From what I have read, the larger the grain size of the strontium aluminate, the better the glow… Up to some size of course. I do not think you will go wrong with the stuff you listed. I was looking for cheaper to play with the colors and so I selected what I linked. The Glow On brand paints are good too, but much more pricey. As long as the glow stuff is strontium aluminate, it should all be pretty darn good. I would try the paint version HERE if you did not want to mix your own, but the powder would go in any kind of glue that you mix it in, so that has its advantages too….
ReManG. This thread got me going on a whole new line of projects. I started thinking, low amps and civilians with Li Ion batteries...this could solve some problems. Power failure = neighbors in my building coming to me for flashlights.
I won't lend out my moded Li Ion lights to civilians. You can explain about them getting hot and running down the cells fast, so should be turned down to lower modes.
Civilians = high mode...just high mode. Whatever you told them will be forgotten immediately and the whatever light they have will always be on high mode. It's a fact.
I always keep a supply of Rechargable AA lights as loaners. This way they can't hurt the lights, or themselves. This thread got me thinking about civilians and Li Ions. I found a couple cheap $3 S2 knockoffs me and ohaya picked up a couple years ago, along with clearance Luxeon rebels. ($3 cheapies really do cause more work than the real thing)
Anyway, to get back to the point, I took your advice and built two low amp lights. A single emitter @ .75A, and a triple @ 1.4A (neutral Luxeon rebels). These are the Li Ion lights that I will lend to civilians. Lots of illumination without heat and power drain. I have them loaded with 3400 protected cells. I also discovered that I love frosted optics for indoor illumination. Nice even light without an annoying hotspot. There's not much real difference between the triple and the single. Maybe a bit wider spill. I might try some of the wider angle optics as well...in frosted.
Back to the civilians. I've ordered a bunch of those magnets that fit in the tail of convoy type torches, so I can locate two or three lights magnetically to existing ceiling fixtures, providing low amp illumination throughout the apartment. I would also supply them with an AA "walking around light. I have a bunch of convoy S2+, regular and shorties, on order, to build several more.
Of coarse, my own personal indoor ceiling mounted illuminators will be highly modded because I'm responsible, andknow how to use modes, but the civilian loaners will be 1A with protected cells.
My, that Ouchyfoot can really keep yakking, can't he.
I really like those luxeons for indoors, I might order some newer type rebels to try out. I'm going build some of these with nichias and osrams too. If you have a power failure, you might as well have nice lighting instead of just walking around the house with a bright hot spot.
Realy cheap $3 host flashlight. I don't recommend them. Way too much work adapting them for anything. Just ask ohaya, he'll vouch for me.
A filed down noctigon so I could fit a 20mm star. The luxeons were on non DTP aluminum boards, and the pill just drops into the empty head, so a little extra copper doesn't hurt, even at 1A.
This board is designed for series, so I removed the linking resisters so I could rewire in parallel.
The only way I could make things fit was to drill a hole through the center of the triple board and bring the wires up the center.
Note the wire in the front that's not soldered to the pad. (I picked up my new glasses three hours after this pic was taken. Did most of the soldering with one eye closed so as not to see double)
As usual, before installing, I hooked the triple up to a battery to make sure it worked. Of coarse, when testing LEDs, you face them away so as not to blind yourself. Okay, it worked.
After I took this picture and saw that front wire, I hooked it up again and sure enough, only two emitters running. With triples in parallel, sometimes you have to blind yourself to make sure all three are running. Taking this picture saved me a lot of work.
Nice and frosty.
The end results. Real nice lighting at low amps. Waiting for my tail magnets so they'll become real ceiling fixtures.
single @ .7A & triple @ 1.4A
Okay ReManG, thanks for letting me blather for so long in your thread...but...you started it.
Ok, now that is some good stuff right there Ouchyfoot! I like the idea of the loaner lights for emergencies and I too would feel comfortable doing that with LiIon in these low amp triples. The idea for the magnets on the tail to attach to the ceiling fixtures is excellent, it would also work for the metal registers for the HVAC and would allow much better light direction than just putting it on a table or wherever.
This is the kind of motivation I had hoped to inspire, thanks!
I just received a package from KD and got the Nichia’s and the XP-G2 R5-4C triples that you recommended.
Installed the Nichia into a Convoy S2+ and put the XP-G2 into a cheap Ultrafire S5
I am just running the stock 2.8 amp driver in the Convoy and it works real well, I usually use medium anyway so I am at the 1.4 amp mode and still have high for a short burst. Amazed at how well the heat transfers even over that small ledge. Used thin layer of Arctic Silver.
The S5 also is using the stock driver but with upgraded wires. Pulls 1.29 amps high, crappy 5 mode with next mode so that will have to go in the future.
But all in all a dandy little light for under $12 for all parts and host.
Thanks for the great idea. It looks like this setup may also work in the Thorfire TG18 and the Trustfire TR801
Love those low budget BLF Mods:)
Give that S5 a new driver !
Ordered too some triples from KD , and one is going to be a low amp one 
Don’t paint the optic. TIR depends on a clean, uncontaminated surface with zero contact. Anything touching will allow light to transmit through the parabolic surface at that point of contact rather than reflecting off. Better to mix the glo powder with epoxy and paint the mcpcb or interior of the host head. It would increase output slightly to also ream the bezel to allow more of the optic to show since it’s slightly covered where the reflector surface isn’t.
TIR does depend on the boundary interface between optical layers. Since the optics aren’t terribly expensive maybe somebody with one of those new integrating spheres can actually test this?