Please experts, correct whatever I'm about to get wrong . . .
Those ratings have more to do with how much maximum current the switch can withstand, rather than how much they allow. The current on most regulated drop-ins is determined by the driver. The switch simply completes (on) or interupts (off) the juice going to the driver. The driver then either decreases the current (buck) increases it (boost) and/or lets it go on through direct.
I've experienced a several switch failures playing the xxxFire 50x lottery. Sometimes these were my own fault. Like, for example, my continuing practice of getting a DoucheFire 50stoopid originally equipped with an R2 or Q5 (with a tail switch presumably rated for that low output drop-in, i.e <1.50 amps) and then loading that bad boy with a 3.5> amp direct drive XM-L and un-protected 18650. I then come on here and rant about the lousy quality of 50suck hosts and their "weak" switches.
I think your on the money there Foy a 7 amp switch will not give a led 7 amps with a 3 amp driver, it will only allow 3 amps to pass through it, but a 7 amp switch should last longer at 4 amps then a 3 amp switch if that makes sence. All the solarforce switches I have (6) have been fine for under 2 amps by my current draw test,s not sure what the standard old style L2, new tail standing L2P and my new L2X switch's are rated for, or the soft HA3 tail standing forward clicky and the Matt black S1 style switch.
I noticed in your M6 review the stainless bezel on the s9 will unscrew leaving it similar to a tactical switch. Is the s11 supposed to do the same? I've tried mine but it's really tight and I didn't want to force it in case it's glued or pressed instead of threaded like the s9. With cold weather here I'm thinking it would be nice to be able to remove it when needed for easier use with gloves.
Tony - The stainless ring on the M6 is the only one I can get off. I have another S9 switch and I've hurt myself trying to unscrew it. I guess they're different, although they seem the same otherwise.
ezarc - When you press a reverse clicky, the light does not come on until you release the button or . . . when reversing the button. The light comes on immediately when pressing a forward clicky . . . forward.
But, with a forward clicky, don't you have to click off to change modes? I'm basing this on my Romisen RC-29 which is the only forward clicky light I own..
Hmm. doesn't make sense that they'd go to the trouble to change tooling for an otherwise identical switch. High strength threadlock maybe? I wonder if I could heat the stainless enough to get the bezel loosened up without damaging the ano? I may fool with it later. If it all goes horribly wrong I'll just have to order another s11.
Here's the switch that came with my L2P. I scuffed the ano on the garage floor so I decided to have some fun with it. I think it might look pretty good in combination with a Foybezel.
Can't figure out how to post the pic but hopefully the link will work.
Just heat as it turns out and not very much of that. What I did was disassemble the switch and while holding the bottom of the tailcap with my bare hand, ran my mapp gas torch very briefly over the stainless feathering the stainless into the flame and quickly back out again. Once I could feel the aluminum starting to get warm, I slid an allen key through the lanyard holes, wrapped the bottom part of the tailcap in a towel for better grip and gave it a twist. It took two tries due to being very careful with the heat so as not to discolor the ano but on the second try it popped free and unscrewed easily. Now it spins on and off as easily as the one on my M6.
Hi all. Just picked up an L2T, and judging from this thread, if I want to switch the head or switch, nothing else in the Solarforce lineup matches that model's matt finish. In an email, they told me that a new L2M would -- but it doesn't look as if it would be quite right. Anyone have both? I'm also wondering whether an L2x head or switch would work with the L2T body...
Interesting. So which black finishes *do* match? Can you throw together any of the current HAIII bits? Will an L2X bezel have the same black finish as a 2011 L2P?
(I know that "HAIII" is redundant, but it seems to have become official Solarforce terminology.)
I have a grey L2P 2011 on the way, as well as a gunmetal L2M (older model) -- I don't expect either of these to actually match anything, but they might look okay with black/SS parts.
Here are my Masterpieces. The tail cap in the foreground is the S4 that arrived today.
Here's my S3, S4, and S5. The S5 came with the Masterpiece flashlight.
Taking all three switches apart, they all have the same switch mechanism and rubber button in them. They differ in details. The retaining and spacer ring between the switch and rubber button on the S3 is different than used on the S4 and S5. It could be because the S3 is an older switch.
