I have been on a modding spree lately (since I got my hot plate) and have replaced some XP-G emitters with Nichia 219B sw45k. The result is of course not as bright, but with a lot higher CRI and nice tint.
I have now opened a couple of my Olights, to realize they use XM-L2 emitters, which are larger and incompatible with my stock of Nichia 219B sw45k.
What emitter do you suggest I use to achieve similar results and where would I be able to purchase it?
Many thanks.
Samsung LD351D
Did you mean an LH351D? Not an XM-L2 package.
I had the same issue. Most people, myself included, have had to file down a separate mcpcb to fit within the Olight body and then somehow reduce the internal thickness, either by filing down the pcb itself or the plastic retaining cup like I did. Here’s the post detailing a couple tidbits. I believe there are some high CRI 5050 emitters like the one used in the HCRI S1 Mini but some have mentioned it’s rather green and lackluster.
I do however support Lexel’s suggestion for an LH351D. I swapped to the 5000k variant after using the 219B 5700k I had initially installed for a little while. One added bonus with filing down the cup was that as the Samsung’s dome is larger than the Nichia’s and sits further into the TIR, the broad beam hotspot Olights are known for is a bit wider, which I like.
Now if I could only find a way to open up my S2R II without totally ruining the bezel ring or optic…
Left: S1R II w/LH351D 5000K
Right: S2R II w/stock SST-40 6500K+
Thank you both!
I would rather there was a 5050 emitter to fit the existing mcpcb than swap the mcpcb.
Not because of the extra work involved, but mostly because I do not like the thermal considerations detailed in the linked post above. I do not mind the light not beeing 1000 lumens, but I want to be able to use the turbo mode normally, for the full 1,5min, with no issues.
I have the S1Mini HCRI and the green tint is killing me. Unfortuantelly both it and my S2R Baton 2 have resisted my efforts to pry them open. Thankfully, with no marks, but I am at a loss on how to open them. I have seen the relevant videos and I have the Mechtorch wrenches which are perfect for the job but a thick glove, the Mechtorch wrenches and a deadblow hammer did not do it for me. They just left marks on the non visible black plastic on the inside of the tube (which I knew they would but as the plastic is not visible, I do not mind) without budging the retaining ring at all.
For opening the Olights that have a protruding retaining ring, after using a thin sharp razor, I do not use a knife, but insted a plastic razor, cut in half, lenghwise. That way I can hammer on the blunt edge and have the “sharp” edge in the openning made by the steel razor. I has worked like a charm for both lights I have opened.
It is just that they are still waiting, open, for a new emitter…
The thermal consideration was primarily due to the type of emitter. Nichia emitters are notorious for running hot and not having the best efficiency. The LH351D does run cooler than the 219B, however it is still a little warmer than the XM-L2.
I just did a turbo test. At 30-40 seconds with the 219B it would get extremely uncomfortable to hold and I wouldn’t trust running it longer than that.
Conversely at 80-90 seconds with the LH351D it was still warm, but completely fine to hold.
How come the light gets hotter though?
The driver isn’t a constant current driver, but rather a constant voltage driver?
If so, no wonder does the 219B get super hot. Its forward voltage is super low compared to the LH351D 90CRI, and especially the XM-L2 70CRI.
IMO, that means the driver isn’t actually all that well designed.
Does anyone know if the LH351D 90CRI sits above or below the black body line? I would like the emitter I use as neutral as possible, but below the line, as I prefer a magenda tint to a green one.
So no 5050 alternatives then?