That’s nice but my understanding is that he was looking for alternatives to the 7010 as they are hard to find (and maybe he doesn’t want another due to bad vibes).
Try to find one of the 8 series with Sandvik steel
The 811 is perfect size for me yet the 8Cr14MoV is holding an edge much less than the bigger 910+ series’s 12C27
The 7 and 8 series is better for your purpose though as in my opinion the ball bearings on the 910+ collect more gunk than the washers on the 710/7010 and 811/812
There’s even a titanium version of the 812 available, $60 is way too expensive for my liking though
Anyways, I like my 811 enough to give it a CF front scale. Reduces the weight from 108g to 84g, perfect for edc.
My 8103 is very hard to open. And most every owners at the time said the same - even some stores warned about it on their listing.
Maybe it has changed, maybe not. I don’t know. I don’t recommend it.
If you pay for shipping, I’ll send you one. I bought 20 of these about seven years ago or so and gave as “thank you”gifts to friends. I’m sure I have one or two left, I’ll go look and see.
I don’t have one but i magine there’s just too much pressure on the lockbar of the pivot is way too tight (probably the latter) both are an easy fix though.
I examined it and could not attribute the blame to just one parameter. It was definitely not merely caused by pivot tightness or lockbar pressure.
Seems like a bunch of things came together in a bad way and made for poor ergonomics.
For a knife company/designer, yes - it should be an easy fix. At one point in time I was told by a store rep that SRM were aware of the issue and pledge to revise the knife. However since then I have heard nothing.
Whether they have made the fix since launch, I don’t know. There are not many owners of this knife compared to 710 or 910 series. So hard to gauge.
I’m not hevy user. For me this kind (lock get so soft that it was trashcan thing) happened with one Enland knife with what I liked just play watching computer screen and so on. So I happy so far with my Victorinoxes and Ganzo 759M (light, so can be used in garden on morning and pants dont slip down)
Just curious, how many knife descriptions you seen where mentioned what kind steel are used for body?
I think, I seen some where mentioned, that body are “Titanium alloy” (whatever it means) and some where mentioned that body are 3CR… or somthing similar.
Steel handles are some type of stainless 99% of the time (carbon steels, high hard and toughness don’t make sense for handles and are prone to rust) but they hardly ever tell you what type of stainless but i think it’s 440A most of the time.
As for titanium, it’s usually grade 4.
And for blade steels… too much to talk about really but in order of low-high quality/price
3CR variants (this doesn’t hold an edge at all, it’s almost plastic in that regard)
5CR variants, not much of an improvement over 3CR
8CR is the gold standard for cheap knives and does pretty well for a not hard use EDC, don’t plan on cutting cardboard with it because it’l dull fast
The next few in no particular order, they’re very similar but have an “edge” in a different area.
12C27N (sandvik) the gold standard for budget knives shared with the one after this (IMO), made for razor blades so takes a very fine edge and is easy “sharpen” by stropping
14C28N (sandvik) slightly better edge retention than the one above
VG10 very similar to the one above, shares the same spot
440C, tougher than the sandvik’s but don’t take a super fine edge
Now in a particular order again
440HC 440c with a higher carbon content, making it harder so it holds an edge much better but makes it more prone to rust. very good steel if it has a good heat treat
D2, AKA tool steel. the budget “super steel” stainless unless you’re in a wet/salt environment, extremely tough and takes a pretty fine edge but is hard to sharpen (definitely want diamond stones for that)
Keep in mind that a lot of the d2 marked knives on sites like ebay and gearbest are fake and more likely to be 3/5/8CR or 440A (not mentioned but it’s butter steel)
All above can commonly be found under 50$, though D2 goes above that too.
And now we’re left with the “super steels” and that’s just too much to sum up but many consider M390 (bohler) the “best” steel
As for the steel victornox uses, it’s similar to 8cr but more rust resistant.
Disassemble, clean, polish washers, reassemble, smooth as glass.
Or go and buy a knife an ball bearings (I like the washers though)
Esp. the front scale had burrs on both the inside and the outside.
If it wouldn’t have the perfect size for me I’d prefer the 910+ series.
The steel dulls much quickler than the Sandvik and it needs some work to make it smooth but I like it nonetheless.
Maybe a perfect knife out of box is not for me.