I'm looking for my grail light 0.7" diameter 500 lumen 14500 light

39 posts / 0 new
Last post

Pages

JJMcGee83
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 07/14/2017 - 23:40
Posts: 32
Location: Seattle, WA
I'm looking for my grail light 0.7" diameter 500 lumen 14500 light

I have a Zebralight sc64c and it is as close to perfect as any light I’ve tried so far but the big disadvantage of it to me and all other 186500 lights is the width/diameter. That width makes it less justifiable for me to carry with me everywhere to the point where I find myself carrying a AA or 2xAAA light often instead. Thrunite T10 for the AA (I wish it was the T10T but they don’t seem to make it anymore) and Lumintop IYP365 Nichia for the 2xAAA for anyone wondering.

Anyway I thought 14500 light would be the perfect solution to this but it seems like all the 14500s I’ve tried have issues I find unappealing, primarily they are too thick, thick enough that it ends up making me question why bother when it’s only marginally less than the Zebralight sc64c. Prior to getting into the 18650 game my EDC was a Eagletac D25A Clicky. It is an amazing size and weight. The one I have is the Cree version; I don’t remember which Cree I just know I went with it because I wanted the most light and was tempted by the numbers and this was before I became a tint snob.

So far I have tried

  • Olight S1A – Bezel up carry, shitty button always turned on, cool tint, but good output
  • Lumintop Tool AA – Shitty tint, a bit thicker than I would find ideal, the pocket clip is entirely useless but otherwise this one came the closest.
  • Zebralight SC53c – Great tint. Decent output. Good UI. BIG FAT HEAD. The Head is so big it’s a bitch to actually use the pocket clip and the head is so large it’s not that much thinner.
  • Thrunite T10 – It’s the NW version. The tint is good but not great and it’s a bit thick. Not super thick but still thicker than I’d like.
  • Reylight Pineapple – too heavy and too thick. It’s a good length, has a great tint, has the good output. The UI is good but not great.

What I’d like:

  • 14500 light around 0.7” in diameter and around 4“ish in length
  • Max lumens at or greater than 500 lumens
  • Moonline mode 1 lumen or lower
  • Several modes in between
  • Good warm tint around 4000K
  • Preferably a high CRI

What options do I have outside of modding? And if it comes down to modding how do I even begin with it?

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 4 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3270
Location: North Carolina

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/58082
They changed the UI slightly from when the review was posted. The updated UI is described in “post #17”:http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1285452#comment-1285452 and” is now in the sp10a.”:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Presell-Sofirn-New-SP10A-Mini-Portable-L...EDC-Pocket-Light-Cree-XP-G2-Portable-Keychain/32827035369.html
“The newest sp10a v2 has one more mode for a total of 6 and a .5 lumen fire fly”:https://www.amazon.com/Sofirn-SP10A-Mini-Flashlight-Keychain-Ring-CREE-LED-Gives-max-550-Lumen-Great-Small-EDC-Light-Daily-Use/dp/B07FMKN5K4.
If you would like a better tint reflow a LH351D 4000k 90cri led on the existing board. Not hard to do but requires soldering.

toddcshoe
toddcshoe's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 01/24/2018 - 23:49
Posts: 2126
Location: Foley, MO

I’d grab a Ultratac A1 and swap in your emitter of choice. It’s right at your requested .7” Which the Lumintop Tool AA is as well. It’s also shorter than 4”. Has a good sublumen mode with NiMh. Don’t know if you are going to find a AA light with “several” modes in between. Your .7” threshold might hold you up as well. The battery itself is 14mm, plus or minus, depending on wrap thickness. That only leaves what a little over 3mm for tube material and tolerances. Head and tail sizes are what they are based upon the size of drivers being made now days. You may have to sacrifice something if you are looking for AAA type thin in a AA light.

