【convoy】H4 and B35AM options are updated

[Ibleedspeed]

@Simon if the S12 will not work for UV and you will make a C8 with LG UV how will it be different then the Fyrfly C8?

[oweban]

Tempted to get the S12 and 3x the higher current LG UV emitters…

[Ibleedspeed]

Let me know if it works! lol I really want a more powerful wide beam UV light… The Jaxman is the only one I know of that is a filter wide beam UV but its lacking a little punch… it detects well its just not quite powerful enough.

[oweban]

Yeah I’ve got the S2+ nichia, but the hotspot is still too pronounced. Need to look into a ZWB2 filter of the same size too

Pity the higher current LG emitters are >$18 AUD each including tax

[Rayoui]

I have the 5x7135 version of the LG S2 and it has a nice floody beam. It gets pretty warm after a few minutes of continuous use. A 3xLG UV S12 would definitely get uncomfortably warm very fast. Hopefully the new C8 UV has a driver tailored for these LEDs that can sustain ~3.5V.

[oweban]

Hmm. Can drop the 6A driver back to 4A, and give each emitter 1.33A at 100%…

[lightdecay]

@Ibleedspeed

Let me know if it works! lol I really want a more powerful wide beam UV light… The Jaxman is the only one I know of that is a filter wide beam UV but its lacking a little punch… it detects well its just not quite powerful enough.

If you really need a powerful wide beam UV light, there is always the Acebeam X80 UV. 16x Nichia 276A 365nm UV LEDs!
https://www.batteryjunction.com/acebeam-x80-uv-ultraviolet-search-light.html

[lightdecay]

@Scientist

@Simon Mao

the second problem ,it’s too hot ,And the heat resistance of LG UV LED is not good.

Simon: I am interested in how you know the heat resistance of LG UV LED is not good. Any real data or just reports from users? And what does not good mean? Lifetime shortened to 2000 hours is still better than most conventional UV bulbs.

See djozz’s post about this issue:

AceBeam X80 - Problem with UV LED

As Henk pointed out, the 276A is a rather sensitive led that does not like getting hot and being overdriven. I’m not sure if Acebeam was aware of that but here on BLF it has been found years ago. What happened to one of my lights in which a 276A was slightly overdriven is that the white stuff in between the traces on the led disappeared and that the led started emitting lots of visible light, with output loss of UV. Healthy led on the left, damaged led on the right. [image] [image]

[oweban]

Okay, so the way I’m looking at it:

5*7135 = 1.75A, so three would be 5.25A. The driver that’s in the light runs 6A at 100%.

R050 and R015 in parallel (replacing the R010) on the driver board would end up at 5.2A. So pretty viable I’d think, but to be conservative, just the R015 to make it 4A, so less heat (distributed over three emitters).

[Simon_Mao]

@texas shooter

@Simon Mao

@texas shooter

@Simon Mao

@texas shooter

@Simon Mao

@mattlward

I saw a P60 mentioned… I do wish there was an affordable 21700 P60 light out there. I use many of them for sane output lights, granted they do not make great hot rods but I do not always need a hot rod light.

Any chance Simon?

I am not sure if the P60 has a patent for appearance.

Patent issues with the clones was on the dropin pocket size. The solution was that Solarforce and many others increased the pocket dimensions. Now needing that additional spring around the pill. However appearance is up to the creator. Your S12 tail cap and battery tube portion would be a nice style that’s yours. Then a dropin pocket added on top. But please keep the head threads standard for all those custom heads. Personally I would buy at least 10 to upgrade run times on most of my “around the house and car P60’s”. Granted the style and function might be dated, it’s still the one loved by many. It’s the only host I use to build lights for my fellow officers in my area. Mostly 1 to 3.8 amp dropins were heat is not an issue. The flexibility of swapping dropins allows the same light to work patrol, currency verification, organic detection, etc. If a little extra attention is made to the tail cap and double o-rings on the head and body to keep that high level of water proofing, great. I prefer simple always working duty lights without electronic switches or charging ports. It’s always been a P60 from Surefire or Solarforce on my duty belt for the last 15 years. Some newer lights are brighter but none are better.

i’m sorry ,i’m not familiar with P60 ,i have a silly question ,is it 26.5mm drop-in in P60 or suitable for P60?

