Here's my ugly duckling 5015. Still need to put some proper feet and seal the openings that are not conducive to proper air flow. Just a gutted out PSU. Not sure I will ever try to pretty it up
Simple but effective. I considered much the same, I love the one I have built into an ATX power supply, nice and compact yet works great. It being self contained is great too.
I went with acrylic just because I have easy access to a laser cutter with which to cut it.
^
Oh, meant to also say thank you for alerting us to these DSP units. I quit working on drivers a long time ago because I couldn't test LVP's with my CSI3010. Now, I'm excited to get back to finishing several mods that got stuck at the driver stage.
Oh #2, Please check on my EDIT's to Post 160. If you or whopist ever get some unloaded A/C current draw numbers on your EPS-470's. I sure would like to hear what your units measure.
EDIT: Nice build LightRider. Looks good. Also looks like it will be easy to read at that angle and be above the debris on your work bench. I have case envy.
My experience with the cheap meanwell knock offs and the like is very good though.
I use them for Class-D amplifier boards, and they’re fast, silent and rock steady.
Sure, they may use cheaper parts than things like those Dell PSUs or genuine Meanwell, but they perform quite well.
Have you ever hooked them up to a scope? I hooked mine up and it had a VERY noticeable ripple voltage. After the DPS gets done with the signal though the signal was rock solid.
I am glad others are also finding these as useful as I am, I wonder how I lived without it before. Even testing random electronics around the house is great when you loose power bricks ect.
I really love using it to test flashlights after a fresh build. Since I can see the exact voltage and current draw I can tell is say all the 7135’s are working proerly at a glance instead of having to meter it out separately. Saves a lot of time and effort. Plus I can turn the max current down to 10ma so even if something is shorted it won’t hurt anything.
I will see if I get around to that anytime soon, most likely it will be when my new DPS unit arrives now that my 3012 sold.
Thanks! I think it will be quite useful. Especially what I hook up the four port USB power supply. I just got that in the mail yesterday. Unfortunately, the power meter display that I got for the USB output monitoring is not going to fit onto the front of my case. I will have to find one with a smaller display that can do up to 6-7amps or so.
Hey guys, what are your favourite terminals to use for the DC IN/OUT? I’m looking for something standard which is easy to solder to different wires depending on the use.
For the output from the DPS, banana jacks are the most common but they can have large voltage drops/resistance. They are fine for low current things and for special leads but for my main leads I prefer something more solid.
This time around I think I am going to go with a pair of banana jacks for random leads and then either hardwire my main leads directly into the DPS (custom made leads with 14 gauge silicone wire, maybe 12 this time around), or I will do what I did last time and use an XT60 connector like that used on RC batteries. It seemed to only add minute resistance to the system.
I decided to use 40amp powerpole connectors for high current output, banana jacks for volts in and banana jacks for a second volts out for test leads and such.
Don't order these particular jacks. The product description says gold plated copper, but they are stainless steel.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161742419407?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
The vendor has agreed to give me a full refund. I love the style because each jack can take 2 banana plugs and can also clamp on wires/flat connectors. If anyone comes across a good source for this type of connector in real copper or brass, please post it.
No… i used to have a HP scope, actually i do still have one, but it’s a Philips ‘museum piece’ with vacuum tubes (valves) form the late 60s or early 70s… :partying_face: It’s 0 - 1 MHz and with both original probes and banana adaptors.
Around the 20Khz or mains frequency (60Hz) ?
Okay, that’s cool.
You’re right, i should do a thorough test.
I tried some PSUs with a speaker (with a cap between it to cut the DC) and didn’t hear a thing.
Maybe i should try the old Philips again.
Last time i checked it still worked well.
It was around 60hz IIRC, been a few months.
Seeing that level of ripple go in and even worse from some wall warts I tried with it and a perfectly clean signal come out was what made me realize these were not your normal china power supplies and the reason I posted them here in the first place.
I second xt60. Deans are good too, and a few others in that general class. I'm not thrilled about pure banana jacks, but a true screw down binding post (I think the one's in 4wheelers pics are), now that's different. Works well with bananas, aligators, fork lugs if they're big enough, best though with bare wire though, which I can always accommodate. They are all purpose connectors. If you have different loads with different connectors you can make up some adapters from each to bare wire. Half the work of adpapting each to whatever else you choose, and works just as well or better for bench test work. And of course if you have something where you don't care about what connector it has, then you can just strip off the ends and you're set. Wire is the most universal connector.
Of course you can use a couple output connectors to meet your various needs, and if you don't have screw posts, you can still make an aligator adapter or even screw terminal adapter from whatever you do have. I just don't see the point. In the end a supply that can't connect to bare wire is useless to me and doing it with aligators just isn't ideal anyway and where did I put those clips?
Excuse me, do you need DTP MCPCB?
Ya… Then we could connect our leads straight to the dps5015 without a dialectric layer! I thing we would get much better efficiency that way. 
I
4wheeler wrote:
“EDIT2: Reassembled the EPS-470. It works fine still. It draws .25 amps at 122.6v A/C (.19 amps without the fans connected) with no load. It draws .29 amps A/C with a 12v, .42 amp load. I used a Kill A Watt meter to measure the A/C current usage.”
“Oh #2, Please check on my EDIT’s to Post 160. If you or whopist ever get some unloaded A/C current draw numbers on your EPS-470’s. I sure would like to hear what your units measure.”
Just checked my EPS-470 current draw with no output load. My cheap clamp meter said it was drawing 0.25 Amps. This reading was possible because I just added a line power on/off switch.
I like your binding post and sure glad it seems to work for you.
Thinking: those are pretty narrow slits though, they will clog with dust easily.
Never mind, it’ll probably be fine, i don’t mean to whine.
‘Speaker terminals’
These are very handy too, but not for high current:
