X-Rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.
Yes, the A6 draws about double the current as a 8x7135 driven light like the S2+. (Fully charged high-drain cells, of course.)
Still, quite surprising to me that it burns so quickly.
I wonder if a FET-driven C8 light could burn as easily? The deep reflector means anything you’re trying to burn is a lot further away from the LED than in a light like the BLF-A6 (or Convoy S2+). Also, the larger diameter reflector would probably spread out the heat and make it less intense.
Thanks! Do I read it correctly that its CRI is 73?
That’s right.
Got the 18350 tan tube yesterday! Time for a small pocket “thrower”! :sunglasses:
Uh, oh… that’s cool. I must add it to my shopping list. Did you get it from Simon/Ali Express? Got a link you can post?
Also, is that the OEM clip or are you using something different with the 18350 tube?
Yes, I bought it from Simon! 
Here’s the link: Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com
The clip is just a regular S2+ clip (from Simon’s store) with 2 magnets and heatshrink tube. I gave some suggestions for these in this post!
It is very helpful to get it stuck in a metal surface for works or something else.
In the tail it has a magnet ring (also from Simon), and a bit of glow-in-the-dark adhesive tape to find it in the dark if lost!
And it also helps a lot :+1:
Thanks!
Are you able to measure the weight of regular S2+ DT with battery as well as the S2+ DT 18350 with battery? Curious to see the weight savings.
Also, how tall is it with the 18350 tube installed?
What do you prefer? 4C or 3A?
Is it correct that 4C is really more greenish than 3A?
3A for me, although I really like the warmer tints better, like 5D, but that’s not always an option.
And yes, in Cree’s tint binning xA & xD bins are above the bbl, which tend rosy. xB & xC bins are below, tending greenish. That doesn’t mean every emitter in those bins have those off-tints though. Some individual specimens in every bin will be close to the bbl and not have any cast at all, but if a given emitter drifts a bit, it’ll go in those directions.
i like 4C for outdoor and 3A for indoor. 3A still too white but 4c is borderline too yellow for me.
Well, I can’t weight it, I don’t have a (precision) scale 
However, I can show you this :nerd_face: 
I can tell you this: you won’t notice much difference between using this with a 18650 and a 18350 cell in terms of weight because there are only some grams in difference. Hand feeling of course.
But you’ll notice it in terms of length! That is for sure, and that’s the reason I like these conversions from 18650 to 18350, to be able to use the same light in a smaller shape, that has the same power and only loses runtime.
Here are some measurements of the S2+ Desert Tan vs a regular S2+ in both forms:
18350:
18650:
Size comparison with other lights:
The DT version is slightly bigger than the regular S2+ as can be seen. In terms of weight, I guess there is no difference (not significant, at least).
Thanks for the pics.
Strange. I’ve got two S2+, a DT and an older non-DT, and they’re both the same length.
Maybe there was a revision batch somewhere in time! I just realized that too making these measurements! I used the 2 different black S2+, so those are equal among them, and both are different from the DT!!
Are you using different length batteries, by any chance? Are the lights still different length with batteries removed?
In general, is there a difference in the length of a metal switch S2, compared to a rubber switch S2? That could account for the difference between the black and tan. The black ones have rubber switches, correct?
Here are the differences, side by side! Please note that everything has a equal size except the tail!
The difference may have to do with the interior space needed for the metal swicth, as korpzgrinda said. The clicky switches are equal in size, so maybe the metal made the difference against the rubber!
Initially I thought about the batteries, but even with a Panasonic protected vs Samsung 30Q there would not be a exterior difference, i guess!
Oh, OK. Both my S2+ have metal switches, so maybe that’s why they are same size in my case.
Yeah, perhaps all the metal clickies have the same length due to internal differences! Both my black are rubber tailcap and the tan is metal, so there’s the difference :+1:
About those tints, maukka gave me a nice updated tint chart. It explains a lot about why the A and D tints look so much better than B and C, among other things.
