Great review, after reading about the output exceeding the factory specs and the long run time, I caved and ordered it.
Please update us if and when you get the head apart.
Thanks!
Keith
to get 700 OTF lumens from a XP-G2 you need to run it close to 3A with a DTP star
so something is wrong with the runtime and lumens
Just received it (gotta love Amazon’s speed) and want to add 2 observations.
First;
When operating let’s say in the 3rd mode, if you let it on that mode for over 5 seconds, your next click returns it back to low.
This is nice in that you do not have to cycle through high and strobe to get to low.
However, you now must climb the ladder again from low to get to high. Kinda strange deal but not a deal breaker for me.
Second;
This light will tailstand when on but is all kind of wobbly when off. Again no big deal because if you are tailstanding it you are probably doing so that light can be projected up without holding it. This could probably be corrected by trimming the nub slightly on the tail button.
Really nice quality construction, can’t find a flaw. Glass has nice coating and reflector is pristine.
Put in a protected Thorfire/Panasonic in it and it took it without an issue. They are a very long battery so it is a good test.
Looking forward to testing it outdoors this evening.
As said by the OP, this flashlight is a whole lot of value for $20, get em while you can!
Later,
Keith
That’s actually a characteristic and constant flaw I’ve seen with Thrunite torches. I’ve had a TN12 2014 and an Archer 2A v2 that couldn’t tailstand for the world, and now a T10 that wobbles a mite no matter if on or off (but tailstanding is definitely possible with a little care when placing it down). The replacement I got for the first TN12 does tailstand stably in both states, though.
Bc412 - Have you tried to disassemble the head yet? I want to change the LED, but it doesn’t look like there’s a way to unscrew the head and expose the LED, or else the seam is very well hidden.
If I have to get to the LED from the driver end, I’m also stuck - I can’t remove the driver. There’s no retaining ring to hold the driver down, so maybe it’s glued in. The only thing I removed was the little insulator thing around the driver spring.
Any ideas? I don’t have a lot of tools to work with, but I’ll try anything I can with what I have.
The light does have a serious step down at ~3min though. So isn’t 700L OTF possible for a short run?
700lm OTF - let’s call it 800 at the emitter, from an XP-G2 R5 takes 4.5A drive current and about 3.75V to the emitter. An NCR18650B[1] might stay over that voltage long enough to be producing 700lm at 30 seconds.
This light is pretty clearly direct-drive given how the runtime graph continues a steady slope downward after the stepdown. A swap to an XP-L or XM-L2 should make its performance identical to the A1S. A swap to a Nichia 219C should make it get hot quickly.
Edit: Djozz was simulating OTF lumens with a reflector and AR lens in the test I linked, so we need 700 on the dot, not 800, which took 3.6A. That’s pretty mild given that the light seems to be direct-drive.
[1] BLF objects to the format of the link: Test of Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh (Green)
I couldn’t tell if this had a bezel or not but after some fiddling with my strap wrenches it finally cracked open. The shiny gunk on the threads is glue
Red Loctite, I presume?
I don’t believe so. Might be green loctite.