Fireflies E07 preview

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TSO
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Firemedic wrote:
I had a similar experience, but Neil did respond several times that he was going to ship but never got a tracking #. I later ordered directly from fireflies and received a tracking number in about a week. After this I emailed Neil again about fireflies already shipping there’s that I ordered way after his and almost immediately received his tracking number. I paid for expedited shipping and it arrived in 3 days. It took a little over a month to get the fireflies light with free shipping. Neil gets his lights from fireflies directly. So that’s the wait part of buying from him. But once he gives you that tracking number you better be ready cause it comes FAST!

So Neal is waiting for Fireflies to ship to him?
That seems to make the “5-8 days shipping” a little disingenuous. Should be stated, “will reduce whatever the shipping time will be, between 1-3 months, by 5-8 days”.
I was aware of the Chinese New year situation, as it stated on Neal’s site that they would shut down “from February 1-10”. That banner was changed later to say February 1-13”. I guess I was just expecting some notification by now.

nokoff
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Drop-shipping 101. He should just have Fireflies ship it for him once he gets the order.

did I just make a funny

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mortuus
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Neal just acts a middlehand having his own store, so i guess whne he is out of lights he must wait until FF sends him a new batch of lights to him ? i guess they do business different in china.

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nokoff
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I think theyre both slow lol

Nokoff..still Made in China 山寨主義

Firemedic
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Well luckily I ordered both before the Chinese New Year holiday. That appears to have thrown a monkey wrench into many customers orders.

rennet
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I’m still waiting on my order too. I ordered Dec 21st from Fireflies and received a shipping notice around Dec 25th. The tracking number still just says “International item has left originating country and is en route to Canada” so who knows when it’ll actually get here.

mortuus
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rennet wrote:
I’m still waiting on my order too. I ordered Dec 21st from Fireflies and received a shipping notice around Dec 25th. The tracking number still just says “International item has left originating country and is en route to Canada” so who knows when it’ll actually get here.

wow thats crazy.. u should contact them, it would have arrived by now dont u think ?

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

rennet
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mortuus wrote:
wow thats crazy.. u should contact them, it would have arrived by now dont u think ?

Yeah, I emailed a couple days ago. No reply yet.

G.P.
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rennet wrote:
I’m still waiting on my order too. I ordered Dec 21st from Fireflies and received a shipping notice around Dec 25th. The tracking number still just says “International item has left originating country and is en route to Canada” so who knows when it’ll actually get here.

I put an order in on New Year’s Day and another on Jan 2nd. Standard shipping. Both arrived in Canada a month ago.
rennet
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G.P. wrote:
I put an order in on New Year’s Day and another on Jan 2nd. Standard shipping. Both arrived in Canada a month ago.

Yeah I kinda figure if I don’t get at least a reply within the next week or so I’ll have to file a paypal dispute.

contactcr
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Anyone with a calibrated tube/sphere have a nichia e07? What is the 1×7135 lumens? The mode that comes on after you redo the tail cap by default.

Firemedic
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Ok, finished my E07 led swap today. Nichia’s in the clear ano light now. This install
went much smoother than my first. Both have layer of thermal paste now. I noticed there has to be some variance in the drivers because the nichia E07 moonlight mode is now the dimmest. I thought it was the nichia/XPL thing before now. I may try some beam shot/tint comparisons later.

contactcr
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I suspect you changed the floor setting (by mistake) on the brighter one. Go through the steps to set it back to 1, but it may or may not flicker a bit on that low of setting

tundraotto
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Isn’t the brightness difference due to the XPL being much more efficient in lumens/watt compared to the nichia? ie. for the same milliamps and volts the XPL will be brighter.

contactcr
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He swapped the LEDs and the issue did not go with them. So presumably it’s a hardware (7135) variation or firmware (floor setting) difference.

Firemedic
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Lol, I did. No flicker, but that’s the floor on both. One click on both setting up floor.

Firemedic
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My previous post will show the XPL moonlight lower than the nichia before the swap. I think it’s got to be something with the driver

DB Custom
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It’s those small variances in componentry that cause it to be difficult to pre-set moon… they just aren’t all the same.

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That's why I made moon mode level configurable - I got lights with a "glow" for moon light PWM level 3, some work decently, others don't light up at all on PWM level 3. Also some work at level 2, and I think at level 1, some don't.

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I managed to reduce the hardware sensitivity of moon level, but didn’t eliminate the issue entirely. The method for doing this is to underclock the MCU at the lowest few levels, which makes each pulse longer but farther apart. The overall brightness is similar, but it’s less volatile, less variable from one chip to the next.

Comparing the two methods…

Adjustable moon at full speed:

  • + Moon level can be lower.
  • + Moon level can be somewhat more consistent from one light to the next, if each one is calibrated individually.
  • + Virtually impossible to detect any PWM.
  • - Moon may be fine on a full battery, but may not illuminate at all on a low battery.
  • - Generally requires calibration for each individual light.
  • - Uses about 5 to 6 mA of power, even at the lowest moon level.

Dynamic underclocking:

  • + Less sensitive to subtle hardware changes, so moon level is more consistent from one light to the next.
  • + Less sensitive to battery voltage, so moon level is more consistent as the battery gets low.
  • + Uses about 1.2 to 2.2 mA of power, so moon runtime is typically about 3X longer. The next few low modes also have increased runtime.
  • - Not adjustable for each individual light.
  • - Moon level may be higher than desired.
  • - PWM might be visible for a few people… though it’s still invisible to most.

