I’ve already annoyed you with my many praises for the Olight i3E, and now I’d like to replace the LED. I’d take anything from around 3500K to 5500K, CRI as high as possible. But WTB to get a good quote on postage in Europe? It is seemingly a Luxeon TX.
Second, there’s just one PCB with the driver on one side and the LED on the other. I have a pan of course, and an ordinary soldering iron. Any chance to do such an emitter swap with this basic equipment?
Thanks, Quadrupel, but I’m looking for the LED only. Not sure what color temperature the black i3E has now, but mine had around 6000K with blue tint . My DT i3E is ok, otoh. But that’s just the desert tan model, isn’t it?
You could do it in a pan, preferably an aluminum pan.
Desolder the old LED off the MCPCB, clean the entire old solder, add new tiny bit of clean solder to the pads, a tiny amount, put the LED on top and then put in the pan. Have something that you nudge the LED in place if case it move around.
Once you see the LED alighting itself naturally to the pads due to the heat you know it is done right then, you take the pan off the heat source and make sure you don’t react to hectic as while the solder is hot the LED might just get skewed or fall of the MCPCB.
Thanks to you, too. It’s not an MCPCB, but a double layer PCB if I’m not mistaken. So, I lay the PCB onto the driver components? Will they survive about 230 °C?
I’ve got the same issue but mine is more “the emitter tore in two” while removing the centring ring. They’re not easy to find, especially in higher CRI.
Then it’s different, I am not familiar how the I3 is inside, it also has components on the PCB maybe, or they just use a dual layer PCB for the LED only?
I am not sure what were you saying by pan, I just imagined uncontrolled heat source really (stove, electric or gas) by saying 230 °C sounds you want to control lead-free solder?
Theoretically too much heat or too long could delaminate the PCB, too little temperature might not create a good solder joint.
I see the image now, but that LED does not look like a Luxeon TX which has a square footprint, in the picture looks like a rectangular footprint that is not square.
I can easily control temperature within 10K by switching the oven up and down and I assume Olight uses lead-free solder. I use an IR meter to measure temperature.
Problem is mainly that heat has to reach the LED socket through the components. I don’t think it’s wise to do this.
Sorry, I did not realize what is going on there, the LED broken like that, I thought that is the entire package what is on the PCB. The package is square, now that I see oweban’s photo.
Ordered two LEDs and intend to preheat the PCB to 100 deg C, melt the solder with the iron an place the LED. Meanwhile I have cleaned the pads and applied leaded solder.
. My DT i3E is ok, otoh. But that’s just the desert tan model, isn’t it?
. That’s 15 EUR minimum order plus 5,70 EUR shipping 
