FW3A Turns On and Becomes Stuck When Tail and Head Tightened

55 posts / 0 new
Last post
KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 50 min 14 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 4177
Location: The Motor City

id30209 wrote:

Mine did as well…so i asked Victor Zhou on FB for help since he’s Lumintop sales menager (or similar) and i got 2 drivers for 10$, shipping included. 


Now my FW3C works again, as it should


How did you fit the new driver?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

id30209
id30209's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 16 sec ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 1119
Location: Croatia

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
How did you fit the new driver?

Desolder led wires, remove retaining ring, desolder wires from old driver and solder them to a new board. Everything else is reversible as removal. Straight forward i’d say.

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 50 min 14 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 4177
Location: The Motor City

id30209 wrote:

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
How did you fit the new driver?

Desolder led wires, remove retaining ring, desolder wires from old driver and solder them to a new board. Everything else is reversible as removal. Straight forward i’d say.


No the driver board itself, and it’s not straight forward. I have done several driver fixes/changes on the FW3A’s the new boards are over size, so the ones I have changed were do to improper fitting. One was so loose from the factory, when tightened down by the retainer, the signal ring was under the retainer ring? 2 from the factory were just thrown in and tightened down they were not properly fit/seated. Most of the material is taken off the key or the flat that locks the driver into the driver pocket, this keeps the signal ring on the driver centered, not removing material from around the main diameter of the driver.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

id30209
id30209's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 16 sec ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 1119
Location: Croatia

Ok, well i had to hold the driver spring centered while tightening the ring. But i asume everyone will do the same. If the driver is a bit larger than the seat pocket then some rework of the head can be done via elbow grease system

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 50 min 14 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 4177
Location: The Motor City

id30209 wrote:

Ok, well i had to hold the driver spring centered while tightening the ring. But i asume everyone will do the same. If the driver is a bit larger than the seat pocket then some rework of the head can be done via elbow grease system


Yeah right….. Facepalm

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

id30209
id30209's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 16 sec ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 1119
Location: Croatia

Also a note that new drivers don’t have a slot as old ones had.

Relax Kawi...these things are cheap so dramatizing won’t do you no good

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 50 min 14 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 4177
Location: The Motor City

id30209 wrote:

Also a note that new drivers don’t have a slot as old ones had.


Relax Kawi…these things are cheap so dramatizing won’t do you no good

Maybe the “NEW” lights don’t have the key flat in the heat sink but the new drivers do still have the flat. I have purchased many.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

id30209
id30209's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 16 sec ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 1119
Location: Croatia

Huh, need to check what i messed upsealed

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

korkfoto
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 4 hours ago
Joined: 11/28/2017 - 11:09
Posts: 256
Location: Romania

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
id30209 wrote:

Also a note that new drivers don’t have a slot as old ones had.


Relax Kawi…these things are cheap so dramatizing won’t do you no good


Maybe the “NEW” lights don’t have the key flat in the heat sink but the new drivers do still have the flat. I have purchased many. !{width:100%}https://i.postimg.cc/k44×4wcj/IMG-1267.jpg!

Where can I get the tail switch?

Thank you!

FIAT LUX!

WalkIntoTheLight
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 21 hours ago
Joined: 12/05/2015 - 10:26
Posts: 2155
Location: Canada

Well, mine is mainly a shelf queen, due to the fact the button way-too-easily activates when pocket carried. But, after reading this discussion, I’m going to make it a shelf queen-on-a-metal-lid. I suppose I could take the battery out, but I prefer to keep cells in all my lights or I’d never use them.

Henk4U2
Henk4U2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 35 min ago
Joined: 02/13/2014 - 17:52
Posts: 3492
Location: The heart of the Netherlands (GMT+1)

The FW3A has a hair-trigger switch. To avoid accidents you can:
a- Lock it out. Turning the head ¼ turn does not really mechanically lock it out since there a two parallel electrical circuits. To make that happen you have to unscrew the head so far it almost comes of.
b- Electronically lock it out. But you still can drain the light accidentally because in lockout the switch provides you with a momentary moon mode.
c- Do what I have done HERE. The light is “alive” but it will take a miracle before you accidentally can press the switch.

As for the rest of it: on receiving a new light I always take it apart as far as possible. Look for coarse threads, foreign particles and debris, and lube various threads and rings before I put in a battery. And please do remember, this light was designed to accommodate an UNprotected flat top battery. Like the 30Q.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 50 min 14 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 4177
Location: The Motor City

korkfoto wrote:

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
id30209 wrote:

Also a note that new drivers don’t have a slot as old ones had.


Relax Kawi…these things are cheap so dramatizing won’t do you no good


Maybe the “NEW” lights don’t have the key flat in the heat sink but the new drivers do still have the flat. I have purchased many. !{width:100%}https://i.postimg.cc/k44×4wcj/IMG-1267.jpg!

Where can I get the tail switch?

Thank you!


Lumintop Victor Zou

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

korkfoto
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 4 hours ago
Joined: 11/28/2017 - 11:09
Posts: 256
Location: Romania

Thank you!

FIAT LUX!

brightish
Offline
Last seen: 8 months 1 week ago
Joined: 12/02/2019 - 12:06
Posts: 10
RobertB wrote:
brightish wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
brightish wrote:
I did loosen the tailcap about a quarter turn today before inserting the battery, then tightened it down (which, coincidentally, is what the troubleshooting thread says to do). I’m guessing this has something to do with it.

Yup.

Remove the head. Then tighten the tailcap. Then insert a battery and tighten the head.

