[M4D deal] Nightwatch NI40 with Luminus SBT90 Gen2 interest list OPEN

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makapuu
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Th558 wrote:
BaronVonEissler wrote:
Th558 wrote:
Cloud wrote:
How do you enter the turbo on NI40 with SBT90.2?? Instructions says double click. I have been messing with it for 15 minutes and still can’t figure out from which mode double click turns on the turbo. Was able to access it a few times though Does anyone know?
People on TLF are saying you have to take the rubber out and shorten it by 1mm to get the switch to function properly. https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/nightwatch-ni40-mit-luminus-s...

Unbelievable! Great quality control! Does not sound like an isolated incident, more like a defect.

I think I will sell the light to my cousin Otto just for the LED.
It’s pretty easy to fix but yh it shouldn’t come like that from the factory.

Exactly, I pointed out this problem to them on 11/3/19 on Post # 152 before the 2nd batch was sent out.
I have yet to hear a response. In the mean time, I’ve been reading some comments that Neal doesn’t answer his emails.
You need to contact him through FB, but he may or may not reply. I find that a little disturbing.
What’s going to happen if you get a defective unit and you need to get the issue resolved.
If someone doesn’t respond to a inquiry that would lead to a potential sale, I would think it would be a nightmare if you need to make some sort of claim for a replacement or refund.

BaronVonEissler
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makapuu wrote:
Th558 wrote:
BaronVonEissler wrote:
Th558 wrote:
Cloud wrote:
How do you enter the turbo on NI40 with SBT90.2?? Instructions says double click. I have been messing with it for 15 minutes and still can’t figure out from which mode double click turns on the turbo. Was able to access it a few times though Does anyone know?
People on TLF are saying you have to take the rubber out and shorten it by 1mm to get the switch to function properly. https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/nightwatch-ni40-mit-luminus-s...

Unbelievable! Great quality control! Does not sound like an isolated incident, more like a defect.

I think I will sell the light to my cousin Otto just for the LED.
It’s pretty easy to fix but yh it shouldn’t come like that from the factory.

Exactly, I pointed out this problem to them on 11/3/19 on Post # 152 before the 2nd batch was sent out.
I have yet to hear a response. In the mean time, I’ve been reading some comments that Neal doesn’t answer his emails.
You need to contact him through FB, but he may or may not reply. I find that a little disturbing.
What’s going to happen if you get a defective unit and you need to get the issue resolved.
If someone doesn’t respond to a inquiry that would lead to a potential sale, I would think it would be a nightmare if you need to make some sort of claim for a replacement or refund.

I agree. For me, I would just take the loss even though I do not want to. It would NOT be worth the frustration in waiting for a response. If he does not answer simple questions from many of us, why would we expect him to respond when a light has an issue?

This is my first experience with a GB with him,,,and most assuredly my last.

Streamtronics
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Or you could pay via paypal and open a dispute if the seller doesn't reply. That usually motivates sellers quite a lot...

mxyzptlk
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Th558 wrote:
BaronVonEissler wrote:

What do you mean when you say we have to “take the rubber out?”,The rubber boot off the switch? A rubber o’ring or something within the switch?
The rubber that covers the switch. It seems like what they’re saying is cut 1mm of the inside part of the rubber that touches the switch.

This is the quote from Duke on TLF:
I shortened the Nubsie in the switch rubber by ~ 1mm, which was too tight for me.
Now it’s better

Have no idea what a Nubsie is. Googled it and it doesn’t seem to be a word in English or german. Well there’s no translation anyway. Maybe it’s a spelling mistake.

A Nubsie is a little rised pin or a very small button, in this case, inside the rubber cover.

Wieselflinkpro
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Th558 wrote:
BaronVonEissler wrote:

What do you mean when you say we have to “take the rubber out?”,The rubber boot off the switch? A rubber o’ring or something within the switch?
The rubber that covers the switch. It seems like what they’re saying is cut 1mm of the inside part of the rubber that touches the switch.

This is the quote from Duke on TLF:
I shortened the Nubsie in the switch rubber by ~ 1mm, which was too tight for me.
Now it’s better

Have no idea what a Nubsie is. Googled it and it doesn’t seem to be a word in English or german. Well there’s no translation anyway. Maybe it’s a spelling mistake.


Take the Rubber-Part of the Switch out. Press it fully, that the cylinder-part comes out and shorten it a bit.

Look at the picture at kaidomain
Make “h”-measurement a bit bigger.

Nubsie is bad slang. It can be translated with nipple.

