Is there anything magnetic inside it? I tried some 7135's, and they don't stick to my 165 pound magnet.
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+1, perfect would be set up with pin headers that you could plug the 7135 into with a pad for an XML and a set of pins to measure current.
I just made a breakout/test board, solder in headers, use clips, run it thru your multimeter to measure current, and run to an LED to see if it flickers or runs constant
Its only going to pull 350mA or 380mA depending on the model of AMC7135
https://www.oshpark.com/shared_projects/9PW34UTF
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Nothing on the bottom really
Biggest trick will be figuring out a way to hold the AMC7135 to the board to test, I am thinking possibly tinning the pads so they are raised a tiny bit, then use whatever to hold it down for continuity
This is the best I have so far, sorry it’s so simple, it’s not really a big board either, but that is a good thing as it keeps the price down, fixing it to a larger platform like Cereal_Killer did would be the best idea
2 layer board of 0.5x0.73 inches (13x19mm). $1.80 for three.
Per the schematic from the datasheet it shows a .1µF cap between the Bat+ and Bat-(ground) does it really need to be there since we are feeding voltage from a battery?
Why don’t you turn the chip 180 degree?
Reverse your LED and BAT PADs left to right and top to bottom. You can then make your lands a bit shorter and more direct? LED- would go where you have BAT + and so on.
Edit; yeah, 180 degree spin…
So I’ve got a simple and cheap idea for a reliable hold down. Get a #10 or #12 flat washer at the hardware store, clip/snip a slot in one side so you have a U-shaped opening, and then glue it to the board centered around the 7135. Being that this board is so small though you may need to snip four flats into the O.D. to clear the pads.
Another (simpler?) option is to find any plastic or metal bits you have laying around and glue them to make a locator slot for the 7135 (along the sides). I would do this by first soldering in a chip and butting up said pieces, letting the glue set, then de-soldering the chip. This would allow you to pretty easily/reliably test these little buggers using your finger or a clothespin
How about vias on the spacing of the pins instead of the footprint but still have a large ground area behind the chip you can solder a copper alligator clip to with the end of one jaw shortened. The clip is grounded and holds the chip down against the vias. I agree on flipping the +\ pads.
Oh yeah…flip it and the traces automatically become shorter…duh…
I flipped it and immediately smacked my forehead all “I coulda had a V8”
How about doing it through hole instead of smd, that should make testing easiest
That’s what I meant with the vias Serifus.
Since this is only for 350-380 mA testing why not just put an led pad on the board with several vias and the entire backside minus the other vias copper pour.
Done
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/sKVvs972
I aligned the via’s to the SMD pads, they should have continuity all the way thru and I even drew a little box to show which direction it should be plugged into the holes
Untested…so unsure if the thru hole will have good continuity…but at under $2.00 ain’t breaking the bank if it’s a bust
I was thinking about putting a XR-E or XP-E pad on there, with a broken trace w/ headers so an ammeter could be put inline to test the current flow of the chip
Consensus wise do you guys think this would be the best path for this?
I was trying to keep it simple (at least if I do put em on there…we have something we can finally use all these XR-E’s on huh 
)
I suppose I could just epoxy a 10mm star between led +/- but could you please add a ground pour between B+/- to solder a clip to?
Do you want the pad on the SMD or the thru hole?
Ah hell…standby…I’ll whip one up…wait one
+1 :bigsmile: but still add the pour for the clip. Pretty please?
I’m good with pads for any led but mtg. Xp is smaller but I have old xre’s too. Since the center pad is neutral on Cree LEDs the entire backside minus the 7135 vias and pin headers could be via’d to the center pad. A 1mm via under the ciip pour would allow a through wire to secure the clip and prevent trace lift.
Pad on the through hole. That seems best for swapping out chips.
OK
XP-E on board, thruhole, entire backside is metal coated (vias to the back of board for heatsinking[at 350-380mA will it really make that much heat])
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/N90wyAmQ
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I think i might order a set of those.
Anyone for the SMD or is the thruhole what people are leaning towards?
