Thrunite T10T V2 with Neutral White XP-L

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jon_slider
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Thrunite T10T V2 with Neutral White XP-L

Thrunite T10T V2 with Neutral White XP-L
Cutlery Lover logo on bezel.

The light has a high polish, except the bezel is slightly less polished.

Output on my light meter, using AA Alkaline

0.4 Lumens
5 Lumens w pwm (visible when waving)
55 Lumens
140 Lumens

The weight with an AA, 68 grams, is almost identical to the weight of the V11r w 16340, 65 grams.

I was happily surprised how small the T10T is. I like that the flat spots around the switch prevent the light from rolling. The light feels good in hand, smooth, with no sharp spots, and the body texture gives excellent grip.

The UI is simple, with shortcut to moonlight, which I like.

The tint is greenish yellow in the hotspot, the spill is slightly purple. Shown next to Cu Tool w 219b 4500k 9080 (sw45k)

thinner than V11r, and just 3 grams heavier

pwm on low mode

Does anyone know of a driver w no PWM that fits?

Edited by: jon_slider on 03/30/2020 - 19:58
LumenMax
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That's odd. Mine doesn't exhibit the PWM issue on low and high. Just on medium. 

jon_slider
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LumenMax wrote:
…Mine doesn’t exhibit the PWM issue on low

I think I created confusion and we have our terminology wires crossed?
your medium might be what I called my Low

to be clear:

my names for the modes are
moon
low… this is the one with PWM
med
high

the level w PWM on my T10T, matches the one that zeroair reviewed, the factory spec 7 lumen mode has PWM (its the lower one of the two that can be memorized)

He also made an intriguing statement in that review:
The feel of this in hand is very much like a McGizmo Haiku.

so now Im wondering if someone can post a haiku and a T10T side by side.. are they the same proportions?

about switches:

I would much prefer a tailswitch
Im really not a sideswitch kind of guy, I hate not being able to find the button by feel

about drivers:

any thoughts on a driver that works with the sideswitch, without any mode having PWM..
and still be AA and 14500 compatible

or
any driver option with a rampling UI such as anduril that fits the 12mm diameter, even if the light then would only be LiIon, not AA compatible?

the new Synergy 2 AA has ramping (I dont know the source of the driver), but sadly the lowest mode is 5 lumens, I really like the 0.5 lumen mode of the T10T better…

no perfect light.. lol

How to Bypass Memory (aka Lumen Lottery):

Always press and hold from off

hold to turn on (gives 0.4 moon), hold to advance (gives what I call 5 lumen Low), hold to advance (gives 55 lumen medium)

jon_slider
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Modded to 219b 3000k

outputs on Alkaline
0.3
2.6 with PWM
35
70

It was very difficult to get the bezel off.

I finally succeeded after heating, freezing and re-heating the light.

the rest was straight forward:

ch1ir
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Does your ti make a humming noise on low?

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

Tumbleweed48
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That looks like red Loctite! Thrunite has no faith in us… Sad

jon_slider
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ch1ir wrote:
Does your ti make a humming noise on low?

no
does yours?
and by Low, do you mean the lower of the two modes that have memory, or the mode that is accessed by press and hold from off? (I checked all 4 modes, no hum on any mode)

.

Tumbleweed48 wrote:
red Loctite!
hardest light I have opened.
required a special consultation with my guru
he told me to heat freeze heat cycle
after that, Viola, Bobs your Uncle, and glee
ch1ir
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The lower of the two modes, thrunite is taking their time answering me back, I’m ok with the noise, just don’t want it to be dangerous

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

jon_slider
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ch1ir wrote:
The lower of the two modes, thrunite is taking their time answering me back, I’m ok with the noise, just don’t want it to be dangerous

inductor noise happens, even to some very expensive lights
it is not harmful

but I can live without it.. Smile

I hope you get a replacement that does not hum.. it is not “supposed to” hum.