BaronVonEissler
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Th558 wrote:
BaronVonEissler wrote:

What do you mean when you say we have to “take the rubber out?”,The rubber boot off the switch? A rubber o’ring or something within the switch?
The rubber that covers the switch. It seems like what they’re saying is cut 1mm of the inside part of the rubber that touches the switch.

This is the quote from Duke on TLF:
I shortened the Nubsie in the switch rubber by ~ 1mm, which was too tight for me.
Now it’s better

Have no idea what a Nubsie is. Googled it and it doesn’t seem to be a word in English or german. Well there’s no translation anyway. Maybe it’s a spelling mistake.


Take the Rubber-Part of the Switch out. Press it fully, that the cylinder-part comes out and shorten it a bit.

Look at the picture at kaidomain
Make “h”-measurement a bit bigger.

Nubsie is bad slang. It can be translated with nipple.

I want to Thank the last Three people from Germany,,,,,,,my cousins! Cool

Link does not work,,“Page Not Found”..now it works,.

What do you mean, “Make “H“measurement bigger? I thought a piece was suppose to be trimmed/removed[1mm]?

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BaronVonEissler wrote:
Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Th558 wrote:
BaronVonEissler wrote:

What do you mean when you say we have to “take the rubber out?”,The rubber boot off the switch? A rubber o’ring or something within the switch?
The rubber that covers the switch. It seems like what they’re saying is cut 1mm of the inside part of the rubber that touches the switch.

This is the quote from Duke on TLF:
I shortened the Nubsie in the switch rubber by ~ 1mm, which was too tight for me.
Now it’s better

Have no idea what a Nubsie is. Googled it and it doesn’t seem to be a word in English or german. Well there’s no translation anyway. Maybe it’s a spelling mistake.


Take the Rubber-Part of the Switch out. Press it fully, that the cylinder-part comes out and shorten it a bit.

Look at the picture at kaidomain
Make “h”-measurement a bit bigger.

Nubsie is bad slang. It can be translated with nipple.

I want to Thank the last Three people from Germany,,,,,,,my cousins! Cool

Link does not work,,“Page Not Found”..now it works,.

What do you mean, “Make “H“measurement bigger? I thought a piece was suppose to be trimmed/removed[1mm]?


No, he said make “h” dimension bigger (lower case h in that drawing) That is the dimension between the “nubbin” and the bottom of the switch boot- in other words, trim the nubbin in the middle underneath back.
BaronVonEissler
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^^^^

I understand what your saying. Big Smile

Look at his quote above and you will see that I quoted what he said!

This is what he said:

“Look at the picture at kaidomain
Make “h”-measurement a bit bigger.”

,Just a language barrier with a few words! Nipple is what we would say,,never heard of nubsie!

mr_magoo
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BaronVonEissler wrote:
^^^^

I understand what your saying. Big Smile

Look in his quote above and you will see that I quoted what he said!

This is what he said:

“Look at the picture at kaidomain
Make “h”-measurement a bit bigger.”


Oh, no worries..In the diagram, upper case H is different than lower case h was all I was saying.

I do hope mine works right..otherwise I’ll be sourcing another driver. I do really like the size if the light- it’s about as big of a jacket pocket light that id want.

djozz
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I’m glad that this problem occurred, or I would have to live my life without ever knowing this great word “nubsie”. Smile

Cloud
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I’m driving but. I still have to figure out what needs to be trimmed or made bigger! I guess I’ll try to trim the h dimension . How do I get the rubber button cover out. Just pull out from the end of the light by force? Will I easily be able to put it back in after? Thanks

djozz
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Cloud wrote:
I’m driving but. I still have to figure out what needs to be trimmed or made bigger! I guess I’ll try to trim the h dimension . How do I get the rubber button cover out. Just pull out from the end of the light by force? Will I easily be able to put it back in after? Thanks

You will easily find out yourself Smile
But to ease your mind a bit: likely when you look on the inside of the tail section you will see a ring that has two little opposite holes. Stick something in those holes (tweezers or pointy pliers or whatever) and unscrew that ring. Now you can pull the board with switch out and under that you will find the switch cover. Cut a mm off the nubsie ( Party ) and reverse everything until the tail is whole again.
Cloud
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djozz wrote:
Cloud wrote:
I’m driving but. I still have to figure out what needs to be trimmed or made bigger! I guess I’ll try to trim the h dimension . How do I get the rubber button cover out. Just pull out from the end of the light by force? Will I easily be able to put it back in after? Thanks

You will easily find out yourself Smile
But to ease your mind a bit: likely when you look on the inside of the tail section you will see a ring that has two little opposite holes. Stick something in those holes (tweezers or pointy pliers or whatever) and unscrew that ring. Now you can pull the board with switch out and under that you will find the switch cover. Cut a mm off the nubsie ( Party ) and reverse everything until the tail is whole again.