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

JJMcGee83
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 07/14/2017 - 23:40
Posts: 32
Location: Seattle, WA
moderator007 wrote:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/58082 They changed the UI slightly from when the review was posted. The updated UI is described in “post #17”:http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1285452#comment-1285452 and” is now in the sp10a.”:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Presell-Sofirn-New-SP10A-Mini-Portable-L...EDC-Pocket-Light-Cree-XP-G2-Portable-Keychain/32827035369.html “The newest sp10a v2 has one more mode for a total of 6 and a .5 lumen fire fly”:https://www.amazon.com/Sofirn-SP10A-Mini-Flashlight-Keychain-Ring-CREE-LED-Gives-max-550-Lumen-Great-Small-EDC-Light-Daily-Use/dp/B07FMKN5K4. If you would like a better tint reflow a LH351D 4000k 90cri led on the existing board. Not hard to do but requires soldering.

That’s thicker than I’d like and a proud side switch seems like a really poor design choice but appreciate the option.

toddcshoe wrote:
I’d grab a Ultratac A1 and swap in your emitter of choice. It’s right at your requested .7” Which the Lumintop Tool AA is as well. It’s also shorter than 4”. Has a good sublumen mode with NiMh. Don’t know if you are going to find a AA light with “several” modes in between. Your .7” threshold might hold you up as well. The battery itself is 14mm, plus or minus, depending on wrap thickness. That only leaves what a little over 3mm for tube material and tolerances. Head and tail sizes are what they are based upon the size of drivers being made now days. You may have to sacrifice something if you are looking for AAA type thin in a AA light.

If I have to remove any qualifiers it’s not my grail light anymore, it’s just another light. The Reylight has 4 modes. Moonlight, Low, Mid, High, that’s several so I don’t know why you say several modes is going to be hard to find. The Zebraligt has like 16 output levels you can program it with I think.

The Eagletac I’m referencing as almost my perfect size is Head Dia. 0.7 inches (17.5 mm) Body Dia. 0.65 inches (17 mm) so I guess 18mm is ok but any larger and it gets to the place where I’m not interested.

toddcshoe
toddcshoe's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 01/24/2018 - 23:49
Posts: 2126
Location: Foley, MO

Well, I hope you find what you are looking for. Might want to find your perfect host light. Whatever that may be and add your own driver, emitter and reflector. I don’t have a Eagle Tac so I’m not sure how it’s put together. You may just be able to swap the emitter out for less than a 10 dollar bill and have exactly what you want. That is what I would do if I couldn’t find anything commercially available.

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

pc_light
pc_light's picture
Offline
Last seen: 21 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2017 - 16:19
Posts: 363
Location: United States

If size is important, the DQG Tiny AA runs 14500 and comes in a variety of emitters including a warm 90cri Nichia. Not much bigger than many AAA lights and easy to carry.

FWIW, my pocket EDC rotation includes the even smaller DQG Slim AA which is a half sized AA light.

Seeking the light.

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 4 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3270
Location: North Carolina

JJMcGee83 wrote:

The Eagletac I’m referencing as almost my perfect size is Head Dia. 0.7 inches (17.5 mm) Body Dia. 0.65 inches (17 mm) so I guess 18mm is ok but any larger and it gets to the place where I’m not interested.


Which Eagletac model are you interested in?
The Ultratac A1 is quite a nice light too and small. If I had the same request you have from a small 14500 light I would choose the A1 and mod the driver and led. I’m currently working on fitting a Mtnelectronics 17mm boost driver in a A1 with a high cri xhp50.2. Should make 2000 lumens (hopefully) using a IMR Efest 14500 at least until it starts blistering my fingers. Hopeing the cell can delivery 7 amps for a few seconds. Big Smile
toddcshoe
toddcshoe's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 01/24/2018 - 23:49
Posts: 2126
Location: Foley, MO

moderator007 wrote:
JJMcGee83 wrote:

The Eagletac I’m referencing as almost my perfect size is Head Dia. 0.7 inches (17.5 mm) Body Dia. 0.65 inches (17 mm) so I guess 18mm is ok but any larger and it gets to the place where I’m not interested.