Not a silly questions if I’m trying to persuade you to build them. The 26.5mm drop-in was specifically built to go into P60 style host. Along with the 17mm driver. Surefire came out with the P3 single cr123a, P6 double cr123a and the P9 triple cr123a all have this same 26.5mm drop-in pocket. About the time they converted to LED’s they became the P30, P60 and the P90. This denotes 3v, 6v, and 9v. Most clones went to the P60 which was also about the time the Li-ion 18650 cell came out and it all lined up as the perfect match. P60 size, LED’s and the 18650 all came together creating this light but Surefire did not convert to 18650 but stayed with 2-cr123a’s for extreme military conditions. Several years latter the P60 clones stayed the same but 20700 and 21700 batteries have been introduced. When the NCR20700A from Panasonic/Sanyo came out we went from 3500 mah/10amp 18650’s to 4200 mah/15amp over night. I hoped that some one would upgrade the host to this huge gain, but no. Now at 21700 cells we have nearly 5000 mah/10amp cells. I could work traffic accidents all night long in the worst weather and not need a battery change.

If you could be persuaded to build the host great.

Would you also consider building a 26.5mm drop-in with your Convoy 17mm driver for SST40 ,4 modes 0.1–3–30–100, 5000mA. As a separate item or packaged with the host as a option.

Thank you,
Paul

Thank you very much for your explanation. If I design the 21700 version of the P60, I want to make integrated head or brass drop-in for it instead of D26 ,
This structure of D26, I think it is not good for heat dissipation

Time for my silly question. What is an integrated head and would it still allow drop-ins to be used?

for example ,the C8

[oweban]

Simon, what’s the diameter and thickness of the glass on the S12?

[Simon_Mao]

@oweban

Simon, what’s the diameter and thickness of the glass on the S12?

30.8mm diameter，2.5mm thickness

[oweban]

Fantastic, thanks! Going to turn it into a UV cannon at some stage

[andr3w]

@andr3w

@Mocarny

@Simon Mao

@Mocarny

Simon, is it possible to make turbo mode access only after 2 click, from any position(on or off) without memorizing it?
So it could be 0,1% - 1% - 10% - 40% and turbo after 2 click

yes ,and what driver model?

It could be in driver for SST40 and new 3*SST20

If turbo is only 1-2 min I can’t see point of memorizing it, and it would give more modes, 4 in loop and turbo when needed. Then it could be really “turbo”, not the highest mode

I definitely want it for S2+ with SST40 (and all other models too:)
Is there any estimates when it will be available?

Simon, could you please tell if there are any plans for it? I mean turbo access by two clicks (from “turned off” state as well).
I want S21A with sst40 and this feature, if possible.

[Mocarny]

@andr3w

@andr3w

@Mocarny

@Simon Mao

@Mocarny

Simon, is it possible to make turbo mode access only after 2 click, from any position(on or off) without memorizing it?
So it could be 0,1% - 1% - 10% - 40% and turbo after 2 click

yes ,and what driver model?

It could be in driver for SST40 and new 3*SST20

If turbo is only 1-2 min I can’t see point of memorizing it, and it would give more modes, 4 in loop and turbo when needed. Then it could be really “turbo”, not the highest mode

I definitely want it for S2+ with SST40 (and all other models too:)
Is there any estimates when it will be available?

Simon, could you please tell if there are any plans for it? I mean turbo access by two clicks (from “turned off” state as well).
I want S21A with sst40 and this feature, if possible.

As far as I understand, 2 clicks from off state is only possible with e-switch. But from on, instead of strobe it is possible. More low modes in EDC light is always nice

[amishbill]

I like the design of the S12, but I still feel a little burned by the battery size issues of the S21a.

The M4U - Yeah - a nice tube style 26650 light.
What driver is in it?
Can it be flashed to something more interesting? (Anduril - I fear I’m becoming a UI snob)

[andr3w]

@Mocarny

As far as I understand, 2 clicks from off state is only possible with e-switch. But from on, instead of strobe it is possible. More low modes in EDC light is always nice

I’m OK with even “click+halfclick” sequence, it should be possible with any switch.
However for stress situations, second full click might be better.

[hodor]

I see the H1 is (back?) on the Ali store. Different knurling. I’m guessing with the updated UI that’s been talked about?

[ZozzV6]

@hodor

I see the H1 is (back?) on the Ali store. Different knurling. I’m guessing with the updated UI that’s been talked about?

And does it has now the updated headband?

[80T]

@amishbill

The M4U - Yeah - a nice tube style 26650 light. What driver is in it? Can it be flashed to something more interesting? (Anduril - I fear I’m becoming a UI snob)

I can see in the page description that it's running Biscotti.

Also in one of the pictures you can notice the cut-out in the driver and a mechanical switch going flush with the cut-out.