Group Buy Proposal: We all need o-rings! (Warning: Long Post)

Group Buy Proposal: We all need o-rings! (Warning: Long Post)

I suggest we assemble a “kit” containing almost every commonly used o-ring and have a single supplier assemble it and provide it to us at a fair price.

By the way, "the other forum" did in fact do just that years ago but they were principally interested in SureFire at the time and their Group Buy had only SAE sizes - not the Metric that we need. They had planned to get around to putting a Metric kit together but, to the best of my knowledge, never got around to it.

If a few detail-oriented people (with calipers or a very keen eye and a good ruler) will help by measuring some of their o-rings, I volunteer to create a spreadsheet listing as many flashlight models as possible along with their o-ring requirements.

Then I will create a list that includes a few of each of the sizes as seems practical so that we can solicit pricing for it. Kreisler’s source in Germany seems to have every size imaginable – 1000’s I think!

The proposed spreadsheet will yield multiple benefits – even if an individual doesn’t participate in the Group Deal:

1) First of all, when they need an o-ring for a particular flashlight, he (or she) will probably be able to refer to the spreadsheet to find out exactly what size(s) to get – no guesswork, no measuring (and how do you measure a broken o-ring anyway?). The alternative would often be a visit to the hardware store for some trial and error – that is IF they even have something that would be suitable. Note that most of the o-rings available in the US are SAE (in inches), not in millimeters (which is what we need for almost all of the lights we have).

Another way to look at this is that it would obviate the need for each of us to buy micrometers and remove all of our o-rings to see what we're using.

2) We will be able to assemble a kit specifically designed for flashlight collectors and arrange for a supplier to provide it to our specifications.

Some of mine have broken; some have worn out due to lack of lubrication; some are obviously the wrong size for the purpose (due to Chinese supplier neglect of what should be an important “detail”).

I’ve spent hours researching o-rings.

At first I was under the misimpression that I would be able to buy an appropriate kit at a good price and all the sizes I needed would be included – no such luck! There are tons of kits available from lots of sources. E1320 is certainly right that Amazon has a huge number listed. The problem is that the kits are all wrong for flashlight use.

Then there are the Chinese suppliers. DX does have a few useful o-rings. So does FocalPrice – but no one seems to have anything near the complete mix that we would need.

About the cost:

I agree with Kreisler that at first glance the cost appears a little high (if we use his source) – but after considering all of the useless kits – even the cheaper ones, we’d end up being reasonably close in price – but most important, we’d probably end up fulfilling 95%+ of people’s needs and at a very fair price (saving quite a lot because we’d be getting what we actually need) and without having to chase around, becoming frustrated like I’ve been for several days.

OK – How to proceed???

I would assemble the spreadsheet from information provided by a few of the members willing to help – either because they have a little time to do some simple measuring – or out of self-interest. It’s likely that a lot of people will simply want to make sure that their needs are met and that the final list of o-rings included for the kit includes what they want. I’ll help personally with the measuring but my collection is still quite limited.

What information would be useful and/or essential for the spreadsheet?

Please don’t get overwhelmed by what I’m about to discuss. It’s really all common sense and we’re not at risk of blowing up a rocket. There are only a few essential pieces of information. Keep in mind that if we guess wrong on some, the cost per o-ring is likely to be only $0.01 to $0.05.

[ESSENTIAL INFO] Manufacturer & Model Name/Number of the Flashlight

(Alternate Names for the same Light from Different Suppliers would make sense as well.)

[ESSENTIAL INFO] O-ring function or location on the flashlight in question

(Why – because the o-ring between the lens and the crown must be full size so that it’s not sticking out and obscuring the lens but the o-rings for the tubes should be slightly tight to stay in place.)

[HELPFUL BUT NOT ESSENTIAL] Note that the Budget Light Manufacturers/Suppliers we deal with do not always supply the optimum size for the intended use so it would be nice to know the size of the original o-ring along with information regarding whether it seems that, for example, a thicker o-ring would more effectively fill the channel/slot provided for it. (Channel depth and width are both factors influencing this.)

