Mine is blueish, but on throw that doesn't mean much, as the projected LED image or color fringing prevail. Where you do notice the blueish tint, is on flood.
That will also depend on the particular emitter you happen to get.
It can be solved, if you want to reduce the 20mins. You have to search a capacitor on the driver which holds the voltage after you switch off the light. And you have to solder a resistor paralel with it (somewhere 10k-100kohm, it depends how much you want to reduce the time).
I don’t know what the minimum amount of time is after turning the light off for it to come back on in high mode but after reading this thread I turned it on and off and waited 5 minutes. It came back on in high mode.
So on mine it’s somewhere between 2-5 minutes.
All you need to do, is let it stay 3min (or more) on Off. That way it will always come back on in High and if you use it as a single-mode, High-only, flashlight (i.e. you do not attempt to change modes), you won't even know that other modes are available.
As I already mentioned, the Small Sun ZY-C10-S driver seems to be press-fit into the aluminium pill. By removing it, you may later run into contact reliability problems, as soldering isn't a straightforward option.
Trustfire X9 anyone? Just putting the idea out there, I know its XML but if you want throw and a good sized hotspot (~30 meters across 300m not some pencil thin beam). Downside of it is its size ~200mm long, ~1 inch body and ~60mm head.
Are you using a light meter? I don’t get that result at all. When the current spreader bars are visible I get the highest reading and as I defocus it I get lower readings (as would be expected).