.

the fastest way to get the correct email, is to begin the process of a Paypal dispute.

You do not have to file the dispute, just use the email contact that paypal shows when they suggest you contact the merchant first.

.

Be prepared to post a video on Youtube, even if the hum is not obvious that way, the paper pushers may require it as part of procedure to cover their a, before replacing your light.

.

hopefully Thrunite will just mail you a replacement (and let you keep the bad one)
or they might refund you, if you prefer, and let you keep the bad one.

their customer service script might require them to suggest you mail the bad one back, you should politely decline that expense, and offer them the opportunity to send you a prepaid label (they wont).

their scripted negotiation steps may also include lowballing you with a 25% credit, which after you decline, they raise to 50%.. decline again, they get to full refund or replace

hopefully you wont need to get the full monte, and you will end up with a nice quiet light, plus a backup that hums

moderator007
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Good Ole Red Loctite. Good stuff, if you never want to ever take it apart again. Silly
Makes your face turn red too, from straining your guts out trying to get it to break free.
Wonder if that’s why they made it red.
Good job on cracking and modding the light jon_slider. Thumbs Up

jon_slider
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Thank You Sir!

The High CRI LED mod, with nice orange incandescent tint for mellow evening light, made all the difference, for me.

Now the light makes me smile, and the Reds really Pop!

Great small lightweight AA.. I ordered some Eneloops for guilt free lumens..,

shirnask
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You are a terrible influence on my wallet

jon_slider
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shirnask wrote:
You are a terrible influence on my wallet

LOL

I have a couple of good friends like that… Smile

ch1ir
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jon_slider wrote:
ch1ir wrote:
The lower of the two modes, thrunite is taking their time answering me back, I’m ok with the noise, just don’t want it to be dangerous

inductor noise happens, even to some very expensive lights
it is not harmful

but I can live without it.. Smile

I hope you get a replacement that does not hum.. it is not “supposed to” hum.

.

the fastest way to get the correct email, is to begin the process of a Paypal dispute.

You do not have to file the dispute, just use the email contact that paypal shows when they suggest you contact the merchant first.

.

Be prepared to post a video on Youtube, even if the hum is not obvious that way, the paper pushers may require it as part of procedure to cover their a, before replacing your light.

.

hopefully Thrunite will just mail you a replacement (and let you keep the bad one)
or they might refund you, if you prefer, and let you keep the bad one.

their customer service script might require them to suggest you mail the bad one back, you should politely decline that expense, and offer them the opportunity to send you a prepaid label (they wont).

their scripted negotiation steps may also include lowballing you with a 25% credit, which after you decline, they raise to 50%.. decline again, they get to full refund or replace

hopefully you wont need to get the full monte, and you will end up with a nice quiet light, plus a backup that hums

Thrunite wants me to return it to Amazon and wait a month for a replacement, I told them I can’t do that because the state that I am in is in lockdown currently. We will go from there and see what they say, thanks for the advice

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

wolfstyle
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Nice mod. Did you reflow the LED on the stock mcpcb or find one that fits?

jon_slider
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@ ch1ir I only have AA batteries. I do not know if my light would hum with 14500. Which battery type are you getting Hum with?

output differences, pic is a link to an excellent review:

robo819 wrote:


ch1ir wrote:
Thrunite wants me to return it to Amazon and wait a month for a replacement, I told them I can’t do that…

So as not to be without a light during resolution process:
my strategy in response to that offer would be:

1. Buy another light as a separate transaction

2. Once I have a working light in hand, I would return the defective light for refund.

3. Or return both if both hum. I think the hum is unusual, and your next one should be fine. Im an optimist Smile

.

wolfstyle wrote:
Nice mod. Did you reflow the LED on the stock mcpcb or find one that fits?
I used the stock mcpcb

because the LED I installed and the one that comes stock, are both xp style LEDs

this allowed me to use the stock centering ring, which worked perfectly. Centering is perfect and the beam is really really clean in transition from hotspot to spill.

super happy with the quality of the beam using the stock mcpcb

josekym
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ch1ir wrote:
Does your ti make a humming noise on low?

