The WSWKT seems very aggressive even on the 220. But so darn fast on the 6000.
OMG…cheapest is still usd $129 shipped to Singapore. BTW is it really 110V only?
Now you got me wanting one……
You are in the US of A. What are you waiting for?
I have way too many wants right now lol……time to get back to school gear for the kids. :money_mouth_face:
I got mine from Northern Tools for $69.95 but since they have a store in my State I had to pay sales tax which brought it to $75.
The box only contains up to 6000 grit belts. To get 12000 grit belts I made an order to the dealer linked up above. The belts are $.59 each but shipping is $12.50 minimum.
Ok for international shoppers, here are the cheaper options. It’s usd44 via USPS Priority and usd69.90 product price.
http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/Worksharp-Knife-and-Tool-Sharpener-WSKTS-Stock-Ready-ship-/230846174894?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bf8116ae
Same price at sharpening dot com. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/shipmeth.aspx
Get a 12V to 120V 300W inverter on ebay/aliexpress. USD30. According to worksharp, this is the only supported solution. 240V to 120/110V inverters would void the warranty.
stevetexas, 12k grit is good!
All you need is a flat piece of wood and an old pair of jeans in which you will cut a coton strop to be glued onto the wood, and to apply your diamond paste on.
That’s what i’m doing for my straight razors, and then I’m using chromium oxide on a leather strop to “break” the aggresivity given by the diamond paste. The last step is to strop on a “nude” leather strop. Straight razors really needs to be polished to give smooth shaving.
But for a knife that you will not use to shave with, I presume that you don’t need all this “sophistication”. I don’t know about “faux leather” but if it retains the diamond paste, it is probably good to use, and worth the try.
Thanks Tallyho. Well personally I think the level of sophistication also has to do with the knife. If it’s a knife with a M390 or M4 blade then i guess the work is worth it. If it’s just 9Cr13mov which loses that hair whittingly edge (10 mins of effort) fast with just cutting up 1 cupboard package then it’s not worth it. Of course it’s crazy to buy a $150 M390 blade to just cut cardboard in real life, but i think with flashlights even at the budget level (plus good batteries, chargers, meters like DMM/lux meter), we are even crazier. 
Finally a bit of revenge for all of those cheap HIDs you're taunting us with... 
[quote=2100] Get a 12V to 120V 300W inverter on ebay/aliexpress. USD30. According to worksharp, this is the only supported solution. 240V to 120/110V inverters would void the warranty. stevetexas, 12k grit is good! [/quote]
Likely due to the 50hz power you have. We run 110V 60hz over here, and some motors don't like the switch. I found that out the hard way with a record player (remember those?)
Doh! Yeah, i did say usd130 shipped for the 85W Aliexpress/Ebay HID is cheap and good way to get the lumens.
And you remmeber the 40W Magicfire scorpion that costs $200 shipped and 65W Magicfire that is 280 shipped. Plus 4 x good cells @ $50.
But nah…not getting the Work sharp. The usd30 300W inverter is a square waveform type. The pure sine wave ones are like 60 bucks. Someone did say at bladeforums that it ran on his inverter but not in detail. Work Sharp says it is ok on 12/24V car inverters. And i think my 12V PSU puts out 150W only.
You’re right. Furthermore I had SRM, Enlan, etc knives in mind when responding, sorry.
That’s a great story. I used Kumabear because my wife calls me “Kuma” as a nickname.
I’m from Canada but my wife is Japanese.
I also forgot to mention that the exduct system cannot do serrated blades.
Nah don’t say that. Looks like i am wrong! You into hardcore straight shaving?
What the?! 
_Maestro Wu D-4 Cleaver sharpened (or honed) using the Wicked Edge (WEPS) with Shapton Stones up to 30K, then finishing with Ken Schwartz’s .125u CBN, and a few strops on the Kanayama 50,000 strop. Olivia’s King Kong Shaving cream and a Penworks Brush. I have over 9 years of straight razor shaving experience - DO NOT try this at home!
_
The Lansky systems are great! Or, the Smith’s. Same thing, pretty much. I use my Lansky when they need a lot of work. Not good for small blades, though.
For compounds, I really like stropman.com’s stuff. I’ve used all kinds of diamonds, powders and pastes, his stuff works pretty good. The black is probably my favorite for knives and really all you’d need. Use that on leather then go to plain leather. Wow.
Truth is, most any system will work and work well. You just have to take time and learn it is all.
However, I find I get some of the best results fastest using two different grit pocket size Arkansas stones and a couple drops of oil.
Now that is crazy .
For the first twenty years I barbered , I gave straight razor shaves . It was a money loser , because I could make more money in the same amount of time cutting hair . But I did it anyway , because I wanted to preserve the tradition that my father and all of the past barbers had handed down .
For the last ten years I haven't picked up the razor . I just don't want the hassle of keeping razors sharp , buying lather and lather machines and keeping them running , singeing my hands with steam towels and losing money , etc.
Most modern barbers today that still shave that I know use replaceable blade razors and lather out of a can .
But shaving with a cleaver , man that takes some balls .
Yeah man, the next thing you know would be someone shaving with a katana. 
Anyway, for those who don’t want to spend like nearly 50 bucks on a 2 Oz bottle of 0.125 CBN / 0.025 polycrystalline diamond spray or nearly 20 bucks for a Norton 0.5 5gram syringe, you can sample this usd4.90 shipped 0.25 micron diamond paste. This would work on the suede side of the leather i guess since it’s oil based paste. Of course there’s talk about some “particle agglomeration” of the stuff for these cheap ali/ebay stuff compared to the $$$ sprays, but just for cheap thrills as this is BLF.
There are two similar threads and many posts on this subject…too many for me to read though so I’ll ask this even if it has already been asked…
What can all these more expensive sharpening systems do that two stones and a piece of leather can’t do?
I have the Smith’s® Diamond Field Sharpening Kit, Two-Step Knife Sharpener - Carbide & Ceramic, Smith’s Sharpeners JIFF-S Jiff “V” Sharp Knife & Scissors Sharpener and many other sharping systems.
What I’ve found is that the “Two-Step Knife Sharpener” works great and is only $4! First starts on the Carbide side then go to the ceramic side… super simple… now just using the “Two-Step Knife Sharpener” works great for machetes but for my knives… I like to get them extra sharp… I then use an Arkansas stone to polish the edge and get it shaving sharp… that’s it! Remember on the stones… you don’t want to try and sharpen the knife… just try to cut a thin layer off the stone… and alternate sides to keep the edge uniform. My knives are shaving sharp… using cheap sharpeners and minimal time… what more could you ask for?
For damaged blades…like with a chip in it… I use one of the diamonds coated sharpeners from the “Smith’s® Diamond Field Sharpening Kit” It removes metal really fast!
With a sharpening system, it is probably easier for a beginner to keep a constant angle.
With a stone, you need some times to “learn” how to sharpen a very round tip, like on the SRM763, without loosing a constant angle.
For those of you in the good ol’ USA and have a Bass Pro Shop near by, they carry the Work Sharp.
There are two on the shelf here in Broken Arrow, OK. $79.99 plus tax.