UF980L problem [FIXED]

I got my 980 today, but there is a problem. The tailcap switch is overly sensitive and if I bump it too hard it switches modes. I think twice now it actually disconnected and failed entirely, I thought my batteries were old at first until I realized I could switch modes by bumping the light. Not sure how long this is going to last. Can I buy a replacement switch?

UPDATE - The problem was that one of the battery types I was using was just a bit too short. This light needs batteries that are atleast 68mm or so.

try tightening the retaining ring in the tailcap with a set of needle nose pliers..and manafont has a replacement clicky for the 980l if you can't get it fixed with the retaining ring..spend the extra 2$ to register the order though as manafont is losing orders of late..

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-replacemnet-tailcap-switch-component-5pcsset-p-7451

Do these switches determine how much current (besides battery) goes through an XML diode? If I bought a C8 and one of these switches would that effectively be a UF980L?

well a tailswitch will add resistance and there will be a loss in current from it at the led..but the driver has more to do with current to the led..a bad or good tailswitch will just add less/more resistance which will determine how much losses there are at the tailcap..and reflectors are different from the C8 to the 980l..

So I'm guessing the driver is the single piece that the LED is connected too? Is that called a pill?

yes the pill consists of the driver, led and a housing (brass, copper or aluminum)..the driver is the part that the battery + contact contacts with..sometimes has a spring, sometimes not (980l has no spring)

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yes the pill consists of the driver, led and a housing (brass, copper or aluminum)..the driver is the part that the battery + contact contacts with..sometimes has a spring, sometimes not (980l has no spring)

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Cool, I'm thinking about putting arctic silver on the pill threads to improve heat transfer. It's fun getting this thing apart.

Your advice for tightening the retaining ring seems to have helped a bit. I experimented with getting the ring screwed out as far as it would go yet would still allow the cap knurling to screw on all the way. I think I got it pretty well balanced.


I noticed this light doesn't have an IPX rating, anyone have any experience with the waterproofing capabilities of it?

yeah heat paste will help heat transfer, but the 980l really doesn't have an issue with heat transfer..foy got his so hot he couldn't touch it lol

waterproofing who knows..no one has tried it..put it in the sink without a battery for and see..keep checking it at longer intervals if it shows no signs of water..if it shows water inside then stop and dry it out thoroughly..

The switch is working fine now. This is a great light. Twilight just started and I can't wait to get a taste of the light this thing throws out.

so what fixed it?

Actually I originally thought tightening the inner cap ring is what fixed the bumping problem, but it was actually my battery. My NCR18650A batteries that came with my Xtar charger are too short. But my trustfire flames are long enough to maintain a connection. Kinda dissapointing.

I'm curious since your paying attention to this right now ill ask you. How the heck do I get a current draw reading? I have a battery meter but not even sure if it can test amperage.

glad it's fixed...

take your multi-meter and take off the tailcap..put the meter to 10a..take the leads and put one end to the battery - end and touch the other lead to the battery tube where it is bare aluminium..the light should light up and give you a reading on the meter..if your leads are small gauge like they all are then you won't get an accurate reading..

This is my multimeter.

http://support.radioshack.com/support_meters/doc62/62278.pdf


I don't think it can test amperage.

don't think so either..if it doesn't have a 10a setting then no dice..