Yes. I have several T10T v2 and all of them emit a high-pitched “hum” when on Low mode (not moonlight). Tested with 14500 and NiMH AA as well. Other modes (ML, M, H) on my units do not have the “hum”.

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Nice Thumbs Up

buck91
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Awesome feedback and thanks for the tips on the disassembly! Just purchased one but not expecting it until early May Sad Will be swapping to either a 218B/SST-20/LH351D depending on how I feel at the time. I’ll try the boiling water trick first, that has usually worked very well for me.

jon_slider
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I have discovered an unusual bug, I dont know how to solve it yet. But I know how to cause it.

It was seeming like every time I opened one of these lights, something would go wrong. I had one set aside for over a month beause I could not figure out why it stopped working. I bought another one cause I thought the first one had a dead driver. Now the New one acts just like the first one.

bottom line
These two lights only work properly if I do not overtighten the bezel. Unfortunately for my OCD, that means I cant line up the logo on the bezel, with the switch button, even though they came lined up originally.

(unless I can make peace with using loctite to hold the bezel in place after backing off the threads a turn, which will leave a “big” bezel gap… aaargh!)

in any case they are working properly atm, one is 3000k 219b, the other 660nm red. I run them on Eneloop only.

rant:
I dont really like sideswitch lights.. given my vision challenges, a tailswich is easier to find. There is a previous model of this light, with tailswitch and a screw on clip, that I prefer.. But I suspect it also has PWM on the low mode. This model has a tailmagnet, that I have not yet removed. I consider them a nuisance. I also have not added a battery sleeve yet, to stop it from rattling so easy.. oh and, one of them only works if I make sure to get the head a bit extra tight.. seems I screwed something up in there too… these guys are some of the worst to work on, of my limited experiece, and also one of the hardest to open, and the bezel has the scratches to prove it.. oh well.. still fun when they work. Smile

on AA Eneloop

T10T w 660nm red led
0.16, 1.3, 17, 73 lumens

T10T with sw30
0.23, 2.0, 30, 82 lumens

Kindle
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Quote:
I dont really like sideswitch lights.. given my vision challenges, a tailswich is easier to find. There is a previous model of this light, with tailswitch and a screw on clip, that I prefer.

I loved the old style T10. I don’t mind side switches but I definitely prefer tail clickies in lights below a certain size.

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jon_slider wrote:
I have discovered an unusual bug, I dont know how to solve it yet. But I know how to cause it.

It was seeming like every time I opened one of these lights, something would go wrong. I had one set aside for over a month beause I could not figure out why it stopped working. I bought another one cause I thought the first one had a dead driver. Now the New one acts just like the first one.

bottom line
These two lights only work properly if I do not overtighten the bezel. Unfortunately for my OCD, that means I cant line up the logo on the bezel, with the switch button, even though they came lined up originally.

(unless I can make peace with using loctite to hold the bezel in place after backing off the threads a turn, which will leave a “big” bezel gap… aaargh!)

in any case they are working properly atm, one is 3000k 219b, the other 660nm red. I run them on Eneloop only.

rant:
I dont really like sideswitch lights.. given my vision challenges, a tailswich is easier to find. There is a previous model of this light, with tailswitch and a screw on clip, that I prefer.. But I suspect it also has PWM on the low mode. This model has a tailmagnet, that I have not yet removed. I consider them a nuisance. I also have not added a battery sleeve yet, to stop it from rattling so easy.. oh and, one of them only works if I make sure to get the head a bit extra tight.. seems I screwed something up in there too… these guys are some of the worst to work on, of my limited experiece, and also one of the hardest to open, and the bezel has the scratches to prove it.. oh well.. still fun when they work. Smile

on AA Eneloop

T10T w 660nm red led
0.16, 1.3, 17, 73 lumens

T10T with sw30
0.23, 2.0, 30, 82 lumens

Very nice info. I bought a few and all of them have variation. I had one that didn’t want to turn on unless the mid section was screwed on super tight. Guess thrunite had a rough time working with Titanium. I believe someone emailed the owner and they said as soon as stock runs out, not going to make them anymore. One of the best deals for a titanium light. The next one up is double or tripple the price! A must have to add to the collection.

