So i think it’s about time they start to manufacture these or something simular any second’s on the motion???
So i think it’s about time they start to manufacture these or something simular any second’s on the motion???
I cant make it from the pictures, is the back pad from the 7135 also sodered or only the 3 front legs?
I solder only the 3 front legs, but you can also solder only front left/right leg and back.
The middle leg is the same, as the back leg (mass) ;)
Thank you, I going to try this one of these days.
I have a 4X7135 driver that has been damaged (while I tryed to remove it from the pill of a brinyte C5 Xml), that can be scavanged for the 7135s.
Andi,
And couple of questions about your piggyback pictures:
Do you make a 90 degree bend the three leds of the 7135 to help solder it to the existing 7135?
Also, what type solder are you using?
Nice mod!
DMC
Yes, i bend the leds of the 7135 near 90 degrees.
I hold it with a tong and bend legs with Fingernail, as far as possible at the end of the leg.
I bend not all 3 legs at the same time, i bend leg for leg in chanche. If you bend all 3 legs at the same time you have no "feeling".
Solder, hmmmm....only "normal" Solder.
For adding solder while soldering the 2 7135 piggyback, my solder is too thick, i blanch both soldering points or/and use solder on my soldering iron.
Very neat job. If you are thinking use it with an XM-L maybe is not a good idea.
UF P10 8 MC7135 2.8A against YEZL Z1 9 MC7135 3.15A XM-L T6 both...
First measure at start , then at 20 seconds , third at 5 minutes...both bodies have similar thermal resistance , the Yezl's is a bit bigger with a brass pill against a aluminiun one .
There's two measures because the second was made with the cells switched to null that issue.
The Lumens are inflated ...the ambient temperature here is 15 C , at 5 minutes boths heads became warm perhaps at 45 C...the P10 has mass added to the pill but I don't think that at 5 minutes this is an issue to count, maybe I'm wrong and this test must be done with the same body ...
P10 2.8A ; 1160 L 1123 L 1140 L
1200 L 1150 L 1140 L
Z1 3.15A; 1220 L 1060 L 990 L
1180 L 1080 L 960 L
Yes, you should compare same body and best, also same LED.
Or Z1 with 2,8A, or P10 also with 3,15A.
Yezl Z1 at 2.8A ,
At start 1100L at 20 seconds ,1040 L at 5 minutes 950 L
Apparently the P10's body dissipate the heat more efficiently since has almost not thermal sag . Anyway beside the at start output the flux is almost the same. At more current, say 3.5A , the results obviously should be worst .
This results could be predicted reading the datasheet carefully . Relative Flux vs. Junction Temperature isn't a bogus chapter which could be skipped simply ignoring it, is there for a reason
Ok, now you have tested EDC light´s, that´s not really made for a XML.
I think, in a Trustfire X8 it´s be much better with good heat transfer ;)
p.s. in my P10 i have no 3,5A driver....i use driver + the LED of Ultrafire P60 XML dropin. Last measurement at HIGH = 4,6A LOL
If LED be dead, i chanche driver, but it still works.
But your right, heat transfer should be very good, else temperatur will reduce the "more light" ;)
I would say, a XML is good til 3500mA, over 3500mA it will produce much more heat and near nothing more lumens.
(my 3,9A driver was only a test) ;)
Now i also solder the back legs, because of much better heat transfer of upper 7135 ;)
Forgotten to stop soldering...
For test with LiMn and 3 x XML.
wow you did forget !
This is exactly what I was looking for to increase driver output…perfect!
hahah
nice ,if you can post more pics pls.
for me its so dificult to solder even one piece their pins are so so small.
I was able to do a 10x7135 very easily once I bent the pins of the top chips down. Use small needle nose pliers and bend them to a 90 degree perpendicular. The drop down perfectly and almost touches the pins of the botom chip. Its a _MUCH _smaller (and easier) gap to solder bridge over. I don’t know how you would do a 3x or more stack though.
Anxiously waiting for your 26x7135 driver test results!!
thanks for the tip.
Sure np…. and for the record I absolutely could not do the mod without bending the tabs down. It was just too big of a gap to bridge with too many adjacent solder points. I would always end up bridging “sideways” contacts instead of straight down. Solder braid saved me though… good stuff to have around it can clean up even the most sloppy jobs.