6th Annual BLF Handmade Entry (Finished!) - gchart

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gchart
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6th Annual BLF Handmade Entry (Finished!) - gchart

Ok guys, this is the first time I’ve entered. And I’m going to start small (I have four small kids, so my only “work time” is after everyone is asleep and I can sneak off to the garage). In looking at past entries, even the idea in my head doesn’t hold a candle to the wonderful creations from years past. But alas, you have to start somewhere, right?

Behold, the flip-lantern! Well, at least a sketch of it.

I’m thinking a small cylindrical housing of frosted glass or plastic (whatever item I can find of appropriate size) with flat caps of wood or metal at either end. A cap can be removed to access the “light engine” inside, which will likely be a sandwich of two custom PCBs held together by copper rods, holding a 18650 between them. The plan is for the PCBs to have 4× 80+ CRI 4000K 2835 LEDs on each one (8 total) being powered by a single 7135 for approximately 150 lumens. Also mounted on the PCB will be a mercury tilt switch and a LDO+resistor combo Current Regulating Diode (Semitec S-120T) to drive the LEDs at around 1mA when you flip the lantern upside down. Flip it back upright and the mercury switch will enable the 7135. Pretty basic, but it should be a fun first build.

Stay tuned!

.

Tasks Completed:

  • Initial sketch done
  • LEDs ordered
  • Components (minus LEDs) received
  • PCBs received
  • Housing completed
  • Prototype built and tested
  • Final PCBs have been populated
  • Battery guard cut, sanded, and polished
  • Solder battery guard in place
  • Solder conducting rods in place
  • Final touch-ups

.

Tasks In-Progress:

  • Nada

.

Future Tasks:

  • Nada

.

Final Pictures

PCBs before assembly

PCB labelling

Internals, front

Internals, back

High power

Low power

Here’s a proper shot of it, before the diffusion foam:

GIF animation

.

Highlights:

  • Custom PCBs using white solder mask for reflection (Oshpark link)
  • ~150 lumens from 8× 4000K 80-CRI 2835 LEDs (in High mode)
  • On-off switch for traveling/storage
  • Uses a mercury tilt switch to switch between High and Low modes
  • High mode uses a single 7135 to driver 350 mA to the 8 LEDs
  • Low mode uses a 1 mA Current Regulating Diode (Semitec S-120T) to deliver 1 mA to the 8 LEDs
  • End caps are cut from a Poplar plank, shaped via sanding, and then polyurethaned
  • Housing is plastic (cut from a seasoning shaker), roughed up with sandpaper, and sprayed with Frosted Glass spray. Additional diffusion provided by some sheet foam.
  • Battery guard was cut from a 3/4” copper pipe and shaped with a drill, angle grinder, files, sand paper, and then Mother’s Mag Polish
  • Connection between the two PCBs consists of two copper rods. This also provides a bit of structural integrity in addition to the battery guard.

PS – I have 6 extra PCBs from PCBway. I will likely never use them, so if anyone would like to build their own version of this, let me know and I could probably send you a set (sorry… US only, international shipping would be prohibitively expensive).

Edited by: gchart on 11/30/2018 - 13:07
CRX
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Cool, looks like a nice idea Thumbs Up

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Subscribed Thumbs Up

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gchart
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MascaratumB wrote:
don’t forget: …

Thanks for the reminder; done!
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Cool idea! Thumbs Up

Subscribed to see how this proceeds. Smile

=the=

 

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Looks cool!

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Sounds like you have a plan. Smile
Maybe you could fit in one of those little usb chargers as well?
Ok, I’m back in my box. Silly

 

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subscribed because its a lantern build! Smile

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MRsDNF wrote:
Maybe you could fit in one of those little usb chargers as well?

I like the idea (a TP4056?). I dunno if it’ll fit well into the design, but I’ll definitely keep it in mind if it looks like it’ll fit!
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Nice idea, looking forward to watching the progress.

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gchart wrote:
MRsDNF wrote:
Maybe you could fit in one of those little usb chargers as well?

I like the idea (a TP4056?). I dunno if it’ll fit well into the design, but I’ll definitely keep it in mind if it looks like it’ll fit!

You are the man, to do this that is. Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Enderman
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Do many LEDs in parallel, so they all get a smaller bit of current, that way you get much higher lumens/W and you can get longer runtime Smile

Phlogiston
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gchart wrote:
Behold, the flip-lantern!

