FW1A with a XHP50.2 feeler list

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M4D M4X
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FW1A with a XHP50.2 feeler list

Hello my dear friends!

Maybe you did not find a FW3A variant that fits your needs?
Maybe you just want them all??

Soooooo:
Here is a feeler with the chance, that your wish could be reality…
(you can skip the email part and post below: "please PM me when its alive!"

 

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Form until 02.10.2019 20:59:17
166 answers
(15 NO) 

requested a PN: until

mopar440_6

firedome

Unloco

 jonxxn

mikeyx

atobe

gottawearshades

cabfrank

Pistonsandgears

 

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id30209
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Noicee

Submited

WTB Titanium 4sevens Quarks & Jetbeam TCR1

BOO5TED
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I’d buy one but in titanium just because lol.

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BurningPlayd0h
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An uglier beam and worse tint vs basically any of the options available for the FW3X, I’ll pass. Doubt it would out-throw the XPL HI or SST-20 even with a reflector.

mopar440_6
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Interested just cause I want them all. PM me if it happens.

jmd4tide
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I want them all! (I know it’s a problem.)

Mark Duran

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I love XHP50/70, I will make frosted glass for it and it will be perfect!
But I would prefer in a classic body Lumintop.

Sorry for my poor english.

firedome
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Nice, please PM me when its alive!

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XHP50.2 in 21700 + OP reflector with copper pill + without trit holes so head’s wall could be thinner
This is my idea Party

varbos
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What are the pro’s and cons of an XHP50.2 versus the existing options ?

M4D M4X
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not as bright but tighter as the FW3A i think
but not as tight (but brighter) ad the XP-L HI in the first FW1A

 

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the best deals are waiting for YOU!

 

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Di_Joker
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varbos wrote:
What are the pro’s and cons of an XHP50.2 versus the existing options ?

The main and decisive advantage of the XHP50/70 is that it is noticeably less heated and long runtime.
You can shine for a long time 1000Lm without stepdowns until you run out of battery and your hand burns.
According to my rough estimates, one XHP50/70 is comparable as 7-9 3535LED in modes up to 1000Lm. And in turbo XHP50 it is comparable as a triple, in turbo XHP70 is comparable as a quadruple.
If you do not like the light of the reflector compared to the TIR-optics of the triple, then you can replace the transparent glass with frosted glass or use a frosted film for lamination. It will turn out a very flood light.

Sorry for my poor english.

KnHawke
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Mocarny wrote:
XHP50.2 in 21700 + OP reflector with copper pill + without trit holes so head’s wall could be thinner This is my idea Party

Ooooo! Seconded!

kiriba-ru
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Di_Joker wrote:
varbos wrote:
What are the pro’s and cons of an XHP50.2 versus the existing options ?

The main and decisive advantage of the XHP50/70 is that it is noticeably less heated and long runtime.
You can shine for a long time 1000Lm without stepdowns until you run out of battery and your hand burns.
According to my rough estimates, one XHP50/70 is comparable as 7-9 3535LED in modes up to 1000Lm.

One XHP50.2@1Amp have 1055 T_A lm output, 183 lm/W: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/53086
Four LH351D (@0.5Amp each) have 1124 T_A lm output, 198 lm/W: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57784
WalkIntoTheLight
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kiriba-ru wrote:
One XHP50.2@1Amp have 1055 T_A lm output, 183 lm/W: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/53086 Four LH351D (@0.5Amp each) have 1124 T_A lm output, 198 lm/W: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57784

Wow, that’s quite a huge difference in efficiency. I only have 1 XHP50.2 light, a Zebralight SC600w IV Plus, and I really like that it generates relatively little heat at similar outputs to the XHP35 Zebras I own. The tint shift of it isn’t great, though, but with a frosted lens you wouldn’t notice.

Though I’m not a fan of the quality issues the FW3A’s have experienced, a FW1A with the XHP50.2 does sound intriguing, if for no other reason than a boost in efficiency and longer run-times at high output.