Measuring Parameters: (What Dimensions Do We Need?):

We really only need two (2) dimensions for each o-ring suggested:

[ESSENTIAL INFO] ID: This is the Inner Diameter. The only thing to make sure of is that you are measuring it when it is round. (If it insists on remaining oval, take the long measurement and the short measurement and average them.) Note that you can measure the OD instead of the ID if you find it easier. We’ll just have to subtract 2 x THICKNESS to determine the ID.

[ESSENTIAL INFO] THICKNESS or WIDTH: This is exactly what it says – the cross sectional thickness of the rubber (measured easily with a caliper if you make sure not to squeeze or deform it).

[ESSENTIAL INFO ONLY IF YOU CHOOSE TO MEASURE OD INSTEAD OF ID] OD, or Outer Diameter is simply 2xTHICKNESS plus ID and does not need to be measured unless you’d prefer to measure the OD and subtract 2 x THICKNESS to calculate the ID.

(Some size charts don’t even bother listing the OD but I’ll include it in the spreadsheet anyway.)

A Minor Complication:

O-rings that have been on a flashlight tend to stretch a little bit so it would be useful to know whether the measurements you’re providing are taken from a “virgin” o-ring or from one that has been on a flashlight and been stretched a little. I'm unsure about just how stretchable the o-rings are. In other words, just how much smaller should the o-ring be than the particular tube that we want to cover - or do we order the exact dimension? (probably not) I’ve done a little bit of experimentation here and it seems that a “virgin” 25mm o-ring is roughly one or two mm less in diameter than one that has been stretched. I’d love to get some additional input on this because it probably makes sense to order just slightly smaller than the particular tube so that we get a “snug” fit.

As already mentioned, another variation of this question relates to the o-ring that fits between the lens and the crown. Many of us know from experience that this one should be an exact fit or it is difficult to place in the appropriate position without some of it "sticking out" from under the crown.

About Prices:

The best supplier I’ve seen so far is the one that Kreisler mentioned. I am not “wedded” to them and would be happy to consider any other supplier that has what we need but here’s the link (I hope) and I think you’ll be amazed at the selection they offer:

http://www.ir-dichtungstechnik.de/shop/shopping_cart.php

Kreisler says they have a minimum order of 10 Euros and international shipping is an additional 4.1 Euros. There is a VAT (value added tax) in Germany but I’m hoping that it can be waived if the kits are exported. It would also be possible for two or more people in the US, for example, to share a “kit” because the shipping within the US would probably only be a dollar or two. By the way, although I didn’t see the option on their order form, Kreisler says they accept PayPal – important for cross-border transactions.

To those who feel that the cost is too high, consider that the kits at Amazon and elsewhere are close in price but almost useless. Also, our time has value and chasing around for a particular size of o-ring can use up a lot of that time – not to mention gas.

A Note about Materials:

NBR (otherwise called Nitrile or Buna-N) is probably what we need, NOT Silicon (which is too vulnerable to various chemicals/oils). NBR also has the advantage of being the most prevalent and the CHEAPEST of all of the alternatives. Prices should vary roughly from $.01 to $.05. Just as important, we should be able to fulfill almost ALL of our needs from only ONE SOURCE! - and not have to chase around.

PilotPTK is correct that Viton is a better material but it is A LOT more expensive and I think unnecessary for our purposes. The links that follow will take you to some general information about o-ring materials and their properties:

http://www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3488/=h4iijj

The only other variable is Durometer hardness. It is usually either A70 or A90 but A70 is probably best for almost all of our needs.

LET'S DO THIS!

At the very least, we should assemble the spreadsheet.

