That was the big expense for me! Especially since I first purchased some “Mechanic’s Soldering Paste” in the little jar like what RMM & the Chinese sellers have. I couldn’t get that to do what I wanted, so I ended up ordering some Kester EP256 in a syringe from CML Supply. I purchase through eBay where they don’t seem to stock it anymore, but this is what I got. I used it for the first time last night and was pretty happy w/ the results.
I got my boards. Anyone build these up yet?
I'm still waiting for boards and chips. My panels are still in production.
This is what I bought and use: http://www.kd5ssj.com/solderpaste. Highly recommend the 21 Ga needle. I use the 23, and it's a pain. It's a small amount but you don't need much. By the time you use it up, it will probably be expired. Recommended by a friend - this guy is a hobbyist - may take a few days to get it shipped, depending... I bought mine in Sep 2013 and probably half left, though I've used it a lot more lately with the OSHPark boards.
I get $3.55 shipping, total of $9.55 for 1 paste syringe, 1 21 Ga needle.
You think it might be worth getting stencils made? It shouldn't be a big deal for this driver, but with the Meld drivers I think I'd going to want all the help I can get.
corrected OP w/ correct OSHPark link and images
Thanx!!
So I have got one of these puppies piggybacked to courui amd Richard put it together with electronic switch filmware so I solder one side of switch to pad 2 and the other to pad - ? I am only getting light if I press and hold e switch no modes ? What’s wrong?
Not sure whether pin 2 or pin 3 that is the button for momentary firmware?
Checking
I can be either pin 2 or pin 3…do you know what firmware RMM put on the driver for you?
I’m assuming just the standard raw itch filmware.
ask him…verify to be sure
double check your connections
on a momentary it should work, unless something is shorted
Other side of e-switch goes to ground.
can someone show me a pic of this driver set up with e switch?
Sorry, no pic but if you refer to the op the numbers there refer to the “stars” that are on the 105C this circuit was initially borrowed from, they do not represent the PIN numbers. Pin 1 is by the asterisk, pin 2 has the off time cap pads and the number 4, pin 3 is star 3, pin 4 is mcu gnd, pin 5 is star 2, pin 6 is pwm out, pin 7 is voltage divider, and pin 8 is mcu power.
Note- this layout has the voltage divider located after D1 so a Zener mod for an MT-G2 or XPH 6V led would disable low voltage detection. To retain that feature cut the trace between D1 and R1 @ R1 and reconnect R1 to B+(big round spring pad) with a jumper and increase the value of R1 from 19.7k to 48k ohms.