ALIVE: Haikelite MT07S only US$46.72

This is a common problem I’ve discovered. You can “reset” this fault by physically removing the battery tube from the head (not just loosening 90 degrees) for a second or so, and tightening again. The light will turn solid blue again. However, after fondling with output the battery indicator will start blinking again as if battery voltage is below something like 3.7V (~50% capacity).
You can see this problem in this video here as well:

[video:]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56MWRHYo_2g[/video]

- batteries inserted at 6 min. 45 sec.

- switch on at 7 min. 16 sec. ==> solid blue light

  • mode switching at 7 min.43 sec., and at the 8 minute mark he finishes cycling modes and the button isn’t solid blue anymore.

Exact same issue with the SC26 (original version) in this video:

[video:]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbZHhvKlkW0[/video]

I’ve done two driver swaps for the MT07S, and the problem is still present unfortunately.

Thank you very much hIKARInoob! It worked! :+1:

Cheers man. I’m afraid there doesn’t seem to be a permanent fix to this problem, and it’s a software bug or something.

Now, I need to figure out what this rattling is about. Without the battery tube the head still rattles as if there is something loose inside, maybe the MCPCB or maybe the glas lens.

Update: It’s not the glas lens. I pushed my fingers against it when I shook the flashlight’s head.

I have 2 versions of the mt07s. one that has the blinking switch light bug and one that doesn’t. is there a way to turn off the indicator light when on? it doesn’t make sense that the switch light comes on when the light is on. I already know the light is on, I don’t need the switch to tell me it’s on.

^

Tell me about it. It seems most lighted side switches do that. I want a light I can find in the dark.

I've been wanting to probe the MT07S driver for a spot that feeds the power to MCU (should be under 5V). Then just connect one of the switches blue LED to it. May need a resistor if to bright. The LED would always be on and the red LED for low voltage should still function.

Or, you can just use a very high value resistor directly off the 16.8v from the battery pack. Probably would start with 100,000 ohm at least. Recommend you use a test LED that you wouldn't mind frying first.