A little more work to assemble a chart of needs for all the common lights and we can put together a very, very useful GROUP BUY - something that will save us all a lot of time and hassle (not to mention money). By the way, a GROUP BUY would not prevent each of us from ordering individually based on our own specific needs. The other people would simply not benefit from the package discount

COMMENTS AND SUGGESTIONS PLEASE!

(oops... replied to the other thread as well. Great idea, btw.)

Shiningbeam S-mini (18650): 14mm ID, 1mm thick. One at the front, one at the back. (measured from spares supplied with light... one off the light was slightly bigger)

thanks for your pm, fyi personally i am out for several reasons two logical of which are:

1. i own 12 lights (plus multiple copies of Tank E09) all of which came with 2x o-rings (or 1x o-ring or even more than 2x!!) so i got already lots of spare o-rings and never felt the need to exchange the installed ones. i use superlube (good) and nanoil (good too) to lube the o-rings. i seal special threads with silicone grease (instead of special glue) because the stuff is sticky. when i once placed an important order from IR-Dichtungstechnik.de (copper sealing washers for Protected 10440's) it didnt even cross my mind to include o-rings in my order. and yes, o-rings arent a trivial subject (material, perfect size), i guess it's hot engineering topic.

2. i am arguably(lit.) not a board of trustees trustee of board anymore and BFL frequenters (especially board seniors :davie:) know about it. you've used the word kreisler in your long post too often so that various potential participants feel :Sp yet.

The point is, we all share some history together...

...and i am **uck in mine

First, I think this is a great idea! Also, I followed the whole kreisler saga and I would trust you in a"heartbeat"! I think your just "silly" LOL! But I do understand others "maybe" having a problem. BUT.............Forgive, that you may be forgiven.

Keith (who forgives and has been forgiven)

Please, let"s don"t turn this into an attack on kreisler. If I have spoken out of turn, please "forgive me".

I love the idea of a spread sheet listing sizes for easy reference. I would not be in on this as I only need several sizes and already keep a stock of several in each. I also prefer GITD.

I do think we could add where to get the o-rings for a given size when not the usual 14-28mm range.

Well if a good source for 26mm GITD comes of this, I will be happy.

I tend to agree with JohnnyMac's view on this; I mean you'd have to have a pretty diverse collection to make a kit worthwhile. If you have a Solarforce centric collection, for example, having a bunch of different o-rings that are likely never going to get used seems wasteful, especially since we are all about the "budget". But, that being said, I guess it comes down to the perceived value of the kit once it is officially configured, so I'd likely seriously consider buying because of the way my personal collection has been growing past what is reasonable and/or rational as of late- darn peer pressure!

The chart, on the other hand, I think we can all agree on the usefulness of that.

And, for whatever it is worth, I don't see any reason why Kreisler should be banned from group buys; whether from the community, sb, or self-exiled. And that cartoon, that is so very apropos of his current situation, was funny to the point that I can't see how we can hold a grudge.

I'd like to add, if I may, that even if the spreadsheet and group buy never materialize, this post already proved useful to me because I learned a new word.

"obviate": to anticipate (as a situation) or make unnecessary (as an action).

So, for that alone, thanks, KumaBear.

As an aside and an FYI, I've been working with Ric to procure 52mm GITD o-rings for full sized Mags, the DRY triple, SR King, and whatever other lights they will fit. He is currently in the process of having them manufactured and hopefully they will be ready to buy in the near future. It should work out very well for him as it is near to impossible to get those o-rings in the last several years.

Hi Folks,

As is obvious, I'm a newbie on the BLF. I was totally unaware that there had been "history" regarding Kreisler and I'm sorry both because I've obviously "opened some old wounds" and more important, because I'm hoping that the references to Kreisler won't sour people on the idea of the Spreadsheet and perhaps, the Group Buy.

Needless to say, I would not handle the Group Buy. I hope to help by producing the Spreadsheet from your data (and mine). The usefulness of the Spreadsheet seems clear on its face. Clearly, I would like very much to see the Group Buy happen as well but we'll see how that develops.