Thank you
So access the ribbber cover from the inside the light? I was hoping to just pull it out from the outside without having to mess with the ring ugghhh ok. I will report on this results of this operation!
Cloud
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https://yadi.sk/i/8CD1uvbAqNtNfg

Is this ring a regular direction thread? I tried to unscrew but it’s pretty tight. Maybe a drop of machine oil around the ring to loosen it up?

mr_magoo
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Cloud wrote:
https://yadi.sk/i/8CD1uvbAqNtNfg

Is this ring a regular direction thread? I tried to unscrew but it’s pretty tight. Maybe a drop of machine oil around the ring to loosen it up?


Just looking at the picture, yes, regular direction.
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Cloud wrote:
https://yadi.sk/i/8CD1uvbAqNtNfg

Is this ring a regular direction thread? I tried to unscrew but it’s pretty tight. Maybe a drop of machine oil around the ring to loosen it up?

From my experience most tighten clockwise, loosen counter clockwise. However, I have had a few that did the opposite. Simply try loosening it counter clockwise and if seems too tight go the other direction. That is how I had to loosen a few of them. In my opinion, oil is unnecessary, just turning it the right way should work. Big Smile

cloggy
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I tried the mod and it improves things slightly but the ui is still erratic.
I removed the brass ring with needle point pliers used anti- clockwise. The switch body then drops out with a tap to encourage it. Then the rubber cap can be pushed out. I turned the cap inside out and rubbed about a millimetre off with a sanding block. Reassembly is easy just reverse the above ensuring that the switch assembly is seated correctly. I can now get turbo with a double click but not every time.

cloggy

Cloud
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Same results here . It doesn’t matter whether the nippple was there ( h dimension) or not. It’s about how the actual switch work ( or doesn’t work) The intended purpose of cutting it down was not to push in the button as deep so it doesn’t make the full click maybe. I sometimes am able to get into turbo by pressing the rubber half way ( twice quickly) before it makes the click. Once I click( double click) I never get the turbo, but your hands have to be so fine tuned, it’s impossible to retain the same amount of force every time. The switch itself is faulty or the design of it is.
And meals site always answered thru the chat while the lights were in transit but not any more, not responding to the chat in the last 12 hrs

Cloud
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Comparison of ni40 with SBT90 gen 2 vs astrolux ft03 with hp50.2 4300 lumens

1. Size: NI40 head is smaller and it’s a bit shorter so 1 points in favor of Ni40
2. Weight :NI 40 is a bit lighter , about the same, or at least the weight is more concentrated in the hand, so 1 point for NI 40
3. FT03 has better UI, ramping , voltage meter, other functions so 1 point for FT03. Plus I don’t like tail bottoms but that’s petsonal. Anyway 1 point for astrolux
4. On turbo ( if you can switch to it) NI40 is slightly throwier than ft03 so 1 point. For NI40. The difference is not that obvious though , I believe the photos may have beeen a bit misleading
5. The faulty switch issue for NI 40to turn on turbo for a number of people is a big minus, so 1 in favor of FT03
6. Price of NI40 is about twice the price of ft03 so 1 point for ft03
7 lumen output about the same, but need to remeasure. I don’t think it reaches 5,000 lumens. It’s a tie for now. Both eat thru the battery pretty fast, output reduces when voltage drops and of course there is some battery sag on both.
8 slightly bigger hot spot for NI but bigger corona for ft03. Corona colors a bit yellowish for ft03 so.lets say it’s a tie
Stilll need to get power consumption.
9. In general brighter spill for ft03 , useful when riding or in general, making this a great combination light with a more balanced ratio between spill and flood- a p0int for ft03
10 on turbo at least NI heats up faster so a point for astrolux

So far:

5 points for FT03
3 points for Ni40

Wieselflinkpro
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Cloud wrote:
Comparison of ni40 with SBT90 gen 2 vs astrolux ft03 with hp50.2 4300 lumens

