I want to see if I could buy just the driver for the fw21 pro? I got the pro a few weeks ago and about a week after use I went to remove the head and I removed the lense cap instead. When I went to screw it all back together the optic spun and destroyed the leds. I didnt have any idea how to repair but I decided to take a crack at it. I replace all 3 leds just incase. I also dedomed the leds and had to replace the wires on the driver because of the poor job I did desoldering them. Looks like when I went to remove the wires I touched a small smd components and I got it back on but I think it’s FUBAR. No matter what I try I can’t get it to work. It’s in a spot called d1 and I mean it’s tiny.
I would email service@lumintop.com, they’ve offered to sell me an FW3A switch before. Unfortunately the shipping from China made it impractical—but a driver is probably one of the more expensive parts of the FW21 Pro so it might still be worth it.
I just won a FW21 Pro in the GAW. When it comes I can try to see what the diode is on there, but that will be many weeks from now. Lumintop support is probably a better bet!
I mean same SMD package size. This diode is for reverse battery protection. If you can read electronic circuit look here Texas Avenger "TA" Driver series - Triple channel + Bistro or Narsil + Clicky or E-switch - The Ultimate open source driver!
The FW21Pro must use similar design I see from your picture. In multimeter diode test RED (positive) probe must be connected to diode Anode and negative (Black) probe to Cathode. Multimeter in that connection must measure actual voltage drop across diode, which for schottky diode is about 0,3-0,4V. When you replace probes directions i.e. RED to Cathode and Black to Anode diode must not conduct. Schottky diode compared to regular diode have lower forward voltage drop.
If you don’t know how diode work see that good video What Is a Diode? - YouTube
Thanks for the video…. bring back memories. I know just barely a little, but more that some about basic electronics. Other than how stuff works, I’m lost.
I went on mouser….with all the options seems impossible to figure out what i need.
question?
If I just remove the diode and bridge the gap, would/should that work? I know I would lose the protection, but at least then i can see if that’s the only thing I messed up.
Yes it must work, but you will lose accuracy of battery voltage reading from MCU. In Anduril firmware there is parameter which compensate voltage drop over diode.