i do not think any filament you buy will be as strong or as temp resistant as plastic used in handguns.
iirc the toughest filament is carbon fiber, (there are also pla\abs with c\fibers) but it requires 300c temp, and you’d need stainless steel print tip.
my printer only goes up to 260c
Next time you seem him say thank you for me. 
Soon I’ll get one made if I ever stop procrastinating 
Nothing that is 3d printed, using the FDM technology, is as strong as injection molded plastic.
At least not at this point.
That doesnt mean that 3d printed objects are not strong.
I’m looking at the creality ender 2. Nice and little 3d printer.
Would be great to be able to print some small prototype’s.
Yeah, that is the pre-gcode
Gotta tweak it a bit before you run it…it extrudes that tiny bit before it lowers to the bed to prime the nozzle…on my after g-code I have it retract 4mm before it shuts down to prevent the oozing from the hot end cooling down but the plastic still soft
If worse comes to worse…put a dab of blue loktite on the threads on stuff that comes loose…all the screws on my Anet A8 are loktited
Print alot of small calibration items…tweak, then re-print, tweak re-print
other people on forums and whatnot will have better cura and slic3r profiles to use as well
Might even try to take your bed, and put on your knee and see if you can flex it flat again…also might get a piece of glass to see if it can flatten it out
I’ll shaddap now and let the forum return to it’s regularly scheduled postings
I bought a TronXY X1 for $109 a while back with a coupon…it’s gone up $20-30 though
“XT-CF20 is a blend of the Co-polyester filament called Amphora 3D from Eastman Chemical and chopped carbon fibers” look at this(guy made whole drone out of that): Talk Manufacturing | Hubs
I’m thinking about getting the Prusa i3 MK3. It’ll run around $750 but it has some really cool features and I’ve seen some amazing prints with it. One of the main problems with my wanhao i3 clone is the bed leveling and XYZ squaring because of the frame. The Prusa has 9 point automatic mesh bed leveling as well as automatic Z axis leveling (horizontally). For the price you get a printer with features that most will not have. Not to mention an advertised 200+ mm/s with proper settings.
that is cool, i love it. the filament seems strong enough for drone, thou i do not see much practical sense in it thou, it would be easier and faster to do it using real cf sheets and tubes.
the whole reason i got 3d printer is to print rc planes, i’ve been building and flying cl\rc planes since i was 12, little did i know that the time it takes to set printer up, tweak everything and print the plane (3d lab files) would take longer than it took me to build them old school way, from balsa, foam or fiberglass. i tough i’ll print up few, and when i crash one i’ll just rip servos\radio\motor…. and install it on the other, but now it does not seem like an easy, nor fast thing to do.
finally got printer working, this thing is awesome once i learned how to use it, now i need to learn mashmixer, and make my own stl files, really want to build a flashlight.
still no luck with the plane, still too much stringing, but i’ll figure that out too someday.
There are TONS more printers that are cheaper…and can easily be modded to use autobed levelling and for very cheap too
Even my sub $200 Anet A8 with some 3D printed mods it can hang with many of the higher priced printers…sure there is a learning curve…but if you are persistent you can get some really amazing prints
Even though Prusa makes one HECK of a awesome 3D printer
Stringing is caused by not enough retraction, or not fast enough
My default is 4.5mm at 40mm/s (depending on the filament type and temps) and I do a z-hop of .5 to prevent dragging of the nozzle thru the last layer
Print calibration cubes (I print cali_cats ….kids love em)
It takes a bit of tweaking here and there to dial it in…but once it’s dialed in…man printers (any CNC machine) can do some amazing things!
Here is a link to a few of my timelapse video’s (my channel)
jump on a FB forum…these guys know ALOT and can help you dial it in
i played with retraction, printed test figure, (2 poles) at10mm retraction, 70mms speed, 30mm\s print speed, it came out beautiful, not a single hair, as if it was molded, not printed, but when i printed plane’s wing, it still had lots of strings, with same settings. but like i said, i will figure it out one day. i went to forums, but all they can offer is what i already knew, play with retraction distance, speed, temp, and try different brand filament. not that i would have any better advise thou.
but i’m not really worried about plane, there are so many other cool things to print. pretty much everything else besides the plane comes out great. almost no flaws. i have cr10s
I got some help and re-designed a flexing 18650 battery holder/charger to fit the 18500
CR-10S……I are jelly man…
I have 3-3D printers…and all 3 of mine put together isn’t as volume=value as the CR-10
Huge build volume…and low cost…you did good on your printer man!
Best of the best for the price right now is the Ender-3
It costs around 300 euros so it is not expensive either… Thanks on tip.