1. Size: NI40 head is smaller and it’s a bit shorter so 1 points in favor of Ni40
2. Weight :NI 40 is a bit lighter , about the same, or at least the weight is more concentrated in the hand, so 1 point for NI 40
3. FT03 has better UI, ramping , voltage meter, other functions so 1 point for FT03. Plus I don’t like tail bottoms but that’s petsonal. Anyway 1 point for astrolux
4. On turbo ( if you can switch to it) NI40 is slightly throwier than ft03 so 1 point. For NI40. The difference is not that obvious though , I believe the photos may have beeen a bit misleading
5. The faulty switch issue for NI 40to turn on turbo for a number of people is a big minus, so 1 in favor of FT03
6. Price of NI40 is about twice the price of ft03 so 1 point for ft03
7 lumen output about the same, but need to remeasure. I don’t think it reaches 5,000 lumens. It’s a tie for now. Both eat thru the battery pretty fast, output reduces when voltage drops and of course there is some battery sag on both.
8 slightly bigger hot spot for NI but bigger corona for ft03. Corona colors a bit yellowish for ft03 so.lets say it’s a tie
Stilll need to get power consumption.
9. In general brighter spill for ft03 , useful when riding or in general, making this a great combination light with a more balanced ratio between spill and flood- a p0int for ft03
10 on turbo at least NI heats up faster so a point for astrolux

So far:

5 points for FT03
3 points for Ni40

FT03 can reach 5300 Lumens or more. I have a Astrolux EC01 with 3V XHP50.2. And the Lumen rised from 4300 to 5300 at startup with bypassing the springs.
I am waiting for my FT03, but sadly its not shipped yet.

But thanks for this personal comparation.

Cloud
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Cloud wrote:
Comparison of ni40 with SBT90 gen 2 vs astrolux ft03 with hp50.2 4300 lumens

1. Size: NI40 head is smaller and it’s a bit shorter so 1 points in favor of Ni40
2. Weight :NI 40 is a bit lighter , about the same, or at least the weight is more concentrated in the hand, so 1 point for NI 40
3. FT03 has better UI, ramping , voltage meter, other functions so 1 point for FT03. Plus I don’t like tail bottoms but that’s petsonal. Anyway 1 point for astrolux
4. On turbo ( if you can switch to it) NI40 is slightly throwier than ft03 so 1 point. For NI40. The difference is not that obvious though , I believe the photos may have beeen a bit misleading
5. The faulty switch issue for NI 40to turn on turbo for a number of people is a big minus, so 1 in favor of FT03
6. Price of NI40 is about twice the price of ft03 so 1 point for ft03
7 lumen output about the same, but need to remeasure. I don’t think it reaches 5,000 lumens. It’s a tie for now. Both eat thru the battery pretty fast, output reduces when voltage drops and of course there is some battery sag on both.
8 slightly bigger hot spot for NI but bigger corona for ft03. Corona colors a bit yellowish for ft03 so.lets say it’s a tie
Stilll need to get power consumption.
9. In general brighter spill for ft03 , useful when riding or in general, making this a great combination light with a more balanced ratio between spill and flood- a p0int for ft03
10 on turbo at least NI heats up faster so a point for astrolux

So far:

5 points for FT03
3 points for Ni40

FT03 can reach 5300 Lumens or more. I have a Astrolux EC01 with 3V XHP50.2. And the Lumen rised from 4300 to 5300 at startup with bypassing the springs.
I am waiting for my FT03, but sadly its not shipped yet.

But thanks for this personal comparation.

You got 5300 lumens at start uponEc01after shunting the springs? Which battery did you use? Howw fast was the battery sag? How long was It in turbo before it crashed to the sustainable level and what was that level, if you don’t my my asking so many questions? Thanks

Wieselflinkpro
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Cloud wrote:
Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Cloud wrote:
Comparison of ni40 with SBT90 gen 2 vs astrolux ft03 with hp50.2 4300 lumens

1. Size: NI40 head is smaller and it’s a bit shorter so 1 points in favor of Ni40
2. Weight :NI 40 is a bit lighter , about the same, or at least the weight is more concentrated in the hand, so 1 point for NI 40
3. FT03 has better UI, ramping , voltage meter, other functions so 1 point for FT03. Plus I don’t like tail bottoms but that’s petsonal. Anyway 1 point for astrolux
4. On turbo ( if you can switch to it) NI40 is slightly throwier than ft03 so 1 point. For NI40. The difference is not that obvious though , I believe the photos may have beeen a bit misleading
5. The faulty switch issue for NI 40to turn on turbo for a number of people is a big minus, so 1 in favor of FT03
6. Price of NI40 is about twice the price of ft03 so 1 point for ft03
7 lumen output about the same, but need to remeasure. I don’t think it reaches 5,000 lumens. It’s a tie for now. Both eat thru the battery pretty fast, output reduces when voltage drops and of course there is some battery sag on both.
8 slightly bigger hot spot for NI but bigger corona for ft03. Corona colors a bit yellowish for ft03 so.lets say it’s a tie
Stilll need to get power consumption.
9. In general brighter spill for ft03 , useful when riding or in general, making this a great combination light with a more balanced ratio between spill and flood- a p0int for ft03
10 on turbo at least NI heats up faster so a point for astrolux

So far:

5 points for FT03
3 points for Ni40

FT03 can reach 5300 Lumens or more. I have a Astrolux EC01 with 3V XHP50.2. And the Lumen rised from 4300 to 5300 at startup with bypassing the springs.
I am waiting for my FT03, but sadly its not shipped yet.