Which Eagletac model are you interested in?
The Ultratac A1 is quite a nice light too and small. If I had the same request you have from a small 14500 light I would choose the A1 and mod the driver and led. I’m currently working on fitting a Mtnelectronics 17mm boost driver in a A1 with a high cri xhp50.2. Should make 2000 lumens (hopefully) using a IMR Efest 14500 at least until it starts blistering my fingers. Hopeing the cell can delivery 7 amps for a few seconds. Big Smile

Please tell me you are going to detail that mod in a thread on here. I have several A1’s new in the box and that just sounds like fun right there. Smile

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 4 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3270
Location: North Carolina

toddcshoe wrote:

Please tell me you are going to detail that mod in a thread on here. I have several A1’s new in the box and that just sounds like fun right there. Smile


I might Big Smile
I haven’t took any pics or anything yet, so I may have to get it operational and disassemble to take some pics to post up. I’m at a stand still right now, I think I shorted something while I was testing on my power supply and blew the mosfet. Ordered a new mosfet and reflowed it back in its place and now the drivers still acting weird. Waiting to see if Richard has any ideas on whats going on with it.
Noway I could keep a 14500 pocket rocket a secret. Big Smile
WhitedragonBC
WhitedragonBC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 4 days ago
Joined: 05/17/2014 - 00:42
Posts: 190
Location: California

I use an Eagletac D25A with a 14500 in it. Only problem is the mode spacing gets a little weird. Probably like 5-150-300

EasyB
Offline
Last seen: 21 min 55 sec ago
Joined: 03/09/2016 - 15:24
Posts: 1819
Location: Ohio

I agree with you about the width of the light being important. I carry a thrunite T10 on the inside front pocket. You can see my mods here. Edit: the deep carry pocket clip is also a big plus for me.

It sounds like the D25A is the right size, but it’s not bright enough and the tint is bad? To mod it you first have to take it apart, and this can be the hardest step because some manufactures use glue on the threads. Then I would use a FET+1 driver for use with a li-ion 14500. This will get you a low moonlight and also very bright turbo. Mtnelectronics has some small diameter drivers that might work for your light. Also switch out the LED for one of your choice on the correct size DTP (direct thermal path) MCPCB. Once you get it apart and post pictures we can help with part selection if you’re not sure.

I remember looking at many AA/14500 lights before I chose the T10. As you noticed most are too thick and/or use a side switch. So modding might be the best option to get all the features you want.

toddcshoe
toddcshoe's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 01/24/2018 - 23:49
Posts: 2126
Location: Foley, MO

moderator007 wrote:
toddcshoe wrote:

Please tell me you are going to detail that mod in a thread on here. I have several A1’s new in the box and that just sounds like fun right there. Smile


I might Big Smile
I haven’t took any pics or anything yet, so I may have to get it operational and disassemble to take some pics to post up. I’m at a stand still right now, I think I shorted something while I was testing on my power supply and blew the mosfet. Ordered a new mosfet and reflowed it back in its place and now the drivers still acting weird. Waiting to see if Richard has any ideas on whats going on with it.
Noway I could keep a 14500 pocket rocket a secret. Big Smile

Excellent. Hope you get the mosfet problem sorted out. I know the basics of how a mosfet works but thats about it. I wouldn’t be any help figuring out that problem. Well now that the secrets out of the bag I will probably bug you until you get tired of me and post all of your hard work so us lowly beginners can plagiarize your work. Wink

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

Boaz
Boaz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 22 min ago
Joined: 11/07/2010 - 09:31
Posts: 7245
Location: Birthplace of Aviation

Eagletac ti d25A early version (2012) does 600+ lumens on an old school xml

 The Xeno ES1 is the same size width/length too .I like these lights because of their quality and I agree with you  it's a good size AA light.

 They also share the nifty Xeno diffuser with a flat top .one of the few wand diffusers i actually like .. it fits the eagletac like it was made for it.

 The ES1 is  listed as a AA only light and has the Olight style.. med /low high driver...but has the best looking tint cree NW 3B I've ever seen ..and I've seen a lot of bad 3B's Silly

the low is one lumen which I like  

 Good luck on your quest ,Sounds like you'll need to mod a light 

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

JJMcGee83
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 07/14/2017 - 23:40
Posts: 32
Location: Seattle, WA
moderator007 wrote:
Which Eagletac model are you interested in? The Ultratac A1 is quite a nice light too and small. If I had the same request you have from a small 14500 light I would choose the A1 and mod the driver and led. I’m currently working on fitting a Mtnelectronics 17mm boost driver in a A1 with a high cri xhp50.2. Should make 2000 lumens (hopefully) using a IMR Efest 14500 at least until it starts blistering my fingers. Hopeing the cell can delivery 7 amps for a few seconds. Big Smile

It’s the Eagletac D25a clicky that I have. It’s a very cool tint but for size that is about perfect. Maybe a bit longer.