The concept is sound, so the fact that kreisler put you in touch with a supplier doesn't really matter, and even if it did, it doesn't really reflect on you. Also, I wouldn't hazard to guess what the percentages are, but not everyone is still upset with kreisler. Did he F up, sure, but some of use just think he is a character and didn't have malicious intent. Not the really evil kind, anyway. I would like to believe that even those among us that want him tarred and feathered don't think that he never has good ideas/insight. So press on KumaBear.

Spreadsheet: +1

Oring GB: +0

Kreisler: +3

Idea of a spreadsheet is great, I still have no idea where to get a good 26-28mm oring that will fit my Keygos M12 as a zoom regulator. I ended up inserting a regular bag (or ice bag) rubber ring. Not ideal, but better than a springy wire.

I don't have that much flashlights to warrant getting a kit.

Kreisler was always so obvious to me that I found his "transgressions" amusing from the start. Even hilarious. Never seemed "evil" to me. I consider him an important part of this forum.

Good lick and thanks for your efforts KumaBear!

Viktor

If the price were right I guess I might consider a kit but . . . then I think about all the damn o-rings I have that will likely never see use. When this flashlight madness first began for me, I was convinced I needed a collection of o-rings in all sizes and colors and proceeded forth, acquiring all I imagined would someday be necessary.

Having now, about a dozen different little bags from as many different sellers; on the rare occasion I need another o-ring, none of the 200-odd inventory that was so prudently secured against every possible demand, are ever the right size. In fact, the only right sizes seem to be the extra o-rings included with some flashlights . . . which are piling up in ever more little bags.

For me also was a parallel imagined necessity of redundant, extra tail cap boots. I like to think of my changing taste in boot color as one of maturing to a more enlightened sense of flashlight style. Where before, I thought GITD or orange boots were the epitome of cool, I now disdain as rather gauche, lacking in development, something to grow out of.

What was the question?

hotairFoy

I live in Germany and can offer to help the international BLF members to buy products of the shop (I do not find any Paypal information on the homepage, only the normal bank account - I will phone them in a few hours and ask). I have a Paypal account and often domestic shipping + international shipping is cheaper as the 4 Euro, which the shop wants for international shipping.

If we have the spreedsheat with the o-ring information, I can handle an order and help people to buy some o-rings.

Hi Buwuve,

Thanks very much for your kind offer.

I look forward to hearing what the shop's reaction is.

Best Regards,

O-ring Project: What Info Do We Need?

Hi Foy!

Thanks for your reply - and I think I understand your situation.

For starters, it would be really great if you could list your flashlights (including some specific information). For example, there are several different Sipik 68 Clones and "Clones of Clones" multiple UltraFire versions of various lights, etc., etc. It would be nice if you could list each separately (as different models). As we know, information about the "Make" and "Model #" of a given flashlight is often not enough but if you add whether it is an authentic original or whether it came from a DX of DD or whomever, it would help people make a proper match to their own needs.

Having made a list of flashlights, we just need the OD (Outer Diameter), or ID (Inner Diameter) and the Thickness of the o-ring in question.

I should add that we would like to know if the o-ring measurement is from a "virgin" o-ring or from an o-ring that works well but has been stretched a little from being on a light already. The other helpful and/or useful information would include the position on the light where the o-ring is from. Examples would be "tube at switch end," or "up front between the lens and the crown," or "at the junction of the front/head and the battery tube," etc.

IF YOU’RE WILLING TO HELP:

I would appreciate suggestions for the following list. The list that follows will end up being the spreadsheet headings. I anticipate that each o-ring for a given flashlight will be a unique line item. Yes, that means that a given size o-ring will have a good chance of showing up multiple times (for each of the flashlights it fits).

Note that the following list is just a “Work-In-Progress.”

Brand Name or Other Description

Model Number

Model Name

Is this light an Original or a Clone?

If Clone, please add any identifying information (like version or source, etc)

This light is Sourced from?

