And its a good light otherwise (except for the missing mode problem)
4AA is a neglected form factor in flashlights 
There are plenty of 4AA flashlights available:
Sunwayman M40A, D40A and F40A
Nitecore EA4 and EA41
Jetbeam SRA40 and PA40
Fenix E41 and LD41
Lumintop SD10 BLF
Trustfire TR-A9
Ultrafire SH-A4
Then there are the 3AA lights like:
Blackshadow Darth and Rook
Eagletac GX25A3
Lumintop SD10
This is a short list, and most have low max outputs (or the switch has to be held down for burst mode) or a very high price, compare to the hundreds if not thousands of 18650 models, which are cheaper, have simple to replace drivers and much higher outputs. For $25 i would like a good quality (Convoy level) host with 4AA 3A output XM-L2 (or XP-L2) with a 17mm replaceable driver (105C would be nice) that has anodized threads, a fairly throwy reflector (a C8 would be amazing but not necessary), integrated or aluminum pill and good modes.
In 18650 i can get hundreds of lights for less then this price
3AA won’t get above 2A on an XM-L with a linear driver due to voltage sag.
I agree that there are a lot more 18650 lights to choose from but I wouldn’t say that 4AA is a neglected form factor. Why not spend a little more on a quality 4AA light (D40A or EA41) with close enough to 1000 lumens instead of buying multiple cheap lights that either need modding or have built in design problems or both. These two lights are well built lights that put out plenty of light and have great modes, I really don’t think you could build a better light for less.
Let me rephrase, relatively neglected, a dozen or so 4AA and thousands of 18650s available.
I can’t build an 18650 for less money then a Convoy M1 either, i have no aluminum casting or bar stock available, i have no anodizing capability so even though i can buy the LED, switch, driver, glass, switch boot and reflector, it would cost me a damn hell lot of money to make a $10 host.
When I said “build” I didn’t mean from scratch! I was referring to the cost of upgrading a decent host to the level of performance and refinement of the D40A or EA41.
Are there hosts that take 4AA and are better quality then the starry light at a similar or lower price point that are modifiable?
That was the point I was trying to make, try and find a decent host that holds 4AA and a driver with great modes and good output from 4AA would be very difficult to do for any price let alone the price that the ready built lights can be purchased at. Especially if you get in on a group buy or good sale, I paid $27 for my EA4W. Sure the EA4 has it faults but is arguably a better light than the starry for not much more. The EA41 and D40A can be had for around $50, about twice the price of the SA-22 but they are brighter, better UI and they don’t strip threads.
I have tried to find one and have not had much success, the EA4 has poor heatsinking, but $27 is the best price i have heard of, is it still available?
A 4AA light would not be much more expensive to produce then a 18650 or 26650 light but its not a form factor manufacturers are interested in, 18650 is todays fad
The EA4W is sold out and the offer NLA from where I got it. Any light powered by lithium ion will always be cheaper as it is much cheaper and easier to design a driver to suit. It’s the same deal with single AA, well driven lights are hard to find and the only ones available are higher priced premium brands, the budget brands don’t seem capable of building drivers that give high output from AA batteries.
4AA will work with the same 105C driver as a 18650, i believe old lumens has done it many times
Cleaned and tefloned it, i think it will need new teflon every few charges but lets see what happens over the next week or two.
So far so good
It seems new teflon is needed every 3-4 recharges and its easier to cross thread the light now which is a concern, so i think this has given the light some extra life but it may actually hasten its demise.
Threads on mine will tighten only slightly, if I try to apply slightly more force to tight the head as it should, the threads give out and the head will skip over the threads and I will have to tighten it again, ie cross threading?