WalkIntoTheLight
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Mocarny wrote:
XHP50.2 in 21700 + OP reflector with copper pill + without trit holes so head’s wall could be thinner This is my idea Party

I don’t understand the desire to put every light in a 21700 body, especially pocket-lights. It turns a small pocket light into an awkwardly large light in your pocket. Completely goes against the purpose of the FWXX. You get a modest increase in capacity over an 18650, but no where near enough to justify the decrease in usability as an EDC.

I totally understand for larger lights, like a thrower or a light meant to be hand-held on a walk. But small lights? I don’t get it.

Di_Joker
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kiriba-ru wrote:
Di_Joker wrote:
varbos wrote:
What are the pro’s and cons of an XHP50.2 versus the existing options ?

The main and decisive advantage of the XHP50/70 is that it is noticeably less heated and long runtime.
You can shine for a long time 1000Lm without stepdowns until you run out of battery and your hand burns.
According to my rough estimates, one XHP50/70 is comparable as 7-9 3535LED in modes up to 1000Lm.

One XHP50.2@1Amp have 1055 T_A lm output, 183 lm/W: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/53086
Four LH351D (@0.5Amp each) have 1124 T_A lm output, 198 lm/W: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57784

This is interesting data.
As a user, I proceed from the real temperature behavior of flashlights. I do not like to burn my hands, and I have to shine long and brightly. Most often I use a brightness of about 1000 lumens and collected some data. From these data, I concluded that the XHP50 in 1000-1200 lumens has serious advantages:
Air temperature 24°C, without cooling.
Sofirt C8F 3*XP-L(990Lm) – 58°C 20 minutes later. And (650Lm) 50°C 20 minutes later.
Sofirt SP33 1*XHP50.2(1000Lm) – 41°C 20 minutes later and 47°C 60 minutes later.
BLF Q8 4*XP-L(~1100Lm “Group6-Mid2”) – 47°C 20 minutes later.
YLP G180 9*XP-G2 (800Lm) 45°C 60 minutes later. And (1400Lm) 69°C 60 minutes later.
Wowtac A5 1*XHP70.2(1800Lm) – 58°C 20 minutes later.
Eagtac DX3B Clicky 1*XHP50.2(850Lm) – 47°C 20 minutes later.

I tested LH351D only the HI-СRI 4000K version and these flashlights were heated in about the same way XP-L 5000K.

Sorry for my poor english.

trailhunter
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KnHawke wrote:
Mocarny wrote:
XHP50.2 in 21700 + OP reflector with copper pill + without trit holes so head’s wall could be thinner This is my idea Party

Ooooo! Seconded!

This!

BurningPlayd0h
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Di_Joker wrote:
varbos wrote:
What are the pro’s and cons of an XHP50.2 versus the existing options ?
The main and decisive advantage of the XHP50/70 is that it is noticeably less heated and long runtime. You can shine for a long time 1000Lm without stepdowns until you run out of battery and your hand burns. According to my rough estimates, one XHP50/70 is comparable as 7-9 3535LED in modes up to 1000Lm. And in turbo XHP50 it is comparable as a triple, in turbo XHP70 is comparable as a quadruple. If you do not like the light of the reflector compared to the TIR-optics of the triple, then you can replace the transparent glass with frosted glass or use a frosted film forgot lamination. It will turn out a very flood light.

It would be very hard for the XHP50.2 to be as efficient as 7-9 35×35 emitters considering it’s basically 4 XP-G3s on one pad.

Di_Joker
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BurningPlayd0h][quote=Di_Joker wrote:
varbos wrote:
What are the pro’s and cons of an XHP50.2 versus the existing options ?

It would be very hard for the XHP50.2 to be as efficient as 7-9 35×35 emitters considering it’s basically 4 XP-G3s on one pad.