Yep, no dice. Issue still occurs.
The driver retaining ring is also tight.
Any other ideas?

I don’t know if the battery is the problem or not, but it looks like you have a fake Samsung 30Q in the video. 30Q’s have a 3 post positive end, looks like yours is 4 posts. Did you buy that battery from an Aliexpress store? If so, almost all of them are selling fake 30Q’s.

This is an authentic 30Q. Notice the 3 prong positive cap

And yours looks like 4 prong, thus a fake 30Q

!{width:50%}https://i.imgur.com/hMA83Fl.jpg!

Hey there, thanks for the info. Mine are 3 prongs. That angle just makes it look like a 4 prong. Watch from this point: https://youtu.be/EncF1elFhyk?t=53

hank
hank's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 1 min ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:52
Posts: 9203
Location: Berkeley, California
Quote:
take it apart as far as possible. Look for coarse threads, foreign particles and debris, and lube various threads and rings before I put in a battery.

Yep.

RobertB
RobertB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 12/18/2015 - 17:49
Posts: 3481
Location: USA, Michigan
brightish wrote:
RobertB wrote:
brightish wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
brightish wrote:
I did loosen the tailcap about a quarter turn today before inserting the battery, then tightened it down (which, coincidentally, is what the troubleshooting thread says to do). I’m guessing this has something to do with it.

Yup.

Remove the head. Then tighten the tailcap. Then insert a battery and tighten the head.

Yep, no dice. Issue still occurs.
The driver retaining ring is also tight.
Any other ideas?

I don’t know if the battery is the problem or not, but it looks like you have a fake Samsung 30Q in the video. 30Q’s have a 3 post positive end, looks like yours is 4 posts. Did you buy that battery from an Aliexpress store? If so, almost all of them are selling fake 30Q’s.

This is an authentic 30Q. Notice the 3 prong positive cap

And yours looks like 4 prong, thus a fake 30Q

!{width:50%}https://i.imgur.com/hMA83Fl.jpg!

Hey there, thanks for the info. Mine are 3 prongs. That angle just makes it look like a 4 prong. Watch from this point: https://youtu.be/EncF1elFhyk?t=53

Those still don’t look correct. The prongs are way too big. Look at my picture and the spacing between the prongs, then look at yours. Or post an up close still picture

edit… looks you have a button top cell there. These FW3A’s require flat tops for spacing purposes. Button tops will add a few extra mm to the length of the cell. I’d bet that light will work just fine with a flat top 30Q

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4074
Location: California

RobertB wrote:
Those still don’t look correct. The prongs are way too big. Look at my picture and the spacing between the prongs, then look at yours. Or post an up close still picture

edit… looks you have a button top cell there. These FW3A’s require flat tops for spacing purposes. Button tops will add a few extra mm to the length of the cell. I’d bet that light will work just fine with a flat top 30Q


That looks a standard flat top 30Q to me. You can tell because the button does not rise above the level of the wrapper.
mattlward
mattlward's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 1 week ago
Joined: 06/19/2015 - 09:20
Posts: 2828
Location: Illinois, USA

I cannot tell from the video clip, if that is a button top… you will likely have to stretch the springs to get it working with a true flattop. Don’t ask me how I know… Smile

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

brightish
Offline
Last seen: 8 months 1 week ago
Joined: 12/02/2019 - 12:06
Posts: 10

Hmmmm, very interesting. My batteries are flat tops with 3 prongs. However, I do see your point about the prong width. Mine are significantly wider. I’ll start another thread in the battery forum. Thanks for the heads up.

Link to new post and photos: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/70414

Mike89
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 week ago
Joined: 02/08/2012 - 02:02
Posts: 57
Location: USA

After reading this thread, it makes me nervous as hell now about this light. I’ve had a couple instances myself of this light not turning off right away. Sometimes when double clicking to turn on turbo, the light won’t shut off after clicking multiple tries. After fiddling with the switch some more it will finally shut off. This is not a good thing. If a light can’t be trusted, what good is it?

hank
hank's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 1 min ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:52
Posts: 9203
Location: Berkeley, California

I had another hot pocket with mine yesterday.
Kind of awkward when somebody at the dog park says “your pants are glowing ….”?

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 35 min ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 1232
Location: Ohio, United States

Was I just extremely lucky with the two examples I had in-hand? Both were slightly flaky upon re-assembly, but following the troubleshooting steps made them super reliable. I haven’t had a single problem since the switch O-ring mod, and the only problems before that were accidental button presses.

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

ValuseekeR
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 1 day ago
Joined: 12/01/2012 - 13:18
Posts: 368
Location: USA
Scallywag wrote:
Was I just extremely lucky with the two examples I had in-hand? Both were slightly flaky upon re-assembly, but following the troubleshooting steps made them super reliable. I haven’t had a single problem since the switch O-ring mod, and the only problems before that were accidental button presses.

Beem wondering the same. Other than a couple accidental presses, haven’t had any issues at all with my two.

Casemods
Casemods's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 19 hours ago
Joined: 07/25/2020 - 13:40
Posts: 6
Location: East bAy

Always had issues with the light going into stepped ramping (I hate it)

Finally looked it up. Simple 3 button press.

The guide said

“reasons to take off tail cap:

Don’t
To change the clip
Because you just want to ;)”

Well…now I wanted to.

First thing I noticed was the button wasn’t as smooth or easy to press.

Second was it starts turning on by itself.

Oops

Fw3a, d4v2, k1, e01, s2r cu, s2+ cu sr, s2+ sand sr, c8.

East bAy area, California

Pages