Anduril Firmware Flashing - Emisar D4S

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funkychateau
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Location: Dallas, Texas
Anduril Firmware Flashing - Emisar D4S

Is there anyone in the Dallas/Ft Worth or Austin, Texas area who is experienced in flashing the D4S? I’m hoping to find someone willing to assist or hold my hand for a first-time update on my unit. I’m interested in playing around with some mods to Anduril, but I don’t want to turn my flashlight into a brick in the process.

I’ll buy whatever hardware I need, I’ll travel to you, and I’ll bring the beer.

f0xx
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Joined: 02/27/2019 - 18:44
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Location: Near Dallas, Texas

I have flashed a grand total of one (1) D4S to Anduril. It was pretty straightforward, but I did have a little bit of trouble getting my pins to stay in the programming holes at first.

I relied pretty heavily on this post: BLF Link

I used ToyKeeper’s pre-made binary file (latest D4S “.hex” and make sure you get the Nichia version if that is what you have so you don’t burn the emitters, otherwise the non-Nichia version should be what you are looking for). If you want to edit the code and compile (not sure if this is the right wording..) a custom version of Anduril yourself, there are others more qualified to help than I. I think I’ve seen some threads with ToyKeeper discussing this subject.

I got all my hardware from Amazon because I wasn’t willing to wait for over a month to get it from China just to save a tiny bit (Prime gets most things to me within a day here in Dallas). I bought a SOIC clip too, but I didn’t use that on this light. I just used a male to female dupont connector (or I think 6 technically) from the USBASP to the D4S like that post suggests, but mine were slightly too big to insert into the programming holes. I got it to work eventually by holding the pin close to the end with a pair of curved needle-nose pliers and pressing firmly. The pins had just enough purchase to stay in place while I flashed it. There may be a more elegant way to do this (pogo pins or something similar..) but for a one-time flash this worked well enough. Make sure you run the command to test the connection BEFORE flashing.. I checked it several times because I am paranoid. If that command comes back successfully, then you can flash. I’ll see if I can find the post I followed for this step.

As far as the computer part goes, I didn’t want to muck about with Windows driver signatures, so I grabbed a copy of the latest Ubuntu and threw it on a cheapo laptop I had laying around (working in IT has some fun benefits). I will have to look around to find the info on installing the necessary tools for flashing in Ubuntu, but everything I needed was installed with apt.. simple as “sudo apt install fubar (or whatever the tools were called)”. Windows will work too, but if your computer skills are a little light I’d recommend using one that isn’t critical in case the drivers give you issues.

I am happy to answer any questions that I’m able to. Probably can’t do anything in person right now because I’m finishing up several projects for work so I can celebrate my anniversary with the wife (probably going to the gulf for some deep sea fishing if things work out timing wise).

funkychateau
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Joined: 07/01/2018 - 02:05
Posts: 85
Location: Dallas, Texas

f0xx wrote:
I have flashed a grand total of one (1) D4S to Anduril. It was pretty straightforward, but I did have a little bit of trouble getting my pins to stay in the programming holes at first.

I relied pretty heavily on this post: BLF Link

I used ToyKeeper’s pre-made binary file (latest D4S “.hex” and make sure you get the Nichia version if that is what you have so you don’t burn the emitters, otherwise the non-Nichia version should be what you are looking for). If you want to edit the code and compile (not sure if this is the right wording..) a custom version of Anduril yourself, there are others more qualified to help than I. I think I’ve seen some threads with ToyKeeper discussing this subject.

I got all my hardware from Amazon because I wasn’t willing to wait for over a month to get it from China just to save a tiny bit (Prime gets most things to me within a day here in Dallas). I bought a SOIC clip too, but I didn’t use that on this light. I just used a male to female dupont connector (or I think 6 technically) from the USBASP to the D4S like that post suggests, but mine were slightly too big to insert into the programming holes. I got it to work eventually by holding the pin close to the end with a pair of curved needle-nose pliers and pressing firmly. The pins had just enough purchase to stay in place while I flashed it. There may be a more elegant way to do this (pogo pins or something similar..) but for a one-time flash this worked well enough. Make sure you run the command to test the connection BEFORE flashing.. I checked it several times because I am paranoid. If that command comes back successfully, then you can flash. I’ll see if I can find the post I followed for this step.

As far as the computer part goes, I didn’t want to muck about with Windows driver signatures, so I grabbed a copy of the latest Ubuntu and threw it on a cheapo laptop I had laying around (working in IT has some fun benefits). I will have to look around to find the info on installing the necessary tools for flashing in Ubuntu, but everything I needed was installed with apt.. simple as “sudo apt install fubar (or whatever the tools were called)”. Windows will work too, but if your computer skills are a little light I’d recommend using one that isn’t critical in case the drivers give you issues.

I am happy to answer any questions that I’m able to. Probably can’t do anything in person right now because I’m finishing up several projects for work so I can celebrate my anniversary with the wife (probably going to the gulf for some deep sea fishing if things work out timing wise).

Thanks very much for the detailed response! I read it last week, but I was on travel and it is tedious to respond using only my phone. I had read that post also, I just lacked the confidence to jump in without a little hand-holding (and possibly ruin my light).

I would prefer to use windows XP or windows 7, as those are the OS I have on machines at my home. I’m actually an electrical engineer, but not of the software/computer variety. The computer is just a platform that allows me to run design and analysis software, LOL.

I appreciate the offer to answer questions, as I will probably need a little more help. I’m going to start ordering hardware as soon as I get back from this next trip (leaving tomorrow and returning to Dallas May 27). My SO has Amazon Prime, so maybe that will help.

thanks again!

Martin