I haven’t received an invite yet and I’m in the 900s and people above me are getting their lanterns already?
it looks like people way after me are are already receiving their lanterns. Been waiting years lol ;(
Apparently a number of batch 1 LTs were incorrectly soldered with 6&7 being bridged. They manually opened them but unless they confirmed that with a DMM it’s certainly possible that they are stilled bridged (the remaining solder on the pads making it impossible to visually confirm, at least on yours and mine).
Mine is the same but not as bad. I can easily close it on the side with the Hot image but it takes a little more pressure to close it on the other side. Squeezing it slightly with a vise grip would likely fix it. Though one has to be carefully with vise grips; I once tried to fix a SIG mag that way and ended up making it worse 
Maybe I get to include this information into the manual (not knowing yet where to find any room for it except for adding another page to the manual). Anyway, I hope this information is easy to understand.
I like this.
I feel like I should have asked this earlier — what is the purpose / meaning of the arrow from C-C to C-A-C?
It’s simple but your understanding is incorrect.
PD has nothing to do with the issue, nor any proprietary fast charging regimes.
Every single type C charger that is correctly made by any manufacturer will not charge the LT1 without taking additional steps.
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Where have you got that figure? Maximum power draw is potentially over double that.
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It’s hardly the end of the world but it’s a valuable lesson to learn going forward. The project has been a great success and the work put in by the team is appreciated by everyone here I’m sure, but to not recognise and learn from mistakes is foolish in the extreme.
Ive seen no criticism but maybe a little (unjustified) dented pride causing defensive stances?
Thanks! Just patiently waiting for my combo now lol…I’m excited to see all the positive reception so far.
am I missing something? is everyone got an invite but me? I was in line for two and I haven’t got any invites
Only 500 were released. What number(s) are you on the list? If you’re past 600 or so, you wouldn’t have received your PM yet.
The charging circuit in the LT1 was intentionally designed to have two possible charge rates. 0.75A, and 1.5A. The intent is for it to charge from whatever source you have, from low power intermittent solar to a wall wart charger, and to maximize the longevity of the overall system. Allowing it to charge at too high a rate is bad when there is no way for the charge circuit to tell if you have 4 30Q batteries installed, or a single low current cell.
Back to the design philosophy… While it might be the spiffiest lantern around, at it’s root, this is designed to be a survival lantern. If you’ve just gone through a natural disaster and all you have is one questionable battery, do you want to risk your lantern cooking it to death?
how come peoe are in the 1200s getting it?
Yep, it comes with a cable. (A to C)
good idea to add :+1:
I would try it myself, (using wire-lead 1/8 watt 5100 ohm resistors,) but i don’t have a USBC charger or C-to-C cord with any of my other devices to test it on. :partying_face:
Too bad there is this fundamental flaw with the charging. It’s crazy how almost no one can implement USB C charging properly.
Personally I stopped buying anything with microUSB over a year ago and can’t see a reason to as microUSB cables, connectors are much less durable. Not using miniUSB either, for exactly same reason.
And I have plenty of USB-C laptop power bricks, but no lantern.
And no proper solder station, but I know I can fix that :+1:
So far, this ‘challenge’ spans manufacturers from Astrolux to Olight. (Does anyone have a USB-C charging Zebralight and a proper USB-C power source? Please test and report your results HERE )
I think, at it’s root, people putting these together start out thinking it’s a straight 1 for 1 swap.
Du hast massenhaft Platz:
(entschuldige bitte den rauen Ton, keine Zeit)
- Die Credits am Schluss.
Schreib das als einzigen Satz mit:
DBSAR = Originalkonzept, Design, Prototypen, Feldtests, ToyKeeper (das K groß) = Firmware & Softwareentwicklung, Lexcel = …
Designzuarbeiten rausschmeißen, aber bei Phlog. lassen.
- Ich hab in der Anleitung viel Unwichtiges drin was man bei Platzproblemen löschen kann
- bei den Links ab YouTube Video: Löschen
- Bei Verwendung den Absatz mit “Weiterhin können Sie …” löschen
- Hersteller ersetzen mit Hergestellt in China. Das dafür unten streichen
- wenn Du zusätzlich an der Formatierung für die Abstände der Absätze zueinander drehst hast Du 1,5 Spalten Luft
- auf zwei Spalten kommst Du wenn Du die erste Spalte vom Logo bis zum Produktbild auf die halbe Höhe bringst. Darunter würde ich die Credits vom Ende verschieben.
- Was noch fehlt sind CE Zeichen Rohs recycle und der Abfalleimer. Die sollten soviel ich weiß in die Anleitung. Manchmal beschwert sich der Zoll. YMMV
- die Zeile
“Damage by battery leakage voids warrenty”
“ Schäden durch …”
würd ich löschen. Das sind 18650er keine AAs
- Was fehlt ist Text zum Reset, Beschreibung des Potis und der Lötbrücken. Hat die Lampe das programmable power on level? Momentary Strobe Modes?
Aber ich würde eher noch ein A4 Blatt als Technical Note nachschieben für den ganzen Klimbim der fehlt.
- Bei den max 600lm weiß ich nicht ob die passen. Djozz kommt auf weniger CW 550, WW 450. Würde mir als Käufer weniger gefallen. 500 lm fände ich passend
- druckt Sofirn die Anleitung in Farbe? Und in welcher Größe?
Joe
I find it sorta funny that in all this discussion about the USB-C port incompatibilty with a few cords that there has been no mention of the iPhone users who have lightning cords. So there’s a whole bunch of people who need extra cords anyhow.
So there’s extra connectors in a USB C cable which won’t let it charge? Is there a know reason for this and can it be fixed?