I can’t measure the current consumption, I can only compare the heating temperature.
Sofirt SP33 1*XHP50.2(1000Lm) – 41°C 20 minutes later and 47°C 60 minutes later.
YLP G180 9*XP-G2 (800Lm) 45°C 60 minutes later.

Sorry for my poor english.

Unloco
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please PM me when its alive!

Kulumatic
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Interesting

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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
Mocarny wrote:
XHP50.2 in 21700 + OP reflector with copper pill + without trit holes so head’s wall could be thinner This is my idea Party

I don’t understand the desire to put every light in a 21700 body, especially pocket-lights. It turns a small pocket light into an awkwardly large light in your pocket. Completely goes against the purpose of the FWXX. You get a modest increase in capacity over an 18650, but no where near enough to justify the decrease in usability as an EDC.

I totally understand for larger lights, like a thrower or a light meant to be hand-held on a walk. But small lights? I don’t get it.

Part of the reasoning is that a 21700 cell, even with the same rated capacity, holds a charge better, can push more current with far less sag and has a great deal more active development behind them these days. With a properly designed chassis, minimal size increase of 3-4mm in diameter, and at least 10mm longer, if that, plus with the increased dimensions allows for more heatsinking without it being too bulky, like a 26650.
Almost cannot wait for my Convoy s21a to come in, if only to see what an XHP50.2-J4 6V can do with it.

WalkIntoTheLight
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KnHawke wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:

I don’t understand the desire to put every light in a 21700 body, especially pocket-lights. It turns a small pocket light into an awkwardly large light in your pocket. Completely goes against the purpose of the FWXX. You get a modest increase in capacity over an 18650, but no where near enough to justify the decrease in usability as an EDC.

I totally understand for larger lights, like a thrower or a light meant to be hand-held on a walk. But small lights? I don’t get it.

Part of the reasoning is that a 21700 cell, even with the same rated capacity, holds a charge better,

Holds a charge better? I’m not sure I understand what you mean. 18650’s and 21700’s hold a charge exactly the same; they use the same chemistry.

Quote:
can push more current with far less sag

Okay, but is that really important on a EDC light? You’re not going to be running it at 10 amps for very long before it overheats.

Quote:
and has a great deal more active development behind them these days.

Well, even if that is true, I’m not going to buy a light based on what kind of battery might be available for it in a year or two. Besides, even a 3000mAh cell is more than enough for EDC use. On one of my Zebralights, that gives me 6 hours of run-time at about 300 lumens (regulated).

Quote:
With a properly designed chassis, minimal size increase of 3-4mm in diameter, and at least 10mm longer, if that, plus with the increased dimensions allows for more heatsinking without it being too bulky, like a 26650.

I think this is where we disagree, and it’s a personal preference. To me, adding 10mm in length and 3-4mm in diameter, no longer means it’s an EDC light. It might be a great light for carrying while walking, or for sticking in a coat pocket, but it’s too bulky for my pants pocket, even on a clip.

All that said, I don’t find the FW3A any good for EDC anyway. I tried it, but got way too many accidental button-presses that turned on the light without me noticing. Very bad switch design for EDC, in my opinion.

So, I’m almost changing my mind, and agreeing with you that a 21700 version might be okay. Since I can’t EDC it anyway, perhaps a larger version with better heat dissipation could be useful.

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intrested, if we get a Aluminium Body with copper pill Wink

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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
KnHawke wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:

I don’t understand the desire to put every light in a 21700 body, especially pocket-lights. It turns a small pocket light into an awkwardly large light in your pocket. Completely goes against the purpose of the FWXX. You get a modest increase in capacity over an 18650, but no where near enough to justify the decrease in usability as an EDC.

I totally understand for larger lights, like a thrower or a light meant to be hand-held on a walk. But small lights? I don’t get it.

Part of the reasoning is that a 21700 cell, even with the same rated capacity, holds a charge better,

Holds a charge better? I’m not sure I understand what you mean. 18650’s and 21700’s hold a charge exactly the same; they use the same chemistry.

