Driverless lm301b board

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32996402921.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.3a363c00QbmmxD&mp=1

I bet this would offer 13,000 lumens if cooled, and no driver needed. $33. Unfortunately , 220 V.

Is there no easy way to get this board to run on 110-120V?

……….230 Lumen per watt Samsung 301b. But 30 percent loss due to on pcb driver, the money savings, so not the usual 19,000 lumens. Unfortunately, a driver, fan, heat sink costs too much, when you compare to $10 USD buying 10,000 lumens of halogen light, and Metal halide, not too far behind……… Solution, epoxy mount two on a metal can, cut steel off and mount your heat sink in the distilled water (15% antifreeze , 1% redline water wetter for corrosion resistance.). You would get 1.5 hours at 200 watts using a gallon can. This could be extended with a pir and dimmer. You would have a $80-$90 26,000 lumen light in a compact form factor that wouldn’t take up too much space on a truck. Not enough with which to really paint a wall with 100% confidence, as 80,000 is really the bare minimum. But with two, you could paint half a wall, or a bathroom. And have a respectable light. Once price drops, I would make four using 8 of these boards. Not because I need to, but because I can (in future).

2

You could probably get it to run on 110/220, but it would require modding the driver circuit and it would increase the current. You would be better off doing something like a Cree CXB3950. Runs on DC, does need a driver and heatsink but those are relatively cheap. At 135W top bins does around 14500k lm and you can get high cri versions too with less output. I’ve been eyeing one for a flashlight project since 2019…downside is that it’s more than $35 from China.

3

Unfortunately, only an cob led over 200lpw is a technology step forward. I am trying to rival $10 for 10,000 lumens halogen and $150 for 100k lumen metal Halide. If not in every situation, at least in some situations, applications.

Heat sinking is a huge problem that can only be overcome by bettering 200 lpw. Then, there is the problem of driver cost for 500 or 1500 watts of LEDs. Then, there is the form factor per kilo lumen. Then, there is fragility.

The on board driver solves the form factor problem, the fragility problem during transport, the cost problem. It introduces efficiency problems, which the lm301b has enough efficiency overhead to balance.

I probably won’t bother with this, Amazon.com
I’m not so sure there is not a solder bypass trick on the board that could not convert the 220v to 110v, since that would be the smart way to design the board. (Hint, big Clive on YouTube breakdowns of these chips. )

I will add that there is only a thin fiberglass insulation to isolate the chip electronics from the aluminum board, which can break down if they burn out. So, grounding is a must for any build with these. Though, a built in gfci is more practical…… So, now, add cost for a pir, gfci, and dimmer into the build…. (Heat sink and driver costs are the obscene costs in my book-even for typical tiny 100 w build.)

I have been saying for last few years, wake me when your 100w led arrays hit 200 lpw. Then, I can do something useful with the technology (at 1000 watts, give or take a few hundred) . The lm301b technology, found current grow lights almost have my attention. These 800w grow lights have cost overrun issues (mainly driver) . I don’t see street light implementation, outside of made to order in city wide wholesale.

Also, these boards seem more lumen dense that the off the shelf lm301b grow lights.