FW3A Turns On and Becomes Stuck When Tail and Head Tightened

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KawiBoy1428
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id30209 wrote:

Mine did as well…so i asked Victor Zhou on FB for help since he’s Lumintop sales menager (or similar) and i got 2 drivers for 10$, shipping included. 


Now my FW3C works again, as it should


How did you fit the new driver?

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id30209
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
How did you fit the new driver?

Desolder led wires, remove retaining ring, desolder wires from old driver and solder them to a new board. Everything else is reversible as removal. Straight forward i’d say.

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id30209 wrote:

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
How did you fit the new driver?

Desolder led wires, remove retaining ring, desolder wires from old driver and solder them to a new board. Everything else is reversible as removal. Straight forward i’d say.


No the driver board itself, and it’s not straight forward. I have done several driver fixes/changes on the FW3A’s the new boards are over size, so the ones I have changed were do to improper fitting. One was so loose from the factory, when tightened down by the retainer, the signal ring was under the retainer ring? 2 from the factory were just thrown in and tightened down they were not properly fit/seated. Most of the material is taken off the key or the flat that locks the driver into the driver pocket, this keeps the signal ring on the driver centered, not removing material from around the main diameter of the driver.

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id30209
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Ok, well i had to hold the driver spring centered while tightening the ring. But i asume everyone will do the same. If the driver is a bit larger than the seat pocket then some rework of the head can be done via elbow grease system

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KawiBoy1428
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id30209 wrote:

Ok, well i had to hold the driver spring centered while tightening the ring. But i asume everyone will do the same. If the driver is a bit larger than the seat pocket then some rework of the head can be done via elbow grease system


Yeah right….. Facepalm

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id30209
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Also a note that new drivers don’t have a slot as old ones had.

Relax Kawi...these things are cheap so dramatizing won’t do you no good

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KawiBoy1428
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id30209 wrote:

Also a note that new drivers don’t have a slot as old ones had.


Relax Kawi…these things are cheap so dramatizing won’t do you no good

Maybe the “NEW” lights don’t have the key flat in the heat sink but the new drivers do still have the flat. I have purchased many.

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id30209
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Huh, need to check what i messed upsealed

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
id30209 wrote:

Also a note that new drivers don’t have a slot as old ones had.


Relax Kawi…these things are cheap so dramatizing won’t do you no good


Maybe the “NEW” lights don’t have the key flat in the heat sink but the new drivers do still have the flat. I have purchased many. !{width:100%}https://i.postimg.cc/k44×4wcj/IMG-1267.jpg!

Where can I get the tail switch?

Thank you!

FIAT LUX!

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Well, mine is mainly a shelf queen, due to the fact the button way-too-easily activates when pocket carried. But, after reading this discussion, I’m going to make it a shelf queen-on-a-metal-lid. I suppose I could take the battery out, but I prefer to keep cells in all my lights or I’d never use them.

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The FW3A has a hair-trigger switch. To avoid accidents you can:
a- Lock it out. Turning the head ¼ turn does not really mechanically lock it out since there a two parallel electrical circuits. To make that happen you have to unscrew the head so far it almost comes of.
b- Electronically lock it out. But you still can drain the light accidentally because in lockout the switch provides you with a momentary moon mode.
c- Do what I have done HERE. The light is “alive” but it will take a miracle before you accidentally can press the switch.

As for the rest of it: on receiving a new light I always take it apart as far as possible. Look for coarse threads, foreign particles and debris, and lube various threads and rings before I put in a battery. And please do remember, this light was designed to accommodate an UNprotected flat top battery. Like the 30Q.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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korkfoto wrote:

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
id30209 wrote:

Also a note that new drivers don’t have a slot as old ones had.


Relax Kawi…these things are cheap so dramatizing won’t do you no good


Maybe the “NEW” lights don’t have the key flat in the heat sink but the new drivers do still have the flat. I have purchased many. !{width:100%}https://i.postimg.cc/k44×4wcj/IMG-1267.jpg!

Where can I get the tail switch?

Thank you!


Lumintop Victor Zou

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Thank you!

FIAT LUX!

brightish
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RobertB wrote:
brightish wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
brightish wrote:
I did loosen the tailcap about a quarter turn today before inserting the battery, then tightened it down (which, coincidentally, is what the troubleshooting thread says to do). I’m guessing this has something to do with it.

Yup.

Remove the head. Then tighten the tailcap. Then insert a battery and tighten the head.

Yep, no dice. Issue still occurs.
The driver retaining ring is also tight.
Any other ideas?

I don’t know if the battery is the problem or not, but it looks like you have a fake Samsung 30Q in the video. 30Q’s have a 3 post positive end, looks like yours is 4 posts. Did you buy that battery from an Aliexpress store? If so, almost all of them are selling fake 30Q’s.

This is an authentic 30Q. Notice the 3 prong positive cap

And yours looks like 4 prong, thus a fake 30Q

!{width:50%}https://i.imgur.com/hMA83Fl.jpg!

Hey there, thanks for the info. Mine are 3 prongs. That angle just makes it look like a 4 prong. Watch from this point: https://youtu.be/EncF1elFhyk?t=53

hank
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Quote:
take it apart as far as possible. Look for coarse threads, foreign particles and debris, and lube various threads and rings before I put in a battery.

Yep.

RobertB
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brightish wrote:
RobertB wrote:
brightish wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
brightish wrote:
I did loosen the tailcap about a quarter turn today before inserting the battery, then tightened it down (which, coincidentally, is what the troubleshooting thread says to do). I’m guessing this has something to do with it.

Yup.

Remove the head. Then tighten the tailcap. Then insert a battery and tighten the head.

Yep, no dice. Issue still occurs.
The driver retaining ring is also tight.
Any other ideas?

I don’t know if the battery is the problem or not, but it looks like you have a fake Samsung 30Q in the video. 30Q’s have a 3 post positive end, looks like yours is 4 posts. Did you buy that battery from an Aliexpress store? If so, almost all of them are selling fake 30Q’s.

This is an authentic 30Q. Notice the 3 prong positive cap

And yours looks like 4 prong, thus a fake 30Q

!{width:50%}https://i.imgur.com/hMA83Fl.jpg!

Hey there, thanks for the info. Mine are 3 prongs. That angle just makes it look like a 4 prong. Watch from this point: https://youtu.be/EncF1elFhyk?t=53

Those still don’t look correct. The prongs are way too big. Look at my picture and the spacing between the prongs, then look at yours. Or post an up close still picture

edit… looks you have a button top cell there. These FW3A’s require flat tops for spacing purposes. Button tops will add a few extra mm to the length of the cell. I’d bet that light will work just fine with a flat top 30Q

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RobertB wrote:
Those still don’t look correct. The prongs are way too big. Look at my picture and the spacing between the prongs, then look at yours. Or post an up close still picture

edit… looks you have a button top cell there. These FW3A’s require flat tops for spacing purposes. Button tops will add a few extra mm to the length of the cell. I’d bet that light will work just fine with a flat top 30Q


That looks a standard flat top 30Q to me. You can tell because the button does not rise above the level of the wrapper.
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I cannot tell from the video clip, if that is a button top… you will likely have to stretch the springs to get it working with a true flattop. Don’t ask me how I know… Smile

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

brightish
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Hmmmm, very interesting. My batteries are flat tops with 3 prongs. However, I do see your point about the prong width. Mine are significantly wider. I’ll start another thread in the battery forum. Thanks for the heads up.

Link to new post and photos: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/70414

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