A couple of cheap knives, The fixed blade was £4.99 and the folder was £5.99
John.
Got to use my Mora Robust while camping up in Scotland over the weekend. Admittedly I wasn’t exactly gentle with it (it’s the “robust” model, I thought it could take it!), but the factory edge chipped like crazy.
I’ve ground the chips out (that took a while) and given it a 15° secondary bevel, so hopefully it’ll take more abuse next time 
All Mora`s already have an 20-22 degree secondary micro-bevel according to Mora, 15 degrees will will be easier to damage than the one from the factory.
I have seen a lot of YouTube video on the Mora Robust and it`s described as being virtually indestructible, It`s 3.2mm of carbon-steel, What have you been doing?
I have a few Mora`s myself, 2x Mora force and 1x Mora Pro-C and 1x Mora Pro-S
John.
It seems it’s easier to roll an edge on scandi ground knives, compared to a convex edge.
I noticed it on my Hultafors GK when chopping, and I was quite surprised the first time.
For sharpening I use :
- Lansky Crock Stick Turnbox : cheap, very easy to get an edge on pocket knives or small fixed blades with minimal effort
- Lansky Blade Medic : great for correcting edge rolls or chips
- Also have a Fallkniven DC4, so far I haven’t used much
For sharpening, I just use the same pull-type coarse/fine doodad as I use on my kitchen cutlery (Wüsthof and Henckels).
Okay, go’head and laff and/or facepalm, but is there anything wrong with that?
I don’t abuse my blades, so I rarely if ever have to use the coarse side and usually just have to touch-up the edge with the fine side.
My only concern is that the small area would eventually wear down and not be The Perfect Angle anymore.
Hacking twigs and small branches off pine branches, probably using more force than I should have been, but I certainly didn’t think I was hitting anything hard enough to take out chunks of steel.
I’ve seen various posts on whether there is/isn’t a micro bevel on the Mora knives, where did you see confirmation that it was 20°? Is that 20° total or 20° each side?
I am a bit of a Mora fan, So when i got my sharpening system i searched for what angle Mora used on it`s standard knives, and it`s between 20-22 degrees, Kitchen knives are normally set to 10-15 degrees, hunting knives 20-22 degrees.
Mora have said every knife has an micro-bevel it may be very small but it will be there, do a google search it should be easy to verify.
Very surprised that hacking wood would damage the blade edge, it normally takes hitting metal or hard bone to either chip or deform the edge.
John.
I have a load of pull sharpeners myself, it depends on how hard the steel the knife is made from, most have a carbide cutter and you can rip the carbide particles out of the blade edge, as they have the same hardness, soft steel knives can be sharpened with carbide, Just use a light touch.
For hard steel you need a diamond or ceramic cutter so that the carbide partials in the steel can be cut instead of being pulled out.
If you have a chip in the edge of your knife you need to grind the edge away the edge till you remove the chip, you need a shaping stone as a pull sharpener will catch on the chipped area and can cause more damage.
John.
That’s what I thought.
I’ll see how it fares on its next outing, I’ll have a stainless Companion as a backup, so it’s not a major problem if it fails.
Have a look at the link below, In the first photo you can see the carbide particles in the edge of the knife blade, carbide particles help you blade edge stay sharper for longer as they are hard to wear away.
But if you use a pull knife sharper with a carbide cutter you will rip out the carbide particles as both are the same hardness, you have to cut the carbide particles with a diamond sharpener or a ceramic one but be careful as a diamond sharper can remove a lot of steel really fast.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/carbides-on-cutting-edge.1509442/
John.
I was surprised as the Robust can take a lot of abuse, see youtube video in the link below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKlcBpKbAvM
John.
That poor knife!
I try to never abuse my blades. 
As for sharpening, I always use a light touch, even if I have to do more of them. I practically just let gravity do the work by resting the blade in the sharpener and then giving it a drag to the tip. It makes no sense to me to have to push down on the blade anyway, so…
I imagine most “budget” knives like Sanremu, Ganzo, Harnds, Enlan, etc., won’t have embedded diamond grit or anything fancy in the medium, so I figure I’m safe using a pull-sharpener.
Was looking at “real” sharpening stones like DMT, etc. I have a few whetstones and such, mostly for tools (chisels, etc.), but haven’t used them on blades because I’m always tending to lower the angle to get a razor edge. It’s hard for me to keep a 15° angle when the tendency is to go lower… and lower… and lower…
At least a pull-sharpener keeps the same angle rather consistently.
If you are going to start sharpening your own knives, get a 8" double sided whetstone with a grit of 400/1000 , If you want a mirror edge you need 3000 grit+
But a rough edge can last longer than a mirrow edge depending on what you are cutting.
I got an 6" 600/1200 diamond stone for under £10 from aliexpress they don't wear out in the centre like a stone will, but they do seem a bit rough when you start using them but they soon smooth out.
You can get guide clips that attach to your knife for $10-15 that help you to keep your sharpening angle.
I live in the UK so i am limited to what knives i can carry, So my knives don't do anything to get blunt so i don't have that much sharpening experience but i have read a lot about sharpening knives and seen a million youtube video`s
John.
That sounds about right as for what I got now. Would have to check the box to see what grit it is on each side.
Knew it had a pic of a car2n bear on it, just goggled around, and this looks like it!
I like Amazon as i can check the reviews they help weed out the crap, I have an 400/1000 in my wishlist at around £13, It`s not easy to sharpen by hand that`s why i bought they the Edge Pro clone, you just set the blade angle you want.
I bought mine for around £15 but the included stones are really bad, but the sharpener is good enough, I just ordered an diamond stone, you can get a 3 set for around $10
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrIFc4UCLDg
John.
I learned this the hard way. Did a lot of damage to an expensive Henckel santoku with a pull type sharpener.
Bahco 2449 Wrecking Knife made from SK5 steel, You can hit it with a hammer, It might last a bit longer than the Mora Robust. :) and it`s cheap.
John.
EDIT: Replaced Video
over the years i have spent a lot of money on sharpening stones, sharp maker, various diamond grit stones and i am terrible at sharpening knives. I then saw a you tube video of a name brand knife maker who used a harbor freight $50 2” belt sander with belts ranging from 85grit to 2000 grit plus a leather stropping belt. wow! super fast, super sharp, do not believe those that tell you you will ruin the temper, just take care and it will not happen. I now sharpen all my kitchen knives, fixed blades, jack knives as appropriate along with neighbors, and relatives knives. since i was losing all my arm hair and running out of printer paper to cut with the knives to test their sharpness, i now just sharpen them and carefully test them with my thumb. before making any judgements please do a search on the internet for you tube videos. if you have the patience and skill for it by all means use the stones. i have just purchased some global knives and most likely will NOT use it on them. YMMV
Spyderco Sharpmaker, although it does take a little more practice (for me, anyway) than some say.