Looks like I need to add a few of these to my cart this weekend.
There are 19 points (could be 18 depending on what is inside the switch) where electrons transfer from one part to another part. 28 if you count solder as a component. If you can identify them in the following pictures, you are on your way understanding what you need to do to figure out how to solve your flickering problem.
Alkalines have higher voltage, but limited current output capability. Eneloops are capable of high current output, but have less voltage. In a direct drive light like this, Eneloops will make a brighter light in most situations. Possibly not when the Alkalines are fresh, but that is for a brief period. Alkalines will continually decline in output from the start. Eneloops will maintain a relatively consistent output and drop off sharply at the end. So the answer is probably mixed, but most times the Eneloop will kick the Alkaline's butt by a big margin.
They are out there cheaper. Mine was about $4 there were several on Ali. No reason I linked the one I did. I won’t say do not buy it but it is a $4 light. And worth $4… if it was$10 I would say no way.
Also saw some cool COB plastic versions with USB chargability. Sleeker design too. I an away and on my phone so links and stuff will be on hold.
I am in CT, now. Buddy threw away the melted light, no parts. Also scammed an aluminum one from me.shouldn’t have shown him mine. He will still break it. Told me he dropped the melted one in antifreeze, that was the last of it.
Sign him up as a reviewer for all these eager companies that are coming here to give away flashlights.
They deserve honest evaluation by a typical customer like Buddy.
When I read the thread title I thought about modding a flashlight with a COB, like the Cree CXA leds, I’m still wanting that…
But how about putting this 95CRI COB into a light, you need 15A at 38V, the Trustfire TR-S700 with some creativity allows 9 26350’s in series…
Yeah, but you would have to sacrifice runtime. Just get a SupFire L3 with a bunch of extra extension tubes, and run 9x 26650s in series…
YIKES! 
… until you reach the practical limit on trading reduced runtime for increased brightness …
Thanks… will try to find what causes the flickering… XP
Too many parts…
Found these on EBay for a few pennies cheaper.
Looks to be the same light minus the name on the body.
Thinking about a couple………
I see $2.45 on the Aliexpress app for what looks to be the same light. Couldn’t resist ordering a couple.
If anyone is still looking to source some similar COBs…
I stumbled on these back in April and was thinking “upgrade time for my cheap Harbor Freight shoplight? ”ultrafire-3w-30-cob-230lm-3000-3200k-led-emitter:
Still tinkering with it, but so far it is a very nice improvement with a qlite 4x7135.
Nice - most I’ve seen are set up for 12V, so it’s interesting to see these ~3-4V.
On a semi-related topic, this has me thinking - would it be worthwhile to set up a string of these smaller COB’s as an alternative to the flexible LED strips ? I understand you’d have to figure out some appropriate Series/Parallel arrangement to run these at 12V, or just use the 12V ones directly in parallel. I have an upcoming project where I’m planning to run warm white LED strips along the tops of exposed ceiling beams for indirect overhead lighting, but there’d be enough room on top of each beam to run some of these narrow COBs + wires if necessary. Pros/cons to this alternative?
I just received two from the eBay listing that was mentioned earlier in the thread:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231980912121
$3.18/each, but I bought two to get the second at 5% off… 
So far, I’m impressed. I was expecting cheap construction but was happy to find that they were very solidly built, and actually had some weight to them. Threads are decent, only needing a little lube to quiet the squeaking. Anodizing is surprisingly nice as well.
Bright, with a good floody output, which works well to light up enclosed spaces and work areas evenly.
Tint is great on this light; it’s a good pure white without any blue or greenish tints.
Magnets are in both the clip and the tail of the light. They are both strong enough to hold the light vertically, but the light cannot be attached in a horizontal direction with either magnet.
Any of the ones you got does flicker some times like mine?? XP
One of mine flickers; turned out to be a flaky switch spring that disconnects at the slightest of pressure/refuses to make contact well until fiddled with. These aluminium ones are a pain to put back together; ended up shorting the batteries because of the solder tip on the side of the switch touching the body. Anyhow, let’s just say it’ll never be the same again. 
The other one I received is excellent; unbeatable value for $2.8 (Ali). Now if only they made a version with a built-in battery with plug and play micro USB charging for a couple of bucks more, they’d be even more value for money.
For flicker — generally, all flashlights — try the usual suspects
— clean the threads of black gunk (that’s aluminum oxide, eroded by friction)
— add a dab of conductive lubricant (“bulb grease” or “nyogel”) everywhere there’s electrical contact
— look at any spring; if the end touching the battery is pointy and sharp, either sand it flat or bend it slightly back away to make a broad bearing/contact surface (and add conductive lube)
— shake the light; if it flickers more, suspect something loose
— try tightening the tailcap or driver or bezel
Of course, cold solder joints are always likely, look for any that are gray instead of shiny; touch with soldering iron to make the melt better to improve contact
I’ve received mine and it’s def nice for the price, thinking of using it under the kitchen cabinet.
is there an AA version (1x or 2x or 3xAA) that’s in/near the same price range? The brand name one is like 10x the price.
Ali is cheaper but no paypal, useless to me 
I found a surprise in the tube for the second light:
Looks like they forgot to clean out the swarf! :partying_face: