I thought I saw 100R etc . Thanks TA
I will search for links to update the others , but i don’t think they will be cheap .
Yeah, sense resistors are not nearly as cheap but they have to be small resistance or they will cause too much of a voltage drop on the line.
I ordered some from digikey and I think they were $2.38 for 10 of them.
I just looked at the ones I have and they are from fasttech. These are exactly what I had but they are out of stock
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1002/10007371/1615805
Here is an R100 that should also work. Still very cheap from FT.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1002/10007371/1615807
EDIT: This should also work.
L6 is back in stock at Adventure Sport
http://asflashlights.com/convoy-flashlights/92-convoy-l6-3800-lumen-cree-xhp70-1a-and-3c.html
bump.
If you feel like experimenting, this should work: take a single strand from a stranded wire and make a loop/coil of a few turns (not touching other loops in the coil!), then pot it in Fujik. It’ll act as a makeshift wirewound resistor.
With nonmetals like carbon, the resistance is more or less constant with temperature, but metals increase in resistance slightly as they heat up, so this would have the effect of more of a short-circuit (like you did with the jumper wire) when cool, but slowly increase slightly in resistance and also slightly throttle-down the LED current.
The thinner the wire the higher the resistance. With a few lengths (gauge, length of the total “coil”), you can experiment to see what response you like best.
Enjoy!
Great video! You made the slicing look super easy. I think it would take me longer, but looks like you did this a few times 
. What did you do for the focus adjustments?
Thank you Tom. When I had the driver out I replaced the silicone wires with teflon so the reflector could sit lower. Basically the best focus I got with what testing I did was simply to leave out the isolator ring ( no shims etc needed). The reflector can sit down on the rim of the head without touching the LED this way, but its very close. Kapton tape over the electrical contacts is a good plan.
Ahh, ok. Thanx!
Whats the limit on how many resistors i can add?
Well adding a bunch is one way of doing it although simply using a smaller resistor is easier.
Or if you really want to go extreme simply bridge the resistor.
Is it a viable solution or will it fry the driver ?
It should be ok to bridge it although I saw at least one driver that fried itself after being bridged.
If you really want max power I have a batch of L6 30mm Texas Avenger drivers on the way that will get everything out of the L6 that it has to give.
So will it still work with the e-switch? You’ll need to make a video tutorial for us as well! 
Yes, all the Texas Avenger drivers work with both E-switch and clicky switch. Narsil for e-switch lights and Bistro for Clicky.
A video for what part?
Replacing the convoy driver with yours! 
Oh, lol. I might do that although it is fairly simple. You simply need to swap 4 wires from the stock driver to the Texas Avenger. The 2 LED power wires and the 2 switch wires.
It does need a soldering iron but it is pretty basic soldering.
What would the modes be like? Things seem very tight in the l6, is there a step by step instruction? It seems much more difficult than say a c8
Once I have the drivers in and built I can look into making a tutorial on it.
Although it is honestly quite simple. Just like any other driver swap in any other common light around here. The only real difference are 2 more wires for the e-switch compared to a C8.
Basically you:
Unscrew the bezel, remove the reflector and desolder the LED wires from the star so that the driver can be removed
Unscrew the retaining ring and remove the stock L6 driver
De-solder the e-switch wires (and LED wires if you want to reuse them) from the stock driver
Solder e-switch and LED wires to the Texas Avenger drivers
Install the driver into the light, feeding the LED wires through the holes to the star
Solder the LED wires back onto the LED star.
Screw the bezel back in place and tighten the retaining ring.
Enjoy.
If you have basic soldering skills then it is really fairly simple. The biggest tip is to use a very hot iron when soldering the LED star (not for the rest though).
+1 for what TA said. You can stack as many resistors on there as you want, but after a couple it will make no difference. If you just want to go to maximum you can use a piece of wire rather than a resistor.