Hahaa!! A little Ringy is it! Better/Worse? The Answer: It’s for those who know and you to find out!! 
smo reflector begs for xhp70.2
Thanks! I didn’t see that.
I’d say you have the same beam pattern, it’s just more intense. Why did you buy the SMO, I hope its not for pretty beam shape. Lol
It does give a big jump in lux and distance, but you have to play with the distance from the emitter to get a smoother hot spot.
I’m kinda digging my shaved dome xhp70 with the OP reflector. It’s definitely a tighter “pretty” beam. Still has improved throw, too.
My xhp50.2 should arrive any day now and I’ll try it with the SMO reflector.
He responded to this same question on the L2 and L6 mod thread. I just copied it here.
If you look at the L2 reflector base and compare it to the L6 you’ll see a couple major differences. I do believe a narrower, thinner base helps, You will also notice the angled interior base on the L2, a smoother transition going out into the reflector, then the straight angle base of the L6.
With the XHP50 L2 build I just shaved the reflector base paper thin and the hot spot is very tight and clean, with just a faint very narrow ghost ring of a corona.
The XHP35 HD L6 build, I hazed or diffused the base and up the reflector to about 2-2.5mm, the rings are still there ever so faintly, on the WALL, but outside, nothing! At 3+ amps I have no doubt the XHP35HD E4 3C is putting out 3000 Lumen, pretty impressive high out put big beam thrower!
Notice how thick the base still is, even after filing half of it away, you notice it more when it is sitting on the board! It’s good enough for 
now……
Just noticed a flash deal @ Banggood for the Clear L6 for short term. Cool White is already out of stock ($45), but 5000k, 4000k & 3000k tints are available.
Okay, I borrowed a clamp style ammeter and used a 6” long piece of 10 GA wire to measure at the tail cap. I say “roughly” on the first 2 measurement’s because I had to convert my old multimeter readings to the newer clamp meter readings using math.
The xhp70 with FX-30 driver and protected KeepPower 5200. Turbo/high:
Stock - roughly 5.5 amp
R082 Added - roughly 6.4 amp
Wire Added - 6.6/2.1 amp
Liitokalas with wire added - 8.1/2.8 amp!
I also swapped in a new lower forward voltage xhp50.2 into my light with the wire added to the driver. Turbo/high.
Keeppower - 6.7/2.0 amp
Liitokala - 8.9/2.7 amp
Big jump up with the different batteries. More than I expected. Even high mode was drawing more amps with the Liitokalas.
I’m told that the really big 8.9 amp load I got with the xhp50.2 was due to the wire I added. It makes the driver go direct drive. If I swap back to a R082 or R100 resistor output should drop down a lot and I’ll get better battery life along with less heat buildup.
Do you also see a lumenboost with the Liitokalas? Or are they only making more heat?
My meter is out being calibrated right now so I can’t tell you how much brighter it is in actual lux, but I can see it’s brighter. I can take both sets of fully charged batteries and swap them and see the difference.
I’ll report back when I’m able to take lux measurements.
Ok, tried it a few days. I definitely don’t like the beam with smooth reflector. Anyone tried the op reflector with a shaved dome? How much does this lower total lumen output?
It’s noticably less bright regardless of what reflector you use, but it boosts lux. So you gain distance. Is that your goal?
It’s a pretty beam with the OP reflector, tighter as well, but I still don’t like the loss of lumens.
If you’ve added a resistor to boost output, shaving the dome is like going back to stock. I’m seriously thinking of buying a new xhp70 emitter just to get the dome back and make it bright again.
Thanks! Yes i have an added resistor. Guess iam going back to the op reflector and leave the dome on as I don’t want to lose to much lumens.
I don’t have a goal for this light, I just like to mod, but don’t want to mess this one up. I will satisfy my modding needs on an other light.
Here is a comparison. Use the left side picture below and compare it to the lower pic. Which looks nicer?
I like the bottom one best. Keeping the L6 stock with resistor boost. If I want throw, I’ll grab one of my dedicated throwers.
Thanks again!
Yeah, it’s hard to avoid the donut shape with the SMO. Running the xhp50.2 does help, but it’s not as bright and has a very yellow corona. The xhp70.2 will be nice and bright with minimal donut shape, but still the yellow corona. I’m guessing. We’ll have the wait and see.
More Bigger Cooling Fins
What?
Did you post this in the correct thread?
Okay, I am back. I received my new Uni-T UT210E so my current measurements will be in line with others here. I used a 6” length of 10 gauge wire on the tail cap. I measured both the Liitokala and KeepPower 5200 protected cells. Emitter was the xhp70, no 50.2 this time. I only tested each for maybe 5 seconds so I could do a lot of tests without having to fully recharge the batteries each time. The hundredths place was rounded to the nearest 0 or 5. Springs are bypassed with mesh copper braid used for desoldering.
First up is the stock FX-30 driver with the 2 R082 resistors, no mods.
Liitokala
Turbo/high = 4.60 amps
Med = 2.55 amps
Low = 0.55 amps
KeepPower
Turbo/high = 5.10 amps
Med = 1.90 amps
Low = 0.45 amps
Kind of strange, I double checked it. Does anyone have a answer as to why the Liitokala were so low on turbo compared to the KP, yet the lower levels seemed normal? This is the first time I paired my Liitokala’s with an unmodded driver so the results are surprising.
Next is with an R100 resister stacked on top of the 2 R082’s.
Liitokala
Turbo/high = 7.00 amps
Med = 2.60 amps
Low = 0.55 amps
KeepPower
Turbo/high = 5.70 amps
Med = 1.90 amps
Low = 0.45 amps
Next is with no added resister, but added a wire across.
Liitokala
Turbo/high = 7.70 amps
Med = 2.70 amps
Low = 0.55 amps
KeepPower
Turbo/high = 6.10 amps
Med = 1.95 amps
Low = 0.45 amps
So 7.7 amp is the most I can get from this driver with the xhp70. My borrowed meter read 8.1, but all it’s readings were a little bit higher compared to the Uni-T meter. Also, all my readings on the next lower power level showed the Liitokala as 0.70 amp higher than the KP.
I’m going to stick with the R100 mod for the time being. Once I get my lux meter back I’ll do some comparisons between batteries to see how much brighter just a battery swap can be. I’ve also got some R082 and R120 resistors I can try, but I doubt there will be much difference over the R100. Plus it’s a pain soldering those things. :confounded: Maybe a smaller soldering tip would help.
This is just a heads up gang. A few moments ago I discovered that the most recent batch of Keeppower protected 26650s is much larger in diameter than the last shipment, and therefore no longer fit the L6 body.
I was able to get them to fit ok in the body tube of my original ( one that was made before the logo was added) because it had an ID about 0.006 larger. I’m not faulting Convoy for this, just saying they did fit my older one.