JJMcGee83
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 07/14/2017 - 23:40
Posts: 32
Location: Seattle, WA
Boaz wrote:

Eagletac ti d25A early version (2012) does 600+ lumens on an old school xml


 The Xeno ES1 is the same size width/length too .I like these lights because of their quality and I agree with you  it’s a good size AA light.


 They also share the nifty Xeno diffuser with a flat top .one of the few wand diffusers i actually like .. it fits the eagletac like it was made for it.


 The ES1 is  listed as a AA only light and has the Olight style.. med /low high driver…but has the best looking tint cree NW 3B I’ve ever seen ..and I’ve seen a lot of bad 3B’s Silly


the low is one lumen which I like  


 Good luck on your quest ,Sounds like you’ll need to mod a light 

I’ve never heard of Xeno. It looks like a good size I just wish it had more output.

Geuzzz
Geuzzz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 week ago
Joined: 10/25/2015 - 10:27
Posts: 1114
Location: Netherlands

D25a ti nichia 4000k comes close to all you want.

JJMcGee83
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 07/14/2017 - 23:40
Posts: 32
Location: Seattle, WA
Geuzzz wrote:
D25a ti nichia 4000k comes close to all you want.

They apparently don’t make it anymore and I don’t think it will allow 14500 or get the output. Is there a mod I can do?

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 4 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3270
Location: North Carolina
JJMcGee83 wrote:
Geuzzz wrote:
D25a ti nichia 4000k comes close to all you want.

They apparently don’t make it anymore and I don’t think it will allow 14500 or get the output. Is there a mod I can do?


My opinion to achieve what you want.
I don’t know the size of the driver, so a 15mm Mtnelectronics driver with 4 7135’s might work or 17mm with 4 7135’s removed filed down if its 16mm.
I think 4 7135’s will work with a nichia or samsung led in a high CRI to get you to the 500 lumen mark. 4 7135’s will give about 1400ma except on the 17mm driver, 4 will give about 1490ma. Its possible with the 17mm driver only 3 7135’s would be needed to reach 500 lumens depending on the led you use. I prefer the Samsung 4000k LH351D 90 CRI. The drivers from Mtn have different UI’s you can chose from.
If the D25a is your chosen size light but lacks other features, then modding it should get you your holy grail. Wink
For most of us modders that’s the whole reason we do it, we can’t buy a light exactly like we want it. Big Smile
Cereal_killer
Cereal_killer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/22/2013 - 13:10
Posts: 4005
Location: Ohio

The L3 L10 clicky would be a potential mod host of you didn’t want to mod the D25C.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

JJMcGee83
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 07/14/2017 - 23:40
Posts: 32
Location: Seattle, WA
moderator007 wrote:
JJMcGee83 wrote:
Geuzzz wrote:
D25a ti nichia 4000k comes close to all you want.

They apparently don’t make it anymore and I don’t think it will allow 14500 or get the output. Is there a mod I can do?


My opinion to achieve what you want.
I don’t know the size of the driver, so a 15mm Mtnelectronics driver with 4 7135’s might work or 17mm with 4 7135’s removed filed down if its 16mm.
I think 4 7135’s will work with a nichia or samsung led in a high CRI to get you to the 500 lumen mark. 4 7135’s will give about 1400ma except on the 17mm driver, 4 will give about 1490ma. Its possible with the 17mm driver only 3 7135’s would be needed to reach 500 lumens depending on the led you use. I prefer the Samsung 4000k LH351D 90 CRI. The drivers from Mtn have different UI’s you can chose from.
If the D25a is your chosen size light but lacks other features, then modding it should get you your holy grail. Wink
For most of us modders that’s the whole reason we do it, we can’t buy a light exactly like we want it. Big Smile

What kind of tools would I need to do something like that?

Cereal_killer wrote:
The L3 L10 clicky would be a potential mod host of you didn’t want to mod the D25C.

That looks like a neat little light.