Quote:
can push more current with far less sag

Okay, but is that really important on a EDC light? You’re not going to be running it at 10 amps for very long before it overheats.

Quote:
and has a great deal more active development behind them these days.

Well, even if that is true, I’m not going to buy a light based on what kind of battery might be available for it in a year or two. Besides, even a 3000mAh cell is more than enough for EDC use. On one of my Zebralights, that gives me 6 hours of run-time at about 300 lumens (regulated).

Quote:
With a properly designed chassis, minimal size increase of 3-4mm in diameter, and at least 10mm longer, if that, plus with the increased dimensions allows for more heatsinking without it being too bulky, like a 26650.

I think this is where we disagree, and it’s a personal preference. To me, adding 10mm in length and 3-4mm in diameter, no longer means it’s an EDC light. It might be a great light for carrying while walking, or for sticking in a coat pocket, but it’s too bulky for my pants pocket, even on a clip.

All that said, I don’t find the FW3A any good for EDC anyway. I tried it, but got way too many accidental button-presses that turned on the light without me noticing. Very bad switch design for EDC, in my opinion.

So, I’m almost changing my mind, and agreeing with you that a 21700 version might be okay. Since I can’t EDC it anyway, perhaps a larger version with better heat dissipation could be useful.

Okay then Smile
This is where the technicalities of a lot of batteries will get ya:
The actual rating is how long the battery lasts at a set current, about 500mA or so. When you pull more than that, the actual mAH Rating goes way down on an 18650, less so on a 21700 or a 26650. The chemistry is also a bit of a Misnomer, because of the materials used for the Anode and Cathodes, can be a bit crazy once ya dig into it a bit Wink
Lastly, the Voltage Sag is very important on anything with a Voltage Boost, helps keeps the efficiency rating of the driver up, kinda pointless if you have a 3V Buck, PWM or something.

Anyhow, I’m leaning to agree with ya about the FW3A 21700, too thick in the barrel for me to EDC, which is why I’ve went with the Convoy S21A for my own custom build, and would only be marginally bigger than the Sofirn SP31A.V2 I EDC atm

BurningPlayd0h
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KnHawke wrote:

The actual rating is how long the battery lasts at a set current, about 500mA or so. When you pull more than that, the actual mAH Rating goes way down on an 18650, less so on a 21700 or a 26650.

That’s only true of extremely low drain cells, see for yourself: https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php

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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:

All that said, I don’t find the FW3A any good for EDC anyway. I tried it, but got way too many accidental button-presses that turned on the light without me noticing. Very bad switch design for EDC, in my opinion.

Out of curiosity, what light do you EDC?

Mocarny
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
Mocarny wrote:
XHP50.2 in 21700 + OP reflector with copper pill + without trit holes so head’s wall could be thinner This is my idea Party

I don’t understand the desire to put every light in a 21700 body, especially pocket-lights. It turns a small pocket light into an awkwardly large light in your pocket. Completely goes against the purpose of the FWXX. You get a modest increase in capacity over an 18650, but no where near enough to justify the decrease in usability as an EDC.

I totally understand for larger lights, like a thrower or a light meant to be hand-held on a walk. But small lights? I don’t get it.


Compare size of Imalent DM70 – 21700 with…e.g Wuben E10 – 18650. DM70 is even shorter, and tube diameter is the same. S2+ is 3mm shorter and 1mm thinner, so DM70 is not that bigger. So it is possible to make a 21700 the same size as a “standard” 18650.

FW1A 21700 without trit holes would be smaller, IMO it would be nice to have FW1A 18650 XPL or SST, and FW1A 21700 XHP50.2

Btw, where do you need more than 1200lm in your small EDC pocket light?

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 lists updated

 

already member of M4DM4X.com ?

the best deals are waiting for YOU!

 

before you buy elsewhere mail me: MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

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