Don't keep blue bin emitters alive during the golden age of neutral white!

jon_slider
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Optiblue wrote:
I had one that didn’t want to turn on unless the mid section was screwed on super tight.

I have one that also only works if I make the head extra snug to the body.

I think the pill supporting the driver needs to be unscrewed a bit so the body tube makes contact more easily with the pill.

I agree they are good looking and bargain priced for a Titanium host

I like the hand feel, high gloss shine, and form factor, not too phat, and not too heavy..

Optiblue
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jon_slider wrote:
Optiblue wrote:
I had one that didn’t want to turn on unless the mid section was screwed on super tight.

I have one that also only works if I make the head extra snug to the body.

I think the pill supporting the driver needs to be unscrewed a bit so the body tube makes contact more easily with the pill.

I agree they are good looking and bargain priced for a Titanium host

I like the hand feel, high gloss shine, and form factor, not too phat, and not too heavy..

Yah, this there are quite a few issues, but for titanium at this price we all forgive xD. One of them I had to return as the button was super springy and didn’t feel tactile firm. It was a horrible feel and I hope as ours wear down it doesn’t feel like that down the road.

Don't keep blue bin emitters alive during the golden age of neutral white!

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Is it possible to remove the tail of the magnet?

jon_slider
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have not tried, but I think it is held by the spring, should be easy to remove if not glued.

however, removing the magnet will let the spring collapse since it is normally supported by the magnet, so if you dont want magnetism, maybe best to kill the magnet but not remove it.

I have not tried, but have heard that people kill magnets with a soldering iron. Be careful, neodymium is toxic and can catch fire., So dont break it into pieces and swallow any, and dont use a flame to heat it.

share what you learn

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Nice perseverance.

The glue on the bezel is really nasty stuff. Facepalm

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flightless22 wrote:
Nice perseverance.

The glue on the bezel is really nasty stuff. Facepalm


thanks, yes, I had a really hard time opening the T10T lights.

today I removed the 660nm and installed a 730nm.

I wanted to see what would happen to the modes…
here are the modes on my meter:

Thrunite T10T w XP-E2 730nm on AA Eneloop
0.04, 0.2, 1, 5 lumens

here is what my meter thinks is 5 lumens on Both 660nm and 730nm. My eyes and camera see the outputs differently than my meter does.

jon_slider
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Naito wrote:
Is it possible to remove the tail of the magnet?

yes

I let the magnet heat up on my hotplate until it reached 200C. I left it at 200C for about 10 minutes.

The magnet is now very very weak. Guessing it lost 95% of its power. The tail of the light will not pick up an AA battery any more, the magnet is now too weak for the weight.

I put the weak magnet back in the light, it is needed to support the spring.

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jon_slider wrote:
Naito wrote:
Is it possible to remove the tail of the magnet?

yes

I let the magnet heat up on my hotplate until it reached 200C. I left it at 200C for about 10 minutes.

The magnet is now very very weak. Guessing it lost 95% of its power. The tail of the light will not pick up an AA battery any more, the magnet is now too weak for the weight.

I put the weak magnet back in the light, it is needed to support the spring.

Very awesome, might need to do this to mine as well. Never use the magnetic function and I’m scared to put other electronics near it.

Don't keep blue bin emitters alive during the golden age of neutral white!

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Optiblue wrote:
I’m scared to put other electronics near it.

Like what kind of electronics? Do you have a pocket microcassette recorder or something?

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