Sorry, I'm just stating what I measured... You have a higher bin, cooler LED (U4 1C) running at lower amps and it will outperform a T6 4C that runs at higher amps. The step up in bins compensates for it's lower max amps. In the XM-L2 family, neutrals and warms are still in lower bins than the best cool whites, but unfortunately, the new "revision" or new "batch" of XM-L2 LED's from CREE can't be pushed as hard as the older ones - that's why the U3's and U4's are constrained somewhat, and possibly the warms and neutrals in the T6 and below levels, though I haven't see the warms or neutrals suffer yet.
To further confuse (everyone?), our light meters measure cooler whites higher than neutrals or warms, from what I understand (djozz proved that). So, my meaurements are all "ballpark" #'s, but Dale's and my measurements compare well because we have the same setups . I could, actually do some calibration/compensation of my measured #'s based on tint, but I don't really want to get into that -- I have nothing "real" to compare to, or calibrate against, accept what djozz published, but too many variables...
I can only imagine they will start selling this driver in other lights as well, especially if it's not "the BLF driver" but something that looks like it..
And maybe they'll even copy the firmware, but make it different enough to not be called "the blf TK firmware".
They’re welcome to sell, rename, and/or modify the firmware, but if they do I hope they’ll respect the GPL and share their modded source code. Technically they’re also required to provide a copy of the code to anyone who wants it, if they sell a product which uses it. However, the GPL hasn’t been tested in court in China yet so it has no “teeth” there.
If you want to stack noctigons it looks like you’d need 1 16mm and 3 20mm, The total height I made it was 0.3” and it fits well without the front glass.
Ok thanks Joat, good point about no front glass. That is how i like my optics build + you get higher lumens output with no lens & the optics gets higher to the rim & that also raises lumens
But now i realized i should have kept all of the spare Noctigons, when i made Richard reflow a bunch of leds onto 10mm Sinkpads in my last order……
I like having the glass on my X6 triple I’d destroy the optic too quickly without it. But on the A6 I can’t see the need it’s so small even if it was in my pocket with my keys it shouldn’t get scratched up quickly.
. I could, actually do some calibration/compensation of my measured #'s based on tint, but I don't really want to get into that -- I have nothing "real" to compare to, or calibrate against, accept what djozz published, but too many variables... 
