Further to my "Switch Issues" thread, DD finally finally approved my RMA on the first two items below - had to send them 2 different videos on several occasions before it got approved - kind of a hassle considering my total original order was over $200.
UltraFire™ WF-500 9V Xenon - this one the switch doesn't work at all. However, if I unscrew the tail and then screw it back in, it will illuminate but if I then switch it off it will not switch back on. UPDATED to say that if I delicately push in the on/off switch the bulb will glow for a fraction of a second but very faintly /weakly. Here's the link: http://www.dinodirect.com/UltraFire-Flashlight-9V-Xenon-Battery-Charger-WF-500.html
Why add new emitters? It sounds like (if I’m reading correctly) the emitters are OK.
You just need either new switches or to cleaning/tightening the connections/contact points.
With all of your lights if you take the tail cap off and touch a piece of metal (knife/screwdriver) to the negative terminal of the battery and to the tube of the flashlight does the light come on?
Here's what I had in the oher thread whch leads me to believe it is an emitter issue on the first two and the switch on the third:
"Well I had a little time to monkey around with them this morning.
UltraFire™ WF-500 9V Xenon - I tried shorting this one out with the end cap removed - no change, used some different 18650's - nothing. I guessit's not the switch - actually the switch in this model looks quite substantial the contact is a solid rod not a spring. I therefore assume this is controller related.
UltraFire™ 504B CREE MC-E 5 - shorting this one out produced the exact same behaviour as the switch does - a split second flash. Each time I short it out it flashes once. I therefore assume this is controller related too.
KEYGOS KE-5 1300 Lumens CREE XML XM-L T6 - shorting this one out leads to normal behaviour each shrt will cycle it through it modes. There I belief this one is switch related.
Am I on the right track and is it feasible to replace the LED and controller units?"
Then I appears you have two good switches so maybe you can use one of those to repair the bad switch only light.
The others may be due to 1) bad LED 2) bad drive or 3)loose connections, bad solder joints, pill not screwed in all the way.
Look at the actual LED using another light and a magnifying glass if possible and see if the emitter surface is discolored on any of them.
First I would try to tighten all of the pills however.
All pills, lights, connections and solders have been checked, cleaned and tightened. I would prefer to spend up to the original value of the lights and just swap in new components since the exisiting ones have exhausted my ability to diagnose and repair.
I spent some more time researching as well as switching batteries, head units and switches among my inventory of other lights. I have confirmed that the head of the 504B is definatley the problem and the WF-500 as well. However as the poster above mentions on the 500 it could be a current overdraw situation (this seems to be a common complaint) that is triggering the protect circuit in the batteries. I have ordered some non-protected batteries and I will report back when they arrive.
Another curious workaround on the WF-500 (if it is the batteries) is to "warm -up" the bulb. Pressing the clicky gently does produce a very slight glow and apparently if you do it enough times it "fools" the protection circuit. I have not had success with this and frankly this is way too troublesome to be a valid option.
I went ahead and ordered a 5 led replacement head for the WF-500 and as wll as a 320 lumen head for the 504B.
I haven't had the time to work further with the Keygos.
So I will now sit back and wait for the postman....................