So have you got your Essential Gear Pico Lite?
Um, well….
I got one about two months ago.
I also bought one for hubby.
Since then I’ve bought one for my brother, mum, and dad.
I’ve bought 3 more, currently sitting on my floor, ready to give to three friends when I see them next. 
I just purchased a i3s and the seller and manufacturer spec is
80 lm - 1 hr
20 lm - 10 hr
.5 lm - 120 hr
but the manual I got say
80 lm - 35 min
20 lm - 8 hr
.5 lm - 60 hr
What did yours say?
The lumens “80L - 35 min”… are calculated with alkaline battery (as indicated in the instructions)
The lumens for “1 hour-80 L” “20L- 8 hours”…are calculated with NiMH battery
Ok thanks. Seems like a little shaddy marketing.
I checked ‘tailcap’ current draw with Eneloop at 1.3volts.
High - 800mA
Med - 100mA
Low - 7mA (this one is too low for accurate measure on my meter.)
Getting 8 hours of 20 lumen from a 800mAh Battery is great performance for this light. This is low enough current draw to actually use alkaline batteries. (in a pinch)
For comparison, the XP-G ITP A3 I have draws 340mA on medium, putting out the same lumens.
With that low of a current draw the alkaline may even outperform the NiMH (on med anyway).
Agreed, with the i3s starting out in Med mode, this kills your night vision, important for those using it as a CC light for covert uses.
After trying several EDC aaa’s, I find the original ItP A3 eos my fav.
For some reason the specs posted in this review don’t match up with the official Olight specs. Those are 35m (max 80 ), 8 hours (med 20), 60 hours (moonlight .5).
As mentioned above, it depends on the battery used.
The I3S comes with an Alkaline, which runs very poorly on high at about 800mA, so only gets 30 minutes. At lower current the Alkaline does better.
Something about the ANSI ratings; I believe if they include a battery, the run time must use that battery. A lithium or NiMH will fair much better.
Would it be feasible to change out the XP-G2 with an XP-L? Obviously, this would have adverse effects on the use with Alkalines, but when the goal is Lumens…
What does everyone think? Also, how hard is it to disassemble?
I’ve checked the “tailcap” current more than once with a fully charged eneloop and here’s what i get:
H - 2 A
M - 169 mA
L - 6,5 mA
how is that possible?
I have also measured two Thrunite TI3 and one TI3 titanium XP-L and the three of them all sit between 1,42 A and 1,50 A. I haven’t measured the led riving current, but the luminous output is noticeably higher and both the TI3 and the i3s use an XP-G2… so how is it possible that the i3s runs at 1,8 - 2 A? can someone else check the tailcap current of their i3s? (it can be a bit trick to touch the negative pad on the pcb if your multimeter has thick leads)