O-ring Location(s)?

O-ring OD or ID (or both)?

O-ring THICKNESS?

Were Measurements taken from “Virgin” o-ring or Used O-ring?

Does the o-ring seem to fit well or should it be a little thicker because the channel is rather large for what has been supplied?

Another thought for those willing to help with this project:

It will be a lot easier than it seems from the list above. You’ll only need to answer the questions, not repeat them. Flashlight identifying information will only be listed once. Each o-ring used in that light will get a different entry. O-ring locations, sizes and “Virgin” or “Used” are the only data points needed.

Regards,

KumaBear

P.S. We may keep this really simple by asking the people gathering data to post to the link. We may also use Google Docs and I will probably also set up a KumaBear email account if that will help.

I tend to rather measure the diameters of the flashlights inner and outer diameter. The o-rings can be worn out, or they have gotten bigger over time through lube etc. Additionally it is a lot easier to measure metal than silicone with calipers.

Vectrex You make a good point. I’ve begun to experiment a little and it’s usually not very clear what size to get for any given purpose. I’ve noticed several things since I’ve begun to clean and lube threads and coat some o-rings with silicone:

First, the NBR o-rings have a good deal of stretch and it may be best to get them slightly small so that they will be snug.

The o-rings that have already been on a flashlight tend to measure larger than the spare “virgin” o-rings.

There are two main PROBLEMS (that I’ve experienced) in using a caliper on an o-ring:

A) It’s a little difficult to get the exact thickness although I really don’t think it needs to be a precise measurement. It seems to me that getting the thickness to the closest 0.5mm is adequate. From what I know in the early stages of investigating the subject, I’m hoping that the following thicknesses will satisfy 95% of our needs: 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5 and 3.0 mm.

B) Measuring the OD seems to be a little easier than the ID but either way, it’s hard to get some o-rings to remain round while doing it.

Here are some PRELIMINARY THOUGHTS & OBSERVATIONS

1) It seems that more than one size (diameter) will work well for the same place on a given flashlight.

2) Measuring the diameter of the flashlight tube with a caliper is very easy and may yield enough information to calculate the required o-ring diameter.

IMPORTANT: we might be able to develop a series of formulas to translate the tube diameter (at the channel where the o-ring sits) into the needed o-ring diameter. Here are some prototypical examples. (Note that these are definitely not correct at this point. They’re simply intended to give you an idea what I mean):

If the o-ring channel (or slot) on the tube exterior is

14 to 18 mm, subtract 1mm to get the appropriate ID for the o-ring

19 to 23 mm, subtract 1.5mm to get the appropriate ID for the o-ring

24 to 26 mm, subtract 2mm to get the appropriate ID for the o-ring

27 to 30 mm, subtract 2mm to get the appropriate ID for the o-ring

31 to 34 mm, subtract 2.5mm to get the appropriate ID for the o-ring

35 to 39 mm, subtract 2.5mm to get the appropriate ID for the o-ring

40 to 45 mm, subtract 3mm to get the appropriate ID for the o-ring

46 to 50 mm, subtract 3mm to get the appropriate ID for the o-ring

51 to 60 mm, subtract 3.5mm to get the appropriate ID for the o-ring

3) The o-ring that sits between the crown and the lens on most flashlights is a SPECIAL CASE. It also may be the easiest to properly size. All you need to do is measure the exposed diameter of the lens when the flashlight is assembled. (This might have to be done with a caliper.) In other words, the Inner Diameter of the crown should be about the same as the o-ring ID. We DO NOT want to make the o-ring stretch very much at all in this case because of the difficulty in stuffing it into place. By the way a ruler or tape measure could be used on many crowns, particularly if the crown is off the light.

4) Frankly, I don’t think a ruler or tape measure is such a bad idea for many situations.

5) ANOTHER THOUGHT: We might be able to persuade some of the light manufacturers to tell us what sizes they use for some of their lights – particularly people like Hank and Ric. Some of the group members seem to have developed good relationships with these people.

