I'm looking to manhandle a budget flashlight, I want something that is rough and tumble,l doesn't mind a quick dip in puddle. I'd like something that I can drop on cement a few times and don't mind tossing it over to a friend 20 feet away. I'd like it to have a standard 1" body to mount it when needed. Something that I can take on a camping trip, take to the beach etc.
Are leds toughest emitters?
What are the toughest bodies/emitters you have?
Welcome to BLF!
LED emitters don´t mind much about drops or high G-forces.
Probably the easiest part to brake is the glass but on a basic P60 host, it is a matter of a buck or two to replace it.
I myself bought an used Solarforce L2m host and I have been using it well over a year at metal industry.
Moisture, heat, oil and dust are present. Have tossed it a couple of times to concrete, dipped it. OK, it has a bit surface wear and UCL glass has some metal sparks stuck in it but otherwise it is as functional as day 1.
If you get some Solarforce host and a dropin of your choice, you will not lose too much of your pennies but you will get a sturdy light...
You're not going to be mounting this thing, but it meets all the other criteria:
Well, I hate to say this. It goes against everything I normally say bit go for a Surefire. I have a g2x I got for 50 dollars. It has gone to hel l and back and still works like new. It isn’t the brightest at 200 lumens but that thing can take anything and keep on going. If you keep an eye on cpfmp you can still find them for this price.
easy no-brainer... Surefire G2. Got mine for $24 used and added the solarforce bezel. You'll probably want to stay with the OEM plastic bezel though if you are going to be throwing it at each other. I use it to host this incan lamp linked below.
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/xenon-bulb-7-4v-15w-3218?item=4
reminds me of typical cpf threads..
they have expensive suggestions: HDS, titanium light (mc gizmo??), surefire, etc.
i protect my lights with baaloons and heat shrink wrap. that be enough
That may be the case, but the OP has a difficult set of parameters with his drop, pitch, throw, toss + shallow splash/submerge requirement.... and would like it to be 1" mount capable. I think a used SF-G2 around $25-30 is still in the affordable range, and it meets all his requirements without compromise.
Normally a solarforce L2 would be my recommendation... but since the OP is going to be THROWING it around (20 feet !!), forget that.
I've broken 2 502b and a 504b already. Not crying but they seemed very study. I'm looking for something tougher.
I'm interested in the Surefire G2 but the light is a bit anemic. The Solarforce P1 interests me too. Would like at least 200-300 lumen range. Do either of those accept a P60 module? I'm pretty sure the P1 does.
Solarforce L2P with reverse clicky $18.99 plus shipping
http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FB&s=7&id=417
Solarforce XML 3 mode drop-in $15.50 plus shipping
http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=40&id=369
AW IMR 18650 2000mAh battery $10.89 each
Ultrafire WF-139 charger $12.75
http://www.supertmanufacturing.com/id75.html
Dude! That's sick!
:davie:
Welcome to BLF, Agent Tikki. I'm thinking Solarforce P1 and the drop of your choice. It's plastic and is available in colors; easy to find yellow, earth tones for stealth, and basic black for formal affairs. The bezel isn't super aggressive so it shouldn't tear your pants up but protrudes far enough to stand a reasonable chance at protecting the glass. And I'm sure you could find a way to "mount it".
+1 on that suggestion of a P1.
The only addition I would add is a custom drop-in from our own E1320. Fully potted and custom programmed. Better drop-in than a nailbender and less expensive, too! In a P1 it'd be a nearly indestructible light.
+1Million... I forgot about the solar P1, a better light than the SF-G2 (IMHO). E1320 does outstanding work, and he programs his drivers with his own custom software.
What, concurring opinions on my suggestion? That can't be right, can it? Well, I guess it's true, even a blind dog will find a bone once in awhile. To save time Tikki time, here is the link to Foy's thorough P1 review.
Aloha and welcome to BLF Agent Tikki!
Yep, ditto...
I have even been thinking of "upgrading" my workhorse to P1, still forgot.
Do you need 1-mode or 3-mode dropin, do you need falshy modes and are you allergic to PWM?
Thx for all the warm welcomes guys, I'm getting the warm fuzzys! 
What exactly is a PWM? and I'm more interested in a 3 mode, the 5 mode is too.....busy.
This is a $9 Tank TK703. My light.
7 metres drop
Higher end
PWM is pulse width modulation. Its how the DC-DC circuit dims the LED output for low modes, by rapidly cycling it on/off/on/off. A poorly designed circuit will power cycle the frequency low enough (Hz) to be detected by the human eye. It makes moving objects appear jumpy, spotty and "scattered"... PWM "flicker" is the common term used to describe it. Many users are highly sensitive to it, while some are not. So its a completely subjective thing. For me its like looking at a strobe. My two worst PWM offenders are set at ~100Hz and 135Hz. I find them unusable in lower modes. Unfortunately, manufacturers almost never publish PWM frequency... so you are left to reviews and user feedback for this kind of thing. The E1320 drivers I have do not have visible PWM flicker, so I would suspect his P60 drop-ins do not either.
MARDUKE on BLF!!! I guess it was only a matter of time.
I think this energizer hard case light deserves a mention, although its around $45 so it may not be affordable to many. Its also only ~75 lumens, out-dated by todays standards.