Camera light

How large are you looking for? Get an L6 and you have 3000 lumens ready to go.

The Q8 will make a great base for a camera light once it comes out.

Or like I suggested, buy X6 or X7 + triple parts, assemble, enjoy.

http://www.ledlager.de/led-stripe-led-strip-band-1m-100cm-hoher-cri-ra-95-farbwidergabeindex-16w-60-smd-meter-1260-lumen-4000k

This is a light strip for example.
Would need a custom board and can be run with a boost converter

If you do no macro its easier to get Nichia 219 on DTP copper stars and mount them on a circular heatsink I linked above you cut in 3 pieces
Ideally for professional DLSR lenses you can do 6 Nichia LEDs with those heatsinks cut and arranged in a circle
6 Nichia run at 1.8A with 2 boost converters off 2 18650 batteries will result in 4000 Lumens

Professionsl or hobby camera lights?
http://www.lightandmotion.com/choose-your-light/stella-pro/stella-2000

Hobby
https://www.amazon.com/LED-280S-3200K-5600K-Adjustable-Batteries-Camcorders/dp/B01CJNWF9E/ref=sr_1_5?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1487291574&sr=1-5&keywords=Camera+light+cri

Those prices are scary for a camera light.
So the original plan was to use 3 triple boards round the camera lens with 1 led each. Because they are triple boards, the LED can be placed close to the lens and hide shadows. I would use 2 large hole-saws to create an aluminum doughnut to screw them to. But the driver and batteries are going to make it a real bulky setup.

Perhaps I can leave all 3 on one board and just stick it in my 26650 zoomie. I’m not sure my driver can handle it, but it’s getting tempting.

Edit: my battery would only drive 2 LEDs. I might do it anyway to try.

A protected 26650 battery and FET driver with a triple wont work it will trip overcurrent protection even with 2 LEDs

A zoom light will not work great at all because the lens ruins CRI by splitting the lights gradually in its colors nor will it have useful beam pattern

Just a piece of aluminum will get coocking hot in no time, you need proper heatpath to air to stay within a safe temperature of the LEDs

Well I can limit current by not fully charging the battery. The battery protection doesn’t cut power until over 8 amp. Perhaps 2 LEDs will be all the heat I want to deal with too.

A single 219C will try to pull over 10A, you do not want protected cells with 219C’s.

What kind of camera are you talking about here, video or photo?

A lot of the better video cameras will have mounts for microphones that could hold a flashlight quite easily. Or they sell universal camera mounts that mount to the camera tripod that allow you to attach all sorts of things while offering more stable footage as well.

A single 219C will try to pull over 10A, if it has sufficient voltage to accommodate that 10A. But after looking at the graph again, damn, that is a flat curve…. 3.4 is good. 3.8 is too much…

True but even with laptop pulls I was seeing 7-8A, so no matter what you will be at or past the protection circuit if you run it flat out.

To get around this I setup the firmware to have the max duty at around 75% thus limiting current to around 6A.

I think PWM would make the video camera bug out. I think frames would be half-lit and half not, rolling around the screen.