the quark is talked about very favourably on one bag (http://www.onebag.com/packing-list-tools.html)
I didn't really look at it that much, maybe I should have.
I have the Maratac AA, its IMO a nicer alternative to the non-tailstandable nature of the ITP, but the lanyard ring of the Maratacs isnt as neat, so that was removed. Then again, I never actually keychain my torches, let alone actually have a keychain! The thought of scratching doesnt work for me.
I do feel that the 4sevens Quark AA Mini is a better torch than the ITP and Maratacs. It looks better IMO, has a rougher knurling on the head, where its needed (the maratac has finer knurling at the head?!) It has 3 modes too, but they are better spaced, with a lower low. And the beacon mode I actualy like, but its nicely out of the way. Just dont get the Ti if your not a fan of scratches, it a beautiful material until you actually use it.
Thats just my 2 cents about the twisty AAs anway. Im not familiar with fenix, (dont have any) but it sounds like a good choice anyway!
They have the same modes-just that 4Sevens sells enough to have it tested ANSI, which costs a couple hundred, maybe more money. I agree, the mini is designed better, but at the price premium.
Congrats, on the LD20. I purchased one about 6 months ago. It's an excellent torch, very rugged. I love the 4 brightness levels. Something that's very important on an AA torch I feel due to the extreme quality variances out there available in AA's. I figured if I have to run it on dubious quality AA's from some rural corner store, I can minimize the risks of leaks, as well as nurse more time out of the battery.
The only thing you'll want to check, and re-check every so often, is the tail switch. Make sure the ring that retains the switch inside the tail cap stays tight. It's a reverse thread so turn it counterclockwise to tighten it. Sometimes it can loose up and you'll be scratching your head trying to figure out what's not working.
Great forum's BTW. Just found this place!
Aloha and welcome to BLF pinetree89!
You will be doing better than most of us then :)
Welcome to BLF pinetree89!
Good to have you here.
Hello folks,
I'm interested in purchasing my first decent led flashlight and I've been toying around with the following:
(1) Jetbeam BA20 XP-G R5
(2) ITP SA2 XP-G R5
(3) ITP A2 EOS [low-med-high] Is 1.5 lumens enough for a nice little reading light? Also can you instantly select each mode, or do you have to switch through from high to low? Perhaps it's not as comfortable in your hand, walking around than a full size 2 AA light?
It seems overwhelming with the number of options, eagletec, onilight, fenix etc....
What about Solarforce products, I think there's one with 3 modes, with XP-G R5 for ~$22.00. Although, the head on that looks like it could poke holes in your pocket.
I'd like to stay with AA size, since I have more than enough rechargeable eneloop AA's to go around.
Anyone care to comment on either or both of these? I like the Jetbeam for it's waterproof and higher lumen output. Although I like the ITP for it's fairly low, low and it's digital ramping light output...pretty cool. I'm more interested in flood versus throw; as long as I can see a reasonable distance in front of me, I know I won't trip over anything. Price of (1) and (2) ~ $40, (3) ~25.
Marc
Hi Marc, good to have you here.
I hope you have as much fun as we do here.
I can't say anything about the Jetbeam as I've never owned a Jetbeam light.
I like ITP lights.
As to whether 1.5 lumens is adequate for reading, it very much depends on your eyesight. Until I was about 45 it would have been - now I need 9-10 lumens for reading in total darkness. I'd strongly recommend a headband for holding the light for reading - KD will sell you one for $3.49. You don't want to have to hold a light with one hand and the book with another - that has never worked for me.
Solarforces are nice but probably not best suited for your needs. You'd certainly need to replace those annoying spiky bezel rings or do a Foy on them - search around here for Foybezel or Foyzel. Not many of us can do it as nicely as he does. I know I can't. The solarforce L2r (Which takes 2 AAs) and a better bezel ring and a suitable low-voltage dropin might work for you but I find the low voltage dropin I have actually works far, far better at 4.2V than the 2.8 or so you get from a pair of freshly charged Eneloops.
For reading, if that's how you use it, you might want to consider a zoom light. No hotspot.
Welcome to BLF Marc :)
Aloha and welcome to BLF Marc999!
Thanks for the warm welcomes :)
Regarding ITP flashlights, ITP SA2 XP-G R5, anybody know if it's waterproof?
In otherwords, if it's pouring rain outside and I'm wandering my way back to my campsite, will the flashlight be ok?
Jetbeam claims theirs are waterproof, whereas ITP water resistant, yet just wanted to double check with you guys. I do favour the ITP over the Jetbeam for the funky light ramping output.
Marc
Most lights will survive even the heaviest rain. Even an Orb Raw which has no environmental sealing at all. But has almost nothing to go wrong inside if it does get soaked.
Unless you intend to immerse the light (Which I routinely do in testing) you shouldn't have to worry about waterproofing.
Thanks for the reply Don, that's reassuring to know.
That brings me to the final question: would I be able to tell the difference between 230 lumens [ITP SA2] versus 270 lumens [Jetbeam BA20].
Products are the same price, this is the only remaining factor to consider.
Note: I've also decided upon an ITP A3 EOS XP-G R5, or XP-E Q5 and save a few bucks. 80 verus 96 lumens, on high.
cheers,
Marc
There are 3 things that affect how our eyes determine brightness:
- Lumens
- Tint
- Beam pattern
Going off lumens alone is tricky, because a light with a reflector designed more for throw will appear brighter to most folks as compared to one that is floody. Tint is a wildcard. I'd say most people would say that a cool white beam would appear brighter, but then there are those who say it makes everything look washed out and therefore prefer neutral white or warm for better colors and realism.
I can't give you an answer on the SA2 vs the BA20, I've no experience with those two. But seeing as how it's 230 vs 270, I'd say there's a good chance you'd only tell if they were side by side.
As far as the A3, presuming you're running it off of alks and not a 10440, most will think the Q5 looks brighter, even though the xp-g would give off more lumens. I'd still be a small difference though...Can't go wrong with either really.
The Q5 itp has horrible PWM and I hate it with a passion .. the new one is supposed to be fixed .. the old one is so bad i want to puke and won't use the light ..
Don't say you can't go wrong with either the Q5 or the xpg ...to me there is a huge difference .
The easy answer is NO ...you can't tell the difference in 12% more lumens all things being equal . 230/270 same ,same ,same.
I think match is right the Q5 probably looks brighter it's that hotter spot .
Even if it didn't have ugly horrible pwm.. I still don't like the light ..If you buy one ...buy the new one with the xpg .
I like the tank 703 much better .
Thanks Boaz, I was unaware of the pwm of the ITP. I'll focus on the R5 version.
The new budget jetbeam 'back-up' series is a great option too. The BA20 is the most efficient 2x AA light in the world bar the thrunite neutron 2a which uses an XM-L so is a very floody beam and has a worse ui in my opinion. It's also incredibly tough for what it is too, and all for under $40.
The Fenix E21 should be good too, but I would say the BA20 is the best value 2x AA light ever made by anyone so far.
The Q5 version of the A2 has very high PWM frequency, it's just the oldest A3 that has lower PWM (but lots of people, like me, aren't disturbed by it).