I have a gift card burning a hole in my digital wallet and plan to get my first rotary flashlight. I like the aesthetics of the SWM V11R, but as it’s a bit dated, is it still worth buying? Or should I go for the Jetbeam RRT01? I like the idea of a single rotary control on the 2019, but the 2020 offering of a Nichia also seems nice (despite the extra clicky tail switch). What do BLF members think?
I would choose the 2019 RRT-01, if you can still find one, because I prefer no tailswitch
do you have a source for V11r? (I do not)
the RRT-01 has a lower low and higher high than the V11r
do not be misled by the Nichia reference in the 2020 RRT-01, unfortunately it is NOT a High CRI Nichia…
I prefer the 2019 RRT-01 over the 2020 w tailswitch
the LEDs can be changed…
the V11r is less heavy and less phat… otoh, the pocket clip is not to my liking, it is a press fit clip, I prefer the screw on clip of the RRT-01
more details
V11r has an AA adapter option
2020 RRT-01 has adapter options that allow both AA and 18650… (the adapters fit the 2019 model also)
all models of RRT-01 can use either 16340 or 18350, without any adapter.
V11r does not fit 18350
Thanks Jon! I took your advice and went with the 2019 RRT01. Apparently there’s a seller (Aimkon Outdoors) on Amazon who has new old stock. They even recently answered a question on the listing for the 2012 version stating they do have that one as well. I’ll see if I actually get the pictured 2019 model tomorrow. There’s also a listing for the Sunwayman V11R on Amazon, complete with conversion tubes (AP05 kit), but having a lower low and higher high in the RRT01 will be more useful.
Congrats on your 2019 RRT-01
they are nice, and not difficult to swap the LED to Nichia
They also benefit from a thicker control ring lubricant, I like Nyogel 767a
thanks for sharing info on lights available at amazon
be aware that Aimkon does NOT actually have the 2012 model they are showing in their listing. A friend bought one, ignoring my warning. They received a 2020 model and returned it.
This is the BOGUS Aimkon listing
do NOT buy. they are using an old listing, to sell new models.
It is correct that there were some V11r on Amazon recently. They are now gone.
the latest V11r ad says they will receive more on Nov 8 . I hope it is true
Amazon, like ebay, has a problem with sellers reusing old ads that are not present models, and in some cases they are not even actually selling flashlights. One Amazon seller used a Novatac ad to sell Porn Videos. I wont bother giving you that link.
Yeah I figured finding a new 2012 model was too good to be true. There’s still a good chance they will send me a 2020 model, despite the 2019 photos. But with free Prime returns, the risk is low. At the time of creating this thread, there was one V11R in stock.
thanks for sharing info
please confirm if you receive a 2019 model, as you ordered.
atm on Amazon there is a 2019 model listed by Battery Junction, but on their own website, the item is sold out. So I dont know what to believe.
Your actual experience is the best source of info we have 
Please let me know if the light you receive is indeed a 2019 model. If it isn’t, shoot me a PM.
Update: Amazon sent me a 2020 version. It might be my fault as I didn’t know extenders are packaged with the light for 2020. Or are they even sold on their own? Either way, I promptly returned it because I’ve already bought a 2019 one modded by Vinh off of CPF. It has great tint with the SST20 3000K, just the beam profile is less than even. I might drop in a TIR as jon_slider showed me to even it out and not mess with Vinh’s emitter swap.
Thank you toddcshoe for offering your help.
Question: The grey ring seems to have a bit of slop as it doesn’t sit snug against in the space between the tube and head. The detents are pretty good as well as the rotational resistance. Just that slight slop seems to be bugging me. Is this normal or is there a tweak to fix it?
Pulling down on the ring:
Pushing up on the ring:
do you mean Aimkon sent you a 2020 when you ordered from this ad showing a 2012 model?
the gap you see above the ring could be reduced by tightening the head
from factory the 2019 RRT-01 has blue loctite, so you may have to disassemble, clean, and reassemble with fresh loctite…
to give you some idea of the disassembly, here is a V11r. it has the same design
btw, it is NOT necessary to remove the bezel, nor the reflector, nor do you need to remove the centering ring, nor unsolder the mcpcb, nor do you need to remove the driver, before unscrewing the control ring assembly, on a 2019 RRT-01. All of that IS required for the 2012 model.
this next pic shows the bottom half of the 2019 RRT-01 control ring assembly… you can see the LED is still installed, and the control ring is lifted off
that ball bearing belongs on top of the spring you see on the control ring
I ordered from the Aimkon listing showing the 2019 version, but also had a few 2020 photos mixed in. I ordered the version with extenders and got a 2020.
This is the listing.
Not sure if the option without extenders (“Standard”) would be a 2019. I ended up using the refund to get the V11R.
Just to be clear on disassembly of the head, I should use a padded vise grip or strap wrench on these two sections?
Borrowed your pic jon_slider. 
You can sand or file the tube just above the control ring. Its best to measure the gap the control ring has now and then measure the total length of the piece the control ring rides around. That way you can file or sand and check agaisnt your original measurement of the piece the control ring rides around. If the gap is .030” and you want .015”, sand or file until it measures .015” less of the original measurement.
.
CAUTION: If you get the gap too small the control ring tries to bind or becomes harse to turn.
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My advice is to not try and eliminate all the slop, just remove some and call it good. Maybe file or sand a little at a time and then assemble to check fitment.
I think is what happens if the gap is too small is the spring is pushing on the ball bearing and creates pressure only on one side of the control ring, plus the spring is under more pressure now. So the ring rides around tilted slightly. If theres not enough gap it binds.
If you do happen to get the gap to small, you can add a few drops of loctite to the threads and screw the two head pieces together loosely. Let the loctite set and it should give you some of the gap back. It will be a pain to get back apart, so only do this if your not going to mod it any further.
> I should use a padded vise grip or strap wrench on these two sections?
correct
I’m happy to report I’ve successfully taken the head apart. It was a struggle because it appears Vinh had used red Loctite. After successfully breaking it free, I ended up taking the bezel and reflector out to really clean the red residue off the threads. Then I sanded down the brass lip according to moderator007’s instructions. I came so close it actually started to bind while dry fitted. But after applying lubricant, it still has great action and with almost no slop. I made sure to use blue Loctite this time and “tuned” the gap to be perfect for a rock solid feel.
The only casualty was the smaller internal O-ring that I suspect was already cracked. Thankfully I’m deep enough in this hobby where I have plenty of spares sitting around.
Thank everyone for all your help! Now on to the V11R if/when it arrives!
> I’m happy to report I’ve successfully taken the head apart.
congrats 