RobertB
RobertB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 12/18/2015 - 17:49
Posts: 3445
Location: USA, Michigan

Jetbeam Jet 1 Mk. 1.5 to 480lm. 14500/AA twisty. .76” at knurling on the head, .66” battery tube. Great build quality, and inexpensive. I bought several a year or two ago in the 10 dollar each range. I don’t normally like twistys, but this is an exception.

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 4 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3270
Location: North Carolina

Its hard to say exactly without knowing how everything is in the light. A soldering iron of 50 watts or more, solder, flux, probably a file, maybe needle nose pliers, thermal paste and a frying pan and stove.

JJMcGee83
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 07/14/2017 - 23:40
Posts: 32
Location: Seattle, WA
moderator007 wrote:
Its hard to say exactly without knowing how everything is in the light. A soldering iron of 50 watts or more, solder, flux, probably a file, maybe needle nose pliers, thermal paste and a frying pan and stove.

What would I need a frying pan and stove for?

Boaz
Boaz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 22 min ago
Joined: 11/07/2010 - 09:31
Posts: 7245
Location: Birthplace of Aviation

Girls gotta eat ..

 To reflow the emitter onto the mcpcb...and snacks 

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 4 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3270
Location: North Carolina

Boaz wrote:

Girls gotta eat ..


 To reflow the emitter onto the mcpcb…and snacks 


That’s it. That method works good and you should already have what you need for this step. Sometimes it’s easier to reflow a new emitter on to the existing board in the light.
Jambo
Jambo's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/14/2017 - 17:21
Posts: 40

The new Eagtac D25a Clicky MKII?

I’m pretty much in the same boat. I’d just like a ramping interface toykeeper style.

Illumenated
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 6 days ago
Joined: 03/21/2016 - 13:45
Posts: 265
Location: Georgia, USA

I pretty much want Toykeeper’s interface in ALL my lights

SKV89
Offline
Last seen: 26 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 12/10/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 3577
Location: US

I modded a Sofirn SF14 with a E21A 4000k on 16mm mcpcb from Virence.com. Very easy to do as all you have to do is solder the two wires. Don’t have to reflow the emitters. It is around 500 lumens on 14500. The tint is the most beautiful 4000k tint in existence. It looks almost identical to the 219B 4000k 9080. Compared with my LH351D 4000k 90CRI, it makes the LH351D look like puke green.

Another potential candidate is the Enogear 14500 stainless steel with usb recharge. It is a tiny 14500 light. The tint is decent 4000k-4500k but not as good as the Enogear AA stainless version, which is superb.

OverBudget
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 11/10/2018 - 10:57
Posts: 5
Location: Texas

Jambo wrote:
The new Eagtac D25a Clicky MKII?

I’m pretty much in the same boat. I’d just like a ramping interface toykeeper style.

I just recently got one of the new D25a MKII lights. I am really not impressed with the 14500 function of it. I bought Eagtac brand 14500s, and they are too long for the light. When used in the light, the three basic modes work fine, but to turn the head to use the turbo mode, I have to turn the head so tight that I nearly need pliers to loosen it. Maybe it would function better with a shorter 14500 battery, but it gets really hot after about a minute of use on high with the 14500, and moonlight mode turns more like medium mode, so I just put a AA in it. I got the neutral xp-l hi version, the beam is great and I’m very happy with the neutral tint, which is a warmer than my other “neutral” lights. I’m very happy with the light, just not the 14500 function of it.

JJMcGee83
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 12 hours ago
Joined: 07/14/2017 - 23:40
Posts: 32
Location: Seattle, WA

Jambo wrote:
The new Eagtac D25a Clicky MKII?

I’m pretty much in the same boat. I’d just like a ramping interface toykeeper style.

I was not aware they made a MKII… interesting.

I’ve been looking into finding a “maker space” local to me with a CNC. I figure if I can get the shape of the tube right I can find a switch, TIR lens, and emiter to stuff in it. If I can’t find what I’m gonna try making it I guess.

nick779
nick779's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 34 min ago
Joined: 03/09/2018 - 15:46
Posts: 303
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Have any of you guys with Ultratac A1s gotten them apart? Mine has some clear epoxy looking stuff around the edges of the pill and it wont budge even with tools seated firmly in the slots.

Its a pretty solid little light, I just dont like the tint.

Pages