Chine se flashlight help

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Blueyoung
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Chine se flashlight help

Hello, I just bought the lamp in the photo below. This lamp has three operating modes. Full, economical and strobe. I would like to remove the economic and strobe modes. So that the light always turns on full. I have no idea how to modify the circuit. If anyone could help me it would be really nice. sorry for my bad English. I hope you can understand me.

Blueyoung
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Blueyoung
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power911
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Hi you must be new.
There’s something called a resistor mod using pencil graphite to short the orange capacitor present inside.

Your image is tiny and I can’t see anything but I assume it’s the orange rectangle on the right of the driver board. Just use a 2B pencil and darken the top of the orange. Make sure you draw over the silver solder on both sides of the orange.

something like this video I found in youtube

“Have you forgotten about all those who called you a Bringer of Woe and hunted you like an animal?”
“Normal humans don’t go around killing people and burning towns!”
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“Humans m

Blueyoung
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Thank you very much for your answer. I tried the trick. It seems to work, but not every time. Maybe I could solder a copper wire on the capacitor for reliability the tip? Sorry more the photo. I will try to put it back.

Blueyoung
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patmurris
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Not sure the pencil trick will solve your problem… My understanding is it removes what we call Next Mode Memory (NMM) where some flashlights once turned off will turn on in the next mode rather then the last one.

I’m no expert regarding drivers but i don’t think you can remove the unwanted modes without reflashing the driver firmware – reprogramming the MCU, which is somewhat complicated and may not even be possible on this light.

Honestly the light you show in your second tiny picture looks like one of those rather cheap “Tactical Military Grade” zooming light we’ve seen advertised everywhere with exaggerated specs. They usually have fake Cree leds, very cold tint and much lower output then advertised. Rather then trying to mod it you should probably get yourself a Convoy S2 or C8 for instance, depending what you want (flood or throw)…

power911
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patmurris wrote:
Not sure the pencil trick will solve your problem… My understanding is it removes what we call Next Mode Memory (NMM) where some flashlights once turned off will turn on in the next mode rather then the last one.

I’m no expert regarding drivers but i don’t think you can remove the unwanted modes without reflashing the driver firmware – reprogramming the MCU, which is somewhat complicated and may not even be possible on this light.

Honestly the light you show in your second tiny picture looks like one of those rather cheap “Tactical Military Grade” zooming light we’ve seen advertised everywhere with exaggerated specs. They usually have fake Cree leds, very cold tint and much lower output then advertised. Rather then trying to mod it you should probably get yourself a Convoy S2 or C8 for instance, depending what you want (flood or throw)…

It’ll definitely work. Almost all my cheapo drivers with next mode memory stayed on first mode after shorting the cap with pencil lead. The pencil trick is to have controllable next mode.

But true, op will definitely benefit a well built convoy at least.

“Have you forgotten about all those who called you a Bringer of Woe and hunted you like an animal?”
“Normal humans don’t go around killing people and burning towns!”
“Don’t worry. I’ll go with you! So you just follow me and no arguing, okay?”
“Humans m

power911
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Blueyoung wrote:
Thank you very much for your answer. I tried the trick. It seems to work, but not every time. Maybe I could solder a copper wire on the capacitor for reliability the tip? Sorry more the photo. I will try to put it back.

Don’t need copper wire. Just bridge it with your solder if you have solder to work with it
sorry this was a dumb idea and not recommended

“Have you forgotten about all those who called you a Bringer of Woe and hunted you like an animal?”
“Normal humans don’t go around killing people and burning towns!”
“Don’t worry. I’ll go with you! So you just follow me and no arguing, okay?”
“Humans m

Blueyoung
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Thank you I will try with soldering.

snakebite
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dont bridge the cap!
that would create a short which may release smoke.
the pencil trick makes the cap leaky so its charge bleeds quickly and the micro looses its mode memory.
if its not leaky enough rub it with the pencil a bit more.

power911
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snakebite wrote:
dont bridge the cap! that would create a short which may release smoke. the pencil trick makes the cap leaky so its charge bleeds quickly and the micro looses its mode memory. if its not leaky enough rub it with the pencil a bit more.

wait really? I never had that issue in mine though

“Have you forgotten about all those who called you a Bringer of Woe and hunted you like an animal?”
“Normal humans don’t go around killing people and burning towns!”
“Don’t worry. I’ll go with you! So you just follow me and no arguing, okay?”
“Humans m

snakebite
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you could bridge the mosfet.
upper right 7x .
as you look at it its left pin and center.
this keeps the current limiting resistors to the left in circuit.
dont dd this as cheap star and hollow pill means it will instantly go blue from overheating.

Lightbringer
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I did a mod to a pair of crappy AT01s, keeping the ballast resistors (the 4 thingies in a row), and “bypassing” the controller/FET thingy so that it wasn’t PWMing anything, just always-on (but still through the ballast resistors).

You really gotta grok the board and how it’s hooked up to do it right. It’s as simple as desoldering a wire from pad X and resoldering it to pad Y, but you gotta know what’re X and Y.

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