I made a firmware for the NANJG drivers suitable for lights like this and I sell those drivers. However no one has yet modded a NANJG into that light. I won't find time in the next days either :/
I'll put mine back together only to see if a NANJG driver will fit. I'll let you know later today.
Alright, assembled with a 8 x 7135 driver, and my AW 18650 battery sticks out of the tail end about .5mm when compressed. So it will work, it will just require that the spring on the driver be removed and replaced with a brass spacer or a bead of solder that's shorter than the compressed spring, and/or you add a ring spacer or bead of solder to the ring in the tailcap that contacts the body.
Pictures? Buy a driver programmed for this from you? Send you a 3 amp 8x7135? lol
If I can get this done and work right, I wouldn't mind selling these. However, that would eat into DrJones business (as he already has working code and can send you a driver). The only thing extra I would be doing is installing the switch in the T50, of which I would need to price out to make it worth my while.
So in other words, let's see if I can get this thing working first ;) Then I can start playing around with different UI options.
I have been attempting to get the pill out of mine with no luck so far. How did you break it loose? Also, how did you remove the black plastic centering disc from around the LED, I have not had any luck with that either. I just want to get the LED changed to the NW 3C I have sitting around, lol.
I removed the black plastic thing just from prying it out with a little pick. As for the pill, you mean remove it from the head? It's glued at the switch, so you just have to pry the pill away from the switch and push it up and out of the head.
Well, my light is done. Never doing this mod again, as I suck when it comes to tiny, delicate work like this. I made the mistake of putting 22 awg silicone wire in for the connection from the LED to the driver, but now the black disc doesn't fully seat on the LED (which means the reflector doesn't screw fully on). I needed to replace the wire because it was too short after removing the stock driver. And while having to use a lot of heat to get the solder flowing on the LED pads, I warped the emitter dome with heat - so the beam is pretty bad.
I reused the tiny wire that was connected to the LED to lengthen the switch wires. I used tiny pieces of shrink wrap, and it actually worked. The wire was soldered right to the pin on the microcontroller, so it might not hold up to abuse.
I know, I know - no pictures. I'm just not in the mood to take pictures of something that didn't turn out the way I wanted it to. If I were to do it again, I would source some 24-26 awg wire (couldn't find anything smaller than 22).
As for the UI:
Press the button to turn it on. Press again to turn off.
When on, hold down and it will ramp up (unless at max already). Once it hits max it will stop. Hold again and it will ramp down. Once it hits moonlight, it will stop. Whever you stop, that mode is saved for the next time you turn it out.
Double press when on to switch to next higher mode (5% - 30% - 100%). Can always do ramping from there.
Didn't implement a strobe mode.
Your UI sounds sweet, why can't they put that in stock, lol. I guess I will have to continue to work at the pill and the black plastic disc, still no luck, but haven't tried super hard, not wanting to break things.
Ok, I took mine apart as well, my advice for other modders, DO NOT TAKE THIS FLASHLIGHT APART!!! I broke mine, and even with extreme amounts of for, prying and work the LED star is glued solid to the pill. Will probably order another one of these and leave it alone.
Ok, I take that back, I may be able to salvage the light after all. Will see what happens and update everyone as the process goes on.
Well on second notice, the light is working really well. I accidentally left the tailcap tightened for a good week, and it didn't show any signs of the battery being drained. The switch is a problem though. I need to press it quite hard to activate it and keep it activated. It would be nice to try to get in there and replace it. This only causes an issue with ramping, as just turning off them back on quickly goes to the next higher mode - so I hardly ever would need to use the ramping. I'm impressed with this thing.
Sorry for bumping this thread, but is it easy to switch the reflector without harming anything else (i.e switch, threads, led)? And if so, are there any OP reflectors out there?
The T50 is in my cart, omw to check out.
It’s easy to get to and change out but I don’t know of any reflectors that would fit. It’s not a standard size which is the whole point of the P60.
It’s easy to diffuse however.
Anyone who’s got the measurements of the reflector?