About PRICING and the original idea of a KIT:

I’m beginning to realize that there is a VERY large difference in price from one supplier to another BUT (as you’d expect) in order to get the lower prices, you need to order in quantity. I’m also just beginning to gather some facts but WE REALLY NEED MORE DATA to pursue this further.

Everyone - PLEASE TAKE A FEW MINUTES and contribute some measurements!

A CRAZY (or not so CRAZY) IDEA (in the event we cannot put together a “Universal Kit” – or we can’t convince a single supplier to sell to us in this way.

Now, what I’m about to say may seem “off-the-wall” crazy but here goes: I have no idea how many different o-rings would satisfy say 95% of our needs. Just for purposes of discussion, let’s say that we would need 50 different sizes. I’m also guessing at this point but let’s also say that we would have to order a minimum of 100 of each to get a good price.

Perhaps a BLF MEMBER! could order between 100 and 300 of each size – all to be shipped to him. Now a really wild guess – Let’s say he would need to order between 7,500 and 10,000 o-rings in total. I may be overly optimistic in this but I’m going to guess/hope that the total investment would be between $100 and $200.

Now here comes the CRAZIEST part of this plan - The BLF Member becomes OUR SUPPLIER! And “Custom Orders/Kits” could be assembled by the BLF Member/Supplier.

Some IDEAS/OBSERVATIONS:

1) Most of the o-rings will go unused.

2) It will take a lot of someone’s time and a significant amount of his money to do this.

3) We need A LOT MORE DATA to make this work.

4) We would want to ask all the members to estimate the mix of o-rings that they would be likely want.

5) GROUND RULES for ORDERING would need to be established. For example:

MINIMUM ORDER VALUE (or COST per order) - say $5 plus shipping. (Note that shipping from the US to the US would be cheap because of the light weight. I checked some shipping rates to other countries and some are very reasonable as well.)

6) It seems that the price per o-ring (for our members) could be competitive to very competitive while still giving the BLF SELLER enough margin to compensate him for the unused o-rings, the packaging, gas money to go to the Post Office multiple times, being willing to take the risk, his time, etc.

VERY, VERY IMPORTANT: The Kit Idea – whether a Universal (Single Mix) of O-rings from an unrelated Supplier or the Crazy Idea described above may or may not see the light of day (or LEDs, if you prefer – sorry about the attempt at a joke). BUT, BUT, BUT, EVERYONE seems to think the Spreadsheet/Database would be HIGHLY USEFUL ----SOOOOOO PLEASE HELP OUT AND SUPPLY SOME MEASUREMENTS.

Reactions and Ideas are welcome!

Best Regards

It takes some days because I was really busy. The normal way to pay is with a money transfer per bank. Within the Euro countries a banktransfer normally cost nothing, if you use the IBAN and the BIC code.

Normally they do not offer Paypal, but I ask and they tell me, that I can pay with paypal but only if I order for more than 10€.

One thing about the dimensions:

In Germany you measure the inner diameter and the strengh of the O-Ring (in german "Schnurstärke"). The O-rings of DX measure the outer diameter.

I will not do this, but I can offer a a group buy every 4-6 weeks, if enough user want some o-rings.

If 3 or more peole of one country want some o-rings, it would be the cheapest way to send them to one person and this person send them forwards to the two other members.

I've just ordered a pack of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260765537210?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
I'll update as to their suitability when they arrive.

I measure the following - everything in millimeter:

Ultrafire 504B - diameter lense:29,45mm outer diameter of the batterytube, where the o-ring is placed:20,38mm

Solarforce L2p 2011version (a blue) - diameter lense: 27,8mm outer diameter of the batterytube, where the o-ring is placed: 20,48mm

Uniquefire UF2190 - diameter lense: 41,5mm outer diameter of the batterytube, where the o-ring is placed: 20,95mm