We just did the lumen/lux testing yesterday and we also were surprised at the lower readings on the c8 t6. The last time we tested it it made a much better showing at around 770 lumens iirc. I was also a little disappointed in the readings of my small sun. It barely cracked the 30 k cd mark and I have been reading about results anywhere from about where mine is up to about 55k cd. It did however impress me in the real life throw test ( in the forest ), making the 400m mark.
That's one helluva reference right there! Give that brother of your's a big bear hug from the guys on BLF for helping you and making this come together. And tell him to give you one back too :-) TY!
Yeah the driver in the C8 T6 appears to be inconsistent. It varies its output for some reason. We have tested it about higher before and also about 3.5amps at the tailcap. But it was obviously off on this test. I guess quality control on it is so-so. But its still impressive for the $12 my brother paid for it. The C8 U2 has so far tested consistent over multiple tests. I’m very impressed with that light. Cost me $18 at Lightmalls. It’s output does demand a good 18650 I’ve noticed too. Put a bigger head and reflector on that light & it would stay up with the m3c4 and 7g5 I think.
The kings are always fun to play with. The T6 version use to be mine but I recently sold it to my brother, manxbuggy1, when the black U2 version came out(like scaru said). Both are awesome lights. As you can see the U2 version does put out a few more lumens, but it drops them faster than the T6 version. You guys think that is maybe due to the LED’s heating up or not quite enough heat sinking?
We do have a Jacobs A60 on order. I’ve been looking at the HD2010 too, just not sure if I can justify the $40 they cost. It’s obviously a nice light, but since we have several other high output XML lights it just doesn’t seem to make sense. If I can find a good deal on one, I would still like to add it to our collection.
The CP@1m is done with my candlepower tool, basically a 2 x 4 device with a mounting place for my meter sensor and a shooting block measured out at exactly a meter for flashlight placement. So the lights were tested at 1 meter. We may add a longer test, like 10m for a more accurate test down the road. But I guess even our 50m test could be used to test the lux too, though that’s a little far for that type of testing. Good for for comparison sakes I guess.
Btw, let's not forget Don's reference:
Excellent work on the testing. Very good reference chart.
Thank you!
It helps me to decide which models that I don’t need to own and points me toward those I absolutely need to add to my collection.
A couple of chart questions, what are the SolarForce dropins and whats the Eagletac D25C clicky number slash on the 30 second otf?
Yeah good for comparative but the throwers would be better at distance, I think 2100 suggests distances like the 50m will be much more accurate for high power throwers. Your Crelant reading converted from 50m = just over 60k which matches my measurement of that light at 8m almost perfectly.
Ps, I hope none of this comes over negatively, like I said great work, I know a lot of effort must of gone into this:)
The solarforce L2M we think is a clone. It was purchased with a XML t6 driver installed. That’s about all we know about that one. The L2 actually has a drop in my brother got from Eric here on this Forum. It’s a nice 3.5amp XML U2 he setup for my brother. It’s a nice light with that pill of his. Only thing holding it back is the small head the solarforce lights have.
And guys I have only been at this flashlight game for just under a year. So I know I have stuff to learn and welcome any constructive criticism and suggestions. I’m fortunate that my brother is also just as addicted as I am and thus the reason for having accumulated almost 40 lights between us in 10 months. We actually have quite a few more, but they arn’t worthy of testing. Two make testing much easier. It also makes this flashlight addiction much harder to control. Every time I get to a stopping point, he buys another light, so of course I have to get one too, and etc.
Good job! 
Oh and the D25c clicky’s two readings are - 397otf after 30sec. with a cr123, and the 650otf at 30sec was with a AW IMR. That is one bad little dude with the IMR. Heck it’s even a serious little light with a stock cr123 in it. I have the titanium version and my brother has the aluminum version. Both test almost identical. That Ti light is likely my favorite light of the bunch. It puts out a serious wall of light for a little guy under 3”. And it has enough power to throw decent too, for a compact light of course.
Thanks, that is some great information. Nice of you to take the time to share it with us.
The Ultra OK Tactical 4xAAA at 1300 lumens??? Someone said they got 608 on high. But I’d love to see what you get with the Trustfire X8 and HD2010. Thanks.
1300 lumens is what the site it was bought from rated it at. It gets nowhere near that - 335otf is what we tested it at. We did try 18650’s and 26650 a while ago. It did get slightly better than the 4xaaa’s we did now. But it really is an underachiever regardless of the battery choice. It’s a shame since its a nice looking light.
Thanks! Nice work!
From where did you get that Ultrafire C8 U2?
My bad; by “official,” you meant what the company put it at. I see now it is the next rows that matter. I thought that was your rated figure. But 335 seems too low anyways. Maybe 455. Or just at or close to 600 at startup on a good 18650 is what I’d expect, and that’s pushing it. But yes, for sure an underachiever—but excellent for throwaway uses and very throwy.
Lightmalls
Just updated my listing with the HD2010 and Jacob A60 that we just received and tested. The Jacob does have the LED star re-applied with thermal compound since it basically had none from the factory. It comes with a paper barrier underneath the star that causes power to drop rapidly in stock form. Otherwise it’s stock.
And lastly the hd2010 and Jacob were tested last night in a little cooler and drier weather than most the others, so they performed really well. Irregardless, they are both excellent performers and a great addition to the collection.
rdrfronty - wish you lived nearby to test some of my lights! Great Job!!
Some of these lights are direct drive, and therefore, very dependent on the battery. Is it possible to provide more info on the batteries used? For example, the HD2010 runs higher amps with a full charged King Kong (26650) unprotected, and my C8 U2 from LightMalls runs 5.1A on a Panasonic unprotected (3100 or 3400). Another option is to provide the amps reading that match up to these lumens and lux numbers. Just ideas/suggestions.
All lights were tested using standard protected 18650’s, 16340’s, 26650’s, CR123’s, etc. other than the D25C clicky and BC10 that was noted tested with both IMR and standard cr123. All possible were Eagletac batteries, with a few 4sevens etc. thrown in. None were ultrafires or other questionable batteries. Basically I’m saying none but the two were direct driven.
I do agree that might be a good addition to the chart - listing the specific cells tested on each light. And we’ve tested the amps on many, so I guess we could complete the rest too. Some might be beyond what I can test like multicell big lights, but I can do the majority I think. I’ll see what we can do with that. Thanks for the suggestion.