Six of one, half a dozen of another. Different people choose different tradeoffs. Perhaps in the future we’ll use MCUs with more pins and we can have a dedicated power channel for moon… like how the lighted button works. Or the button channel could be used for moon instead. This would provide even higher efficiency, with no PWM.

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Still waiting for word on copper and/or titanium version!

Firemedic
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Just a few xpl hi 5000k and nichia 219b comparisons.
White door plus shadows from chandelier
Xpl light
Nichia light
Room chandelier light on wood dressers
Xpl on dresser
Nichia on dresser
Love the throw/lumen power of the xpl, but the nichia really makes the browns and reds look deep and vibrant. On turbo the xpl looks “to the eye” double the lumen output of the nichias. You can see the xpl has tighter hot spot also. I’m glad I have both. If they start matching the button leds with the aux lights, other than purple, I may be getting the sst model. It’s just hard to beat the the amazing output of the XPL HI emitters they offer.

Firemedic
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If you adjust your aux lights make sure you don’t use any precision screwdrivers. One of mine broke off when trying to adjust with a micro screwdriver. Be gentle and use your finger or maybe a pencil eraser for grip. I thought I saw a slit for a micro screwdriver in the center but it isn’t. So be careful. I ended up dripping a solder blob to obtain max brightness back on and now the only way to dim is remove that blob……

dotBLF
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Firemedic wrote:
If you adjust your aux lights make sure you don’t use any precision screwdrivers. One of mine broke off when trying to adjust with a micro screwdriver. Be gentle and use your finger or maybe a pencil eraser for grip. I thought I saw a slit for a micro screwdriver in the center but it isn’t. So be careful. I ended up dripping a solder blob to obtain max brightness back on and now the only way to dim is remove that blob……

+1

Thanks for the tip Firemedic, I totally would have done the same thing!!!!

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Edited below to add measurements with Lishen LR2170SF and Samsung 50E. I believe the LR2170SF is the best cell for the 219B version eventhough it outputs the same as the 50E at full charge, but as the battery depletes, the LR2170SF will be able to output higher than the 50E.

SKV89 wrote:
Here are a few more measurements of three more E07 using Samsung 30T.

E07 SST-20 4000k, emitters swapped by Texas_Ace (different batch of SST-20): Samsung 30T 4,845 lumens
E07 SST-20 4000k: Samsung 30T 4,888 lumens; Lishen LR2170SF 4,319; Samsung 50E 4,095
E07 XP-L HI 4000k v2 5A, heavily used: Samsung 30T 6,465 lumens;

SKV89 wrote:
I took more measurements and here are the lumen results for 4 different E07:

E07 XP-L HI 6500kQSO VTC6A 6,681; 30T 6,983
E07 XP-L HI 5000kQSO VTC6A 6,551; Vapcell VTC6A 6,379; 30T 6,733; Vapcell 40T 6,810
E07 XP-L HI 5000kQSO VTC6A 6,586; Vapcell VTC6A 6,630; 30T 7,327; Vapcell 40T 7,017; QSO 40T 6,983; LG M50 5,353; Lishen LR2170SF 5,866; Samsung 50E 5,268
E07 219B sw45k 9080 – Vapcell VTC6A 3,707; 30T 4,301 (quickly dropping); Vapcell 40T 3,741; NCR21700A button top 2,828; LG M50 3,233; Lishen LR2170SF 3,450, Samsung 50E 3,449

For some reason, I cannot reproduce the 7,570 lumen measurement again. The unit I measured 7,570 now only makes 7,357 lumens. Not sure if the emitters already degraded from me constantly blasting turbo or is it due to some other reason. I’m surprised the XP-L HI v3 6500k unit is not as bright as one of the XP-L HI v2 5000k unit.

I think the 40T is the ideal battery for the XP-L HI version. For the 219B version, I would think the NCR21700A recessed top with 15A would be the best battery but I don’t have a charger that can charge the recessed top and the soldered button top version adds an incredible amount of resistance. Otherwise the LG M50 is not bad for the 219B. The 40T might be pushing it too hard in the long run.

Also I really like the look of this light. The knurling and the very deep and functional heat fins look great. Most of the weight is in the head of the light where it is needed most for heat sinking. Jack said he designed the final prototype with super thick 8mm shelf. I couldn’t measure it but with the optics removed, it seems the shelf is probably not that thick but without removing the mcpcb and driver I can’t say for sure. But it did look like Fireflies listened to our request to increase surface area and mass in the head for better heat sinking and dissipation.

Machining quality is not as good as the Emisar series but not too bad. The clear anodizing version is OMG beautiful and a must have for anyone’s collection. Now I’m patiently waiting for a copper version.

One suggested improvement is to find or make an optic with larger TIR cups for more focused beam. There’s too much wasted space between the cups. Otherwise, I think the size of this optic can fit 10 cups and emitters for an even more amazing flooder good for 10k real OTF lumens.

Overall, this is the best pocketable EDC I’ve seen to date. It is also BY FAR the brightest single cell production flashlight in the world. It is twice as bright as the previous record holder, which is the Emisar D4S.

xevious
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Fantastic work, Firemedic. Thumbs Up

mortuus
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does samsung 50e really fit this light ? 40t seems like a tight fit.

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noboneshotdog
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mortuus wrote:
does samsung 50e really fit this light ? 40t seems like a tight fit.

Yes, I’m using mine with the 50E and 48G with perfect fit and electrical connection.

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

mortuus
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okay good to know.

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noboneshotdog
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