crowded but there is a lot of space between the springs. The eyes at the end go around the screws between base plate and body. This increased output from about 90 kCd to 92.8 kCd (30sec).
To compensate for the fact that the eyes on the leads add an extra mm distance between baseplate and body, I swopped the standard Ø2.5*4mm screws with longer ones from my spare parts can.

For obvious reasons (visibility) the picture above shows only one bypass.

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

DB Custom
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Jason, “2D030L” is the pertinent labeling, the other is manufacturing codes… to the best of my knowledge. Insomuch as these 2 you show are indeed the same MOSFET.

Dale

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Can someone confirm the size screws for the tail cap please

I read somewhere that they’re M2.5 × 5mm but Henk4U is saying 4mm??

teacher
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Funtastic wrote:
Can someone confirm the size screws for the tail cap please

I read somewhere that they’re M2.5 × 5mm but Henk4U is saying 4mm??

This is the info I had in my notes……

Here’s all the screws below:

Q8 V2 Screw sizes

  • Driver (2): M2.5 × 4 mm
  • Tail PCB (4): M2.5 × 5 mm
  • Reflector (1): M4 × 10mm
  • MCPCB (2): M2.5 × 10mm

Q8 V1 Same Except

  • Driver (2): M3 × 5mm (might be 4mm/check 2b sure)
  • Reflector (1): M4 × 8mm (10mm might work/check 2b sure)

Edit: The above info is for the original Thorfire Q8.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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Funtastic
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Thank you, I’ve ordered the correct ones then.

Just finished bypassing the springs and now getting 5030 at 30 sec with 30Q’s … 300 lumen increase, not bad.

I was expecting more but I guess that’s the downside to XPL HI’s compared to the BLF Q8

teacher
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Funtastic wrote:
Thank you, I’ve ordered the correct ones then.

Just finished bypassing the springs and now getting 5030 at 30 sec with 30Q’s … 300 lumen increase, not bad.

I was expecting more but I guess that’s the downside to XPL HI’s compared to the BLF Q8

My pleasure. Good increase too. Thumbs Up

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention those screw sizes were for the original Thorfire Q8. But they should be the same for the Sofirn Q8. I added an edit to the post above to reflect this.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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Funtastic wrote:
Can someone confirm the size screws for the tail cap please

I read somewhere that they’re M2.5 × 5mm but Henk4U is saying 4mm??

I wrote ‘standard Ø2.5*4mm screws’ which means that the lenght of the thread is 4mm. A bit short IMHO. But then again: I come from the world of powerplants. Everything under M6 is focussing on not shearing off bolts.

Don’t worry, the inner threads in the body stretch far enough for a few extra mm.

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

Funtastic
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Just in case anyone is interested in results using Sofirn unprotected cells, NCR18650GA’s, and 30Q’s

Stock Q8

Sofirn cells – (4730) – on / (4440) 30 – sec
GA’s – (4820) – on / (4460) 30 – sec
30Q’s – (5020) – on / (4720) 30 – sec

Bypassed Q8

Sofirn cells – (4960) – on / (4620) 30 – sec
GA’s – not yet measured
30Q’s – (5440) – on / (5030) 30 – sec

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I really like this Sofirn Q8. Nice pure white beam, no ugly tint shift. Shot taken with my Galaxy S9 camera. Pitch black outside, no street lights, no moon.

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@ Funtastic… Thanks for the info, good results! Thumbs Up
.

@ RobertB…. Great shot, I too love that beautiful white beam the Sofirn Q8 produces. Very nice indeed!! . Thumbs Up . Thumbs Up

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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