Ingenious Smile

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Love the tilt idea, though some kind of lockout would be useful. Smile

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Subscribed.
Good luck!

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Have any of you tried PCBWay or AllPCB for your PCBs? I’m leaning towards PCBWay for this project. I always use Oshpark but I’m looking to get ones with white solder mask. They’re both in China, but seem to have good prices, lots of options, and pretty quick turn around time.

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Cant help you there. I’ve only used Oshpark.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

gchart
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Ok, I’m still learning about proper driver designs, so I’m going to throw my schematic and PCB out here for critique before I order it. The PCB has been uploaded to Oshpark, but I will likely be using a different service (see above).

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/zMUnQFCd


Another note… I decided to simplify a bit and spec out a Current Regulating Diode (1ma version) in place of the LDO+resistor. I’ve never seen one used but they appear pretty basic.

Oh, another thing… While this is one board, I’m basically designing it as if they were two separate ones, the circuitry is independent of each other. One side will be used as the main board of the lantern while the other will be a slave board.

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Why is there a ring around the center pad? What purpose does it serve?

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

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Looking at your schematic. Can you describe to me in words how you expect it to function? I’m having a hard time trying to understand it. Facepalm

EDIT: In particular, the switching doesn’t make sense to me. I understand the slide switch disconnects the ground and turns the light off, but what is the tilt switch supposed to accomplish?

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Hey David!

  • Ring around battery pads: my plan for holding the battery in place is to have a ring of 3/4” copper pipe (perhaps 1/2” tall) attached to the top of each board with just enough of a gap that the battery can be slid into position and then be held by the spring on the neg pad. The exposed ring on the PCB will allow me to solder the copper pipe pieces in place.
  • Switches: the slide switch, as you said, will disconnect the ground and completely disable the lantern. When that’s switched on, the mercury (Hg) switch will turn the 7135 on or off.
  • Functionality: When the primary board is face up, the mercury switch will be On, enabling the 7135 and pushing 350mA through the LEDs. When you physically flip the lantern over, the mercury switch will turn the 7135 off. However, current will still be able to flow through the Current Regulating Diode (Semitec S-102T) sending 1mA to the LEDs for a dim glow (akin to the illuminated tailcaps I’m so fond of Wink ). I am debating, however, if 1mA might be too bright. Most of my tailcaps operate at around ~0.15mA, but then again, this lantern is much larger than a tailcap.
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OK, I get it now, the two power deliveries are wired parallel to the LEDs. Either just the 1mA source or that plus the 7135 will be on. Thumbs Up

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- The YKK Philosophy

gchart
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Yup!

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The PCBs came in today. At this point, I’ve got all of the parts except the LEDs.

Next up: preparing the housing (probably the most difficult step for me, limited access to proper tools)

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Even though my 4000K LEDs aren’t in yet, I couldn’t help but build a prototype while I wait! I have some 5000K on hand, so I used those – I just wanted something warmer for a “lantern” style device.

Differences between this light engine and what I have envisioned for the final version:

  • 5000K LEDs instead of 4000K
  • Used a 1800 Ohm resistor instead of the 1mA current regulating diode. Assuming a supply voltage of 4.2V and a LED forward voltage of 2.43V (as measured), that should give me roughly 1mA on a full battery: (4.2V – 2.5V) / 1800 Ohms = 0.00098A = 0.98mA
  • Jumped the switch pads with a wire instead of a switch (like the CRD, I only bought one switch)
  • Stranded copper wire for the conductor pillars instead of the copper rods (only bought enough for the final version)
  • Battery is only held in place by the spring tension. I plan on having a partial copper surround and then a velcro strap or something to make sure it doesn’t budge.

Dim mode, Bright mode
.

Action video:

Another tidbit… assuming a 3000 mAh battery, this should last 8.6 hours on high or 4.2 months on low/moonlight.

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Nice progress. Is the battery going to be removable?

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That’s pretty cool. You are certainly making some headway into the build.

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Very nice!

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Very cool idea. The build looks like its coming along nicely.

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Thanks all!

pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Nice progress. Is the battery going to be removable?

Yup, battery will be removable. It may not be super easy, but reasonable enough.
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