But thanks for this personal comparation.

You got 5300 lumens at start uponEc01after shunting the springs? Which battery did you use? Howw fast was the battery sag? How long was It in turbo before it crashed to the sustainable level and what was that level, if you don’t my my asking so many questions? Thanks

After Dedoming I only got 4900 Lumen.
I use Liitokala Lii40.
After one minute I have around 3000 Lumen.
Stepdown configurated at around 65°C
After Minutes it stays at 500 Lumen.

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Cloud wrote:
Same results here . It doesn’t matter whether the nippple was there ( h dimension) or not. It’s about how the actual switch work ( or doesn’t work) The intended purpose of cutting it down was not to push in the button as deep so it doesn’t make the full click maybe. I sometimes am able to get into turbo by pressing the rubber half way ( twice quickly) before it makes the click. Once I click( double click) I never get the turbo, but your hands have to be so fine tuned, it’s impossible to retain the same amount of force every time. The switch itself is faulty or the design of it is. And meals site always answered thru the chat while the lights were in transit but not any more, not responding to the chat in the last 12 hrs

That is a shame. It sounds like most of us can Expect this switch defect. Now they do not respond to chat.Not surprising considering I Never got a response.

I am not mechanically inclined like a lot of you. I can do simple repairs but can not mod the light, solder ect. Nor should I have to unless I want to. This defect is discouraging and Neal does not appear to have the decency to respond[ more than a month for me now] or resolve these issues.

If mine is defective like others, I believe we are stuck with it. He does not even respond, why would he pay for shipping back to China?!

I will wait before my final judgement, but I do not expect anything to change.

EDIT: This is M4D M4X group buy. Hopefully he takes some initiative to resolve these apparent and ongoing issues. Wink

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djozz wrote:
I’m glad that this problem occurred, or I would have to live my life without ever knowing this great word “nubsie”. Smile

Not me! You know how to repair and mod these lights. Smile

I do not and should not have to repair a defective light. In the States, it is no big deal because everyone I have dealt with has a good reputation and will fix or replace the light. Sorry to say when you deal with China, it is unlikely to be resolved at their expense.
Cloud
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In my opinion there is a defect in the switch design whether you trim the rubber or not. I pressed the switch button without the rubber and same affect. The switch needs to be replaced or maybe the driver.

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Cloud wrote:
In my opinion there is a defect in the switch design whether you trim the rubber or not. I pressed the switch button without the rubber and same affect. The switch needs to be replaced or maybe the driver.

That makes sense to me. Mine should be here in a week or two. Just shipped 3 days ago.I wish I ordered a week later I would have cancelled it!

I want to know if any of the people who have this light have a switch/light that works as it should. I have not heard of any reports that they do not have this problem. It appears, if indeed a defect, that all the lights will have this issue. I hope not, if that is the case it will be interesting to see how this is handled.

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do you have the problem only with the sbt90 or with the other versions too? 

 

Neal can be reached most time by Facebook 

 

 

already member of M4DM4X.com ?

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Just so I understand, this light has a clicky switch and not an e-switch, so am I correct in assuming that turbo should be a double half press and not a double press? Is that what everyone is doing and still getting inconsistent results?

djozz
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Anyone know what switch it is? If it is a common Omten 1288, the over 20 amps from the SBT90 may be a challenge for it. The bigger Omten or a Kan88 should handle it well.

Cloud
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Rayoui wrote:
Just so I understand, this light has a clicky switch and not an e-switch, so am I correct in assuming that turbo should be a double half press and not a double press? Is that what everyone is doing and still getting inconsistent results?
It does click if pressed all the way. But I get better results toggling between the levels as well as getting turbo by pressing sort of half way or 2/3rds of the way without the audible clicks and most times I done even get that turbo most of the time.
Also turbo never comes on from the off position. The only luck I get is when I turn it on first then do double half press without the actual clicks .
Annoying as hell

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