I will make a video of the whole build process but there is a lot other work to do around the new house so Maybe it need a month or so to cut the videos I made.
I turned on the hot plate and put a big washer under the spacer for clear the bolt head and to slow down heat transfer to spacer. I used an infrared thermometer to monitor the temperature. When the big washer reached about 200 °C I put on the assembly and watch for melting. I used a thin layer of solder paste as you said on the whole top surface of the spacer just thick to not able to see copper colour through paste. after soldering you need to clean or drill the holes a little bit for the lens legs in the noctigon because solder run up there too.
So you switched the switch board for the one from Oshpark. But what about the switch itself? Is it still the original one or did you exchange that one, too?
Also, did you glue the spacer to the head? Or did you take some other measure to improve the heat transfer from spacer to the body? I'm asking just because I'm just in the process of building that exact same triple (just without the lighting tail cap). I can see a small gap between the spacer and the head wall and I'm thinking of filling this gap but I'm unsure how to do that. Glueing it in using artic alumina or filling it with solder? Thanks for any info.
I stayed with the original EE switch, and in the head I glued the whole spacer assembly with thermal glue. My spacer is really tight fit so I sanded down the sde after soldering together and added glue to the side also. Then when Í pushed in to the head, and put the screw what you see in the video in the middle hole and tighten down without the spring to press the spacer in head and push out unnecessary glue amount. After this I cleaned the outcoming glue, and rested for two days with the srew tightened.
Very nice. Love the lit tail
My EE host arrived today.
I think I’ll try to fill the gap with solder. If this doesn’t work, I’ll also go for the glue.
The head will suck a lot of heat so I think the solder will dry at the top of the gap and can not go down enough. You will have a big air gap around the spacer.
My plan is to put the whole head on the cooking plate, that should heat it up enough
Have you ever tried a XP-L HI instead of a XP-L? Does this give a tighter beam?
That will maybe do the job. I only built two with XP-L V6 3D leds.
X6 triple vs grey sponge after 5 seconds:
And after 30 seconds:
TIR optics are fun !
Sure :+1: 
Hi, what did you use to heat up the solder paste?
Thanks for sharing your build, btw.
I used a cooking single electric hot plate to heat up the whole thing. I use it often to replace leds on stars too.
Thanks for the heads up.