*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

:smiley: :+1:

Thanks DBSAR for generating these videos. A great job of explaining ways around the LT1 Anduril.

Iā€™ll comment on the momentary mode. As you mentioned, the only way out of momentary is a hard lock out. In this post, mentions that,

So it seems intentional that a hard lockout is required to leave momentary mode. Iā€™m not sure if she was saving 5 clicks from that mode for something else, or the nature of the FW and chip required it, or ? But for now it is what it is.

On final minor comment, you mentioned that for ramped mode the lowest low is lower than for stepped mode. Definitely true. However, the ends of the ramp for both modes, as well as the number of steps are programmable. 4 clicks in stepped mode, and you can program (or not change) the settings for bottom of ramp, top of ramp, and number of steps. To get the bottom of the ramp in stepped mode down to level 1 (and as low as it is in the default ramp), do the following:

Put LT1 in stepped mode if not there already
click 4 times
while output is flickering (after one flash), just click 1 time. If you wanted level 20 instead of level 10 for the bottom of the ramp, click 20 times.

If you donā€™t want to change anything else about stepped mode, just watch the LT1 eventually flash twice, then buzz for a bit, then flash 3 times, then buzz for a bit, and eventually return to the setting where it was before you entered programming by clicking 4 times.

Iā€™ll skip talking about how to change the top of ramp setting, other than to say to you are counting down from level 151 to where you want to establish the setting.

To change the number of steps, during the flickering after 3 flashes, click for the number of steps you want. I changes mine to 8 levels instead of the default 5. So 8 clicks, they donā€™t have to be super fast, as long as you continue to press the switch the LT1 will continue to listen for additional clicks for about 5 seconds.

A video would be better I suppose, but my internet prohibits me from uploading something of a the length required to explain this via video.

Hope this helps, and again great job on all the features of the LT1 that you covered, it will help a lot of folks not familiar with Anduril. :+1: :beer:

Do you think itā€™s possible to just twist and pull the trim pot off with small pliers or is it held in too tight to remove it that way?

This is the legacy of momentary mode as used on flashlights that are easily locked out and reset. No one wants to ā€œaccidentallyā€ escape from momentary mode when the whole purpose of that mode is to allow repeated button presses, whether those presses occur coincidentally or when sending Morse code, in which case your rescuers had better be octogenarian HAM operators.

The power reset may be less convenient on a lantern, but I would argue that itā€™s required to allow a proper momentary mode. Speaking for myself, if a light left momentary mode because I clicked the button 5 times in a row, Iā€™d throw it against a rock and curse itā€™s UI designer :wink: . I may never actually use momentary mode on the LT1, but Iā€™d want it to work properly if I did.

Thanks for the explanation, it took til now but I learned something new today. :sunglasses:

Hmm, I would have to be really good with some very abrupt pliers for that to work I think. If I was going to try to twist it off, I would probably select tweezers over pliers. I just donā€™t think I could get a good grip on the part as it sits on the board with any pliers I have. The flat blade screwdriver I used was one from a set of small flat and phillips screwdrivers I got at harbor freight or equivalent. I think an eyeglass screwdriver would likely work just as well if you had one.

I do think just attempting to lift it off would work. My assumption is the worst I would do would be to lift a pad off the PWB, but since I donā€™t need that part on there I wasnā€™t worried about doing that. It seemed like on mine only two of the three trim pot legs were soldered, and my method broke part of the trim pot pad off at the leg nearest where the LED would go if it was installed.

Upon further inspection, I see I did pull off one of the pads from the board. The one I thought was not soldered. :person_facepalming:

Oh well, my LT1 still has full functionality.

I have needle nose pliers that are small enough as well as eyeglass screwdrivers but potentially pulling off pads concerns me :frowning:

Since my testing didnā€™t indicate any problems with flat top batteries (at least the ones I have) I think Iā€™ll leave the trim pot as is on the LT that I have :slight_smile:

Thanks!

seems like a good plan, leave well enough alone.

Also, just a quick note in case it wasnā€™t mentionedā€¦the tops of the battery channels are rather sharp, they were NOT chamfered to allow ā€œspeedloadingā€ of the cells. Be careful if removing the cells to charge, or when reinserting the cells to operate.

DBSAR, I was noticing you have a blue rubber bumper on your LT1 in the videos above. Is this just a rubber band you had, or did you acquire it specifically to replace the orange one that came standard with the LT1?

Ok, I watched all three videos and learned the answer. Thanks for sharing!

Does it have thermal config the same the PL47G2? Doesnā€™t appear on the little cheat sheet, but it does briefly mention it in the manual

There is no thermal configuration for the LT. The batch 1manual is wrong in places and itā€™s better to use the cheat sheet. Batch 2 manuals are suppose to be updated with corrections as needed.

I just added some solder to the tops of some new flat top cells in anticipation of receiving a code and finding our that flat tops might not work so well. Seeing DBSAR's video made me think that adding the solder might help but I just wanted to know what tolerance I should be aiming for in overall battery length? I think they are all within .25mm in length but I can sand them if that isn't enough.

Would love a snow camo version of this lantern with blue and white trits.

Overall battery length isnā€™t a critical measurement, as the slack is taken up by the springs in the battery tube.
IMHO, Iā€™d focus more on a good contact patch on the top of your solder blobs.

LT1 manual

As sig said, no thermal configuration in the LT1, none is required, but you can learn about how the LT1 actually behaves reading this manual. The one included was not completed prior to printing off for the first 500 pieces. :blush:

could I possibly add 2 more lanterns in my order/reservation for the group buy?

Thnaks very much for the informative video on this, DBSAR. :+1: Iā€™m guessing thereā€™s no feasible way to force the trim pot lower on the PCBā€¦ so itā€™s more or less being aware of the issue & making sure not to use cells with thick wraps that may stick up enough to snag it.

UPDATE: Oct,22,2019 -The initial GroupBuy lot of the 3000 LT1 units Sofirm has alotted is now filled. We will update as Sofirn begins to fill the orders, and update if LT1ā€™s have not been claimed or Sofirn extends the GB list to open for any new interests.

Hopefully they re-open the GB listā€¦

good point, i never really thought of that until now.