I recently received a Fireflies ROT66 Nichia 219B from Nealsgadgets. This is my first light with excellent tint and my first Anduril light.
I am super-impressed by Anduril’s flickering candlelight mode. It is surprisingly convincing, and I find it pleasing to use as ambient lighting at night for various tasks. It’s not trivial to get code like this right.
The ROT66 demonstrates to me the importance of a light’s UI. As I might acquire more lights, I am inclined to stick with Anduril. Is there a list of lights that run Anduril?
By the way, see my post in the ROT66 thread about something I don’t understand about Anduril’s thermal control.
Recently I’ve been thinking about posting the same question about which lights run (or can be made to run) Andúril. My brain is small, and almost full, and I don’t have room left to memorise too many UIs.
I flashed my Emisar DS4 with Andúril. I needed some (cheap) kit you can buy on-line, my PC, a file with the Andúril UI (Thanks TK!), but did not need to do any (de-)soldering or take light apart (except to unscrew the head).
I read the Emisar D4 can be flashed with Andúril, but this seems to require (de-)soldering two wires and forcing out the (glued in?) driver/chip board (as well as some cheap kit, PC, and UI code.) Not yet tried this with my D4.
If we can make a list would it be useful to classify the light as, say, stock Andúril, or easily flashed (no soldering required), or some soldering required, or major surgery required … ?
Well, he asked “Is there a list of lights that run Anduril?” And those light do. Most of them are not born with it. But they are capable of running Anduril
True, that's the pre-configured list but there are way more lights than can run Anduril with a custom driver - I know I got a ton capable with driver replacements, like the Amutorch AX3, The Eagle Eye X1R, NightWatch NA40, just to name a few recent ones...
I’d welcome a list of lights that come with some version of TK’s software already installed.
I know manufacturers/sellers change this without notice or label sometimes.
The 3 FireFlies shipping today, and eventual BLF FW3A, and the Sofirn SP36 I believe will be transitioning.
All the IOS lights appear to be listed as a special version called RampingIOS, actually a name I made up, because it was ramping for IOS (Hank at Intl-Outdoor Store). Funny because I only created that name as a folder on my computer to differentiate Hank's IOS version.
Well, I've updated the firmware in a D4Ti recently. Desolder the 2 LED wires on the MCPCB, used a solder pick tool in the center MCPCB hole to poke out the driver, breaking the glue bond -- must be very careful not to damage IC's though. I'm at an advantage in that if I do damage the driver, I can always replace it, or repair/replace the parts... The space in the pill is extremely tight in height so the LED wires have to be short -- this is why you need to de-solder them. There's no space whatsoever for extra wire to be coiled up in there.
I did remove the switch but would not suggest it -- I scratched up the copper with the knife blade I used and had to do a lot of sanding/polishing to work it out. It came out very well though, and now I have a "no-glue" driver. Ohhh - forgot, but one of the switch wires came off and that's why I had to remove the switch ()
Well, I used the blade method - you work on prying the retainer ring up by slowly working a fairly good knife blade under it. Think Vinh does the same thing, others too. Not good on soft copper but works well with hard ano surfaces. Think I used a high qual blade in a utility knife. Start with that and once you open up a gap, you can switch to something thicker, stronger.
Lots of patients - slow go. Think I first heard of it wayy back on a Olight 18650 tube light, or smaller, not sure. Probably info on it here on BLF but dunno where.
fireflight2 has a good walk through somewhere, I used a small flat screwdriver between the rubber boot and the switch bezel. Small twists, and work your way around the bezel.
Thanks, may need to give it a go if my switch wire gets pulled out again. I managed to solder it back without removing the switch but it wasn’t easy. Doesn’t sound like removing the switch is any easier either though!
I do need to find some very fine wire though. There really isn’t any room in there!
Ohh, I use 30 AWG wires for switches and AUX LED's, silicone coated, multi-stranded. I found sources, think on eBay and have an assortment of colors -- I use it often, and the wire strippers usually go